How is my rust protocol?

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I have a few spots of rust (one around the antenna on the roof, one opposite side of the roof next to the windshield, and one on each side very bottom in front of the front doors). The ones on the roof seem to be pretty deep, not sure about the other two. I don't have the money for a professional repair and don't have the skill to do a full cut-and weld repair. Here is what I had in mind, let me know your thoughts.

1. Remove loose paint and a little bit of surrounding paint. Might need to use a little paint remover to remove some touch-up paint I have on their now.

2. Remove loose rust with wire brush.

3. Treat remaining rust with copious amounts of rust converter (I think I have plastikote Rust-not). Let dry.

4. Cover area including surrounding clean metal with Rust Bullet (similar to POR-15).

5. If needed fill and repaint. (Rust bullet should be similar to the correct color anyway).

My goal is to stop the rust from spreading and have the area look "okay." Not of the spots are really noticeable.

Any thoughts/recommendations?
 
That sounds about what i would do and if its just rusted metal and not holes.. sounds ok, unless there is something i dont know.

Had a car i was ready to apply bondo to it after doing the same (cut to clean metal, do the same thing to protect said metal, fill, etc.)

Great soundtrack on this one.
 
Those rust converters are largely latex (water) based,and dont seem to do much of anything.I would get a spot sandblaster and maybe treat any remaining rust with Rust Mort or Naval Jelly.
 
Originally Posted By: 45ACP
That sounds about what i would do and if its just rusted metal and not holes.. sounds ok, unless there is something i dont know.

Had a car i was ready to apply bondo to it after doing the same (cut to clean metal, do the same thing to protect said metal, fill, etc.)

Great soundtrack on this one.


Not bad..
 
I've used latex rusty metal primer and had it work very well.
An advantage of a latex primer is that the solvents used in whatever color coat you apply over it won't touch it, while I've had oil rusty metal primers lifted by the solvents in the color coat.
 
My first product is water based but I think does not contain latex. I apply it and I have black "rust" left after it dries. So there is no paint or actual primer in the product.

I noticed in the video no anti-rust compound was used, I suspect the rust will be back?
 
Originally Posted By: joaks

I have a few spots of rust (one around the antenna on the roof, one opposite side of the roof next to the windshield, and one on each side very bottom in front of the front doors). The ones on the roof seem to be pretty deep, not sure about the other two. I don't have the money for a professional repair and don't have the skill to do a full cut-and weld repair. Here is what I had in mind, let me know your thoughts.

1. Remove loose paint and a little bit of surrounding paint. Might need to use a little paint remover to remove some touch-up paint I have on their now.

2. Remove loose rust with wire brush.

3. Treat remaining rust with copious amounts of rust converter (I think I have plastikote Rust-not). Let dry.

4. Cover area including surrounding clean metal with Rust Bullet (similar to POR-15).

5. If needed fill and repaint. (Rust bullet should be similar to the correct color anyway).

My goal is to stop the rust from spreading and have the area look "okay." Not of the spots are really noticeable.

Any thoughts/recommendations?


What the chemical in your rust converter?
 
Originally Posted By: joaks
The rust converter uses 2- Butoxyethanol


The first step I normally use is phosphoric acid or naval jelly. But it turns the metal mostly black like you mention.
 
I have done lot's of non professional body work on many of my vehicles over the years and I do pretty much the same thing as in the video

*Sand and clean the rusted area
*Add EXTEND to the metal area prior to filling
*Place in screen or fiber glass matting
*Layer it in BONDO
*Sand smooth, clean, prime/paint

It usually last quite a while
 
Good luck getting a smooth finish with the latex rust converters.
You can also try Naval Jelly [phosphoric acid] and a water rinse. It will eat all the rust, and you can prime, repair and paint it normally.
 
There is no latex in the converter.
I've used phosphoric acid before (ospho) and it produced the same result I get with this stuff. I think I will need to use putty to get a nice finish.
 
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