How do you prevent startup tick after oil change?

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Just getting people's opinions on my method for doing so. I have always pulled the fuel pump/injector fuse and cranked the engine for 4 or 5 seconds after changing the oil. Then i put the fuse back in and start the car, and i've never had that first startup tick after an oil change. Any problems with doing this? I can't prefill the filter, as it mounts on a 90 degree angle.
 
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Originally Posted By: jtaylor
do you thinbk you may be describing a dry start? in that case, fill the filter with oil before you screw it on, that will fix you up.


That is what im describing. But since my filter mounts 90 degrees sideways, mounting the filter full of oil will only get me a wasted pint of oil on my driveway...
 
You can pre-fill even if its a horizontal filter, but I'm not a fan of prefilling because of how dirty new oil can be.

Holding the accelerator to the floor usually accomplishes the same thing, as it shuts off the injectors.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
You can pre-fill even if its a horizontal filter, but I'm not a fan of prefilling because of how dirty new oil can be.

Holding the accelerator to the floor usually accomplishes the same thing, as it shuts off the injectors.


how so?
 
It's designed as like a "clear flood mode" if you should happen to flood the engine, crank it with the pedal to the floor.
 
Just disconnect the ignition and crank it to pressurize the system.

I drain the engine and crank it dry to purge all the oil and get no tick afterwards, fwiw.
 
Originally Posted By: dakota99
It's designed as like a "clear flood mode" if you should happen to flood the engine, crank it with the pedal to the floor.


Not so much anymore. This was big when TBI cars were popular, but most new cars will fire up and start bouncing off the rev limiter.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: dakota99
It's designed as like a "clear flood mode" if you should happen to flood the engine, crank it with the pedal to the floor.


Not so much anymore. This was big when TBI cars were popular, but most new cars will fire up and start bouncing off the rev limiter.


Mine does not start with the pedal to the floor. I think many new cars with a drive-my-wire throttle will do the same.
 
I read in a BMW owner's manual that as soon as the car starts after an oil change to rev the engine immediately to build oil pressure. I've done it for years and it's nice to see the oil pressure light go out the instant you hit the pedal. I go no higher than 3,500 RPM or so.
 
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
You can pre-fill even if its a horizontal filter, but I'm not a fan of prefilling because of how dirty new oil can be.

Holding the accelerator to the floor usually accomplishes the same thing, as it shuts off the injectors.


how so?


Mine is same way... :/

he probably means hold filter sideways and poru in alittle with the Funnel.

I, however, use the followign Procedure when getting my Level up 100%, as yes, it WILL be a little Off at first unless you let ti circulate:

1) With Engine Hot/Warm, Drain Oil.
2) Remove Filter.
3) Put Filter on.. NOTHING in it.
4) Put in 80% of the New Oil.
5) PUT CAP BACK ON and REPLACE DIPSTICK (As you get ALL the Oil out by taking the Oil Cap off and Sipstick out, maximum "Ventilation" otherwise its kind of a Vacuum... and START THE CAR, letting it run for 30 Seconds to 1 Minute.
6) Turn Car off.
7) Check Dipstick is desired, but if youve been keeping track of mow much you put in (You should..) "Top Off," Take a Trip and/or leave engine running.. Check again after youve shut the car off, waiting 1 minute (as my Jaguar says) Or 5-10 Minutes to check again.

Most Accurate reading is checking on Level Surface first thing in the morning.

Hope this helps.

As to Tick.. My car ticks when its hot.. and I too use MaxLife.

its an Unsolved Mystery, the "It Makes my ONE Valve Tick" Additive. :D

P.s.: "Holding Pedal to Floor" .. Never heard of. Car must be controlled by Computer if it does that.

Post 1
 
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
Originally Posted By: jtaylor
do you thinbk you may be describing a dry start? in that case, fill the filter with oil before you screw it on, that will fix you up.


That is what im describing. But since my filter mounts 90 degrees sideways, mounting the filter full of oil will only get me a wasted pint of oil on my driveway...


I wonder just how bad that dry start actually is for the engine.

Maybe that's part of the reason Auto Manufacturers have always recommended ONLY changing the oil filter every other oil change.
Synthetic Extended Drains obviously cause less dry starts as well.

If you can manage to get 15,000 out of a filter that's 5 Dry Starts that you saved the engine from as opposed to a 3000 mile oil/filter changer.

Wouldn't it be something if a single dry start (after filter change) caused more wear than running a synthetic out to 15,000 miles from say a previous 10,000 interval. Say like a mere 10ppm jump in Iron, Lead whatever.

If most wear occurs at start-up, then I'd say quite a bit more wear occurs at dry start-up.
 
I fill the filter and get no tick. My filter mounts vertical though. The oil light usually goes off within a couple of seconds. I get more noise on a cold start than on an oil change.

Maybe it doesn't harm anything, but I shudder at the thought of immediately revving the engine at startup. What if something is wrong and you aren't going to get oil pressure immediately? Sounds like a bad way to find that out.
 
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
Just getting people's opinions on my method for doing so. I have always pulled the fuel pump/injector fuse and cranked the engine for 4 or 5 seconds after changing the oil. Then i put the fuse back in and start the car, and i've never had that first startup tick after an oil change. Any problems with doing this? I can't prefill the filter, as it mounts on a 90 degree angle.

I thought the whole point of avoiding lifter tick is to prevent the valvetrain from running dry for a few seconds. If you crank it for a few seconds after an oil change, you are still turning the engine and the valvetrain is still running dry. Maybe you don't hear the tick over the other high-pitched noises but I can't see how you would actually be avoiding it. Am I missing something?

The only way to get rid of it is to install some kind of pre-lube system that pressurizes the oil system without requiring the engine to turn.
 
Originally Posted By: Klutch9
Originally Posted By: jtaylor
do you thinbk you may be describing a dry start? in that case, fill the filter with oil before you screw it on, that will fix you up.


That is what im describing. But since my filter mounts 90 degrees sideways, mounting the filter full of oil will only get me a wasted pint of oil on my driveway...


I actually have a filter that is 135 degrees and pointing down-sideways. I prefill it and then I turn it upside down and drain the excess into the funnel I have going into my crank case since I don't like to waste oil. The filter will hold some of the oil even if it doesn't drip out anymore usually due to the presence of the anti-drainback valve.

As long as the filter isn't completely dry, I don't have problems.
 
Don't worry about it. Your engine isn't, and that won't shorten engine life at all. One more reason for longer OCIs with good synts if you are concerned.
 
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