How do you know an Oil Pump is dying?

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Are there any signs? Or will your engine just overheat?
I ask because im not even sure how id be able to tell unless the engine just stopped running and then it wont turn, therefore seized.
 
Oil pressure problems can be from all sorts of faults.
If you have loose clearances or too thin oil, it will be the same as a pump with large clearances and not enough pressure.

How to tell? Tear it apart and measure things. Pumps are very reliable, and seldom give trouble. Bearings, on the other hand, are more prone to wear and problems.
 
Old Buick engines with front cover built in aluminium oil pump housings had lots of issues with worn out pump housings.
Usually the idiot light or gauge would stay on or the gauge didn't move for a couple of seconds after the engine was started cold.It was very noticeable,the oil pressure was lower in all RPM ranges and as posted the light would flicker or come on at hot idle.

These symptoms could also be bad bearings and usually is on most other engines,this was a common issue with some Buick engines.Most modern pumps will out live the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Oil pressure light on all the time, followed by rod knock..... This is what happened with the cavalier.

Happened to my 96 cavalier z24 too.
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Oil pressure light on all the time, followed by rod knock..... This is what happened with the cavalier.

Happened to my 96 cavalier z24 too.
That 2.4 is known for spinning bearings. The 2.2 that I had, afaik, isn't.
 
One indicator COULD be if your choice in oil filters alters your pressure OR produces lingering noises from the engine. This is NOT referring to your typical start up rattle caused by an empty filter.
 
Note that in many years of hot rodding I have had very few failures. Even under extreme conditions.

One thing I have experienced in late model vehicles is a malfunction of the oil pressure regulator which is integral in the pump. This can mimic oil pump failure.

Note that most modern cars disable spark if oil pressure drops below a certain value.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Originally Posted By: shpankey
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Oil pressure light on all the time, followed by rod knock..... This is what happened with the cavalier.

Happened to my 96 cavalier z24 too.
That 2.4 is known for spinning bearings. The 2.2 that I had, afaik, isn't.


Thought it was 2.3L OR 2.5L. Thanks, i wont buy an old Chevy now. Maybe an old Honda. Until i get my POS that i love so much down here..... 2011, folks. Im keepin it together, oh so thinly. Im trying. I am. I promise!

Oh well. Car seems to be holding up there.

So mechtech2, basically as long as our Oil pressure isnt too high, you are fine?

My gauge seems to be indicating it favorites a certain grade AND BRAND of Oil. I put in one brand of 10W-40.. and it says the same as if 20W-50 is int here. i put in Walmart's 10W-40.. and Gauge readings get perfect. Does that make sense? Can that happen? Or am i using drugs and thats not happening due to brand?

Is that saying that one brand is thinner, and perhaps lubricating better? Why do people say that gauges "Fail?"

No Oil light.. and i actually thought mine was too high once, not low.

Man i need to shut up and get this car in front of me. Im startin to lose it. I work now. Now i need something to MESS WITH non-stop. And my Beater is it.

It will look like a new car by the time im done with it. Original engine too.........

This question was a "What if" question. Would help if 1) I get the car here, and 2) I get my Camera out of pawn. Then we'd be talkin and i could report back. Yall could help me with a new Oil gauge too...
 
The thing about my 1996 Z24 Cavalier with the 2.4l "Quad Four" was that the Oil Pump went out on it and I never knew b/c there was some kind of electrical shorts going on that made all the lights on the dash always on like a Christmas tree. So even the "dummy light" couldn't save me. What's worse is, I had the engine rebuilt only to have it fail again in a few months. Then paid a friend to rebuild it again and it ran for awhile until once again, there became this HUGE rod knocking sound. So I just sold it. The guy who bought it went to rebuild it and found it had a bad oil pump and that was the problem all along.

I wish my original rebuilder's would have caught this... or the subsequent re-rebuild guy. Instead the just bought the crank kits and rebuilt them using all the old parts still available, so it was never caught.

The thing is, that engine was tough as nails. If it wasn't for that oil pump being bad (without me knowing for a great deal of time I suspect) it would still be kicking just fine now.

I spent a ton of money having it rebuilt twice. I spent a ton of money on it. I just bought Goodyear Eagles all the way around, and since it was 4 wheel independent suspension I went to AAP and bought the Monro Sensatrac complete suspension kit (almost $ 1,000) that literally you just unbolted the entire suspension and put in an all brand new everything in under the fender-well. I also replaced like everything (other than the oil pump, lol) like the battery, alternator, coil packs, plugs, catalytic converter, water pump, radiator, all hoses and belts, and numerous other things. All in an effort to get it reliable for my daughter as she was going off to college. Ended up she bought herself a new 2010 Cobalt after that Z24 kept breaking.

It sucks so bad to have so much money and time in a car for it to keep blowing and eventually to find out it was just an oil pump that was bad that none of the rebuilder's ever managed to check I guess. I loved that car too! I bought it in 1998, and though I beat on it like a red headed step child cause the car ran hard and was pretty swift, it would always just keep on keeping on. My dream, b/c the car was pretty fast stock, as most quad 4's were, was to upgrade it with a turbo someday and to basically put it in the garage to work on as a project car. This car got me back and forth to work day in day out never failing for over a decade. And I never checked the oil, always ran the oil like 8k+ miles on cheap dino that whoever had the best sale going (usually wal-mart).

I once drove it without oil even showing on the dipstick for over 20 miles to get to my brothers house, who had some oil at his house as I was too broke to buy any. It did it no problem. I know I should have taken better care of it, as I do my cars now. In fact, it's b/c I loved this car so much and I abused it and ended up losing it that I came to FINALLY learn my lesson and start taking care of my vehicles. Now I check the oil on my car daily and my wife and daughter's weekly. I learned a lot from BitoG and now I'm at the complete opposite end of the spectrum and am overly anal about preventative maintenance and most especially the oil's.

One day, I hope to buy a very well taken care of 1996 Z24 and pull it in the garage and tear it all down to the bones and slowly, over time, build it all back up to perfection. Rebuild the motor with some nice quality aftermarket parts (nothing overly powerful, think more of high quality, long lasting, better MPG's and more power). I'd love to see what a true 2.4l Quad Four engine could do when built and turbocharged, as the stock engines are quite fast already! I suppose I would need to lower the compression so I could run higher PSI on the Turbo but I'd imagine it would be quite quick!
 
Luckily my 2.4L with 200k on it shows no signs of low oil pressure or loose bearings.

Lots of these engines were planted in a vast array of GM cars. You're bound to see some failures.


I had an old SHO that would light the oil pressure idiot light at hot idle with Mobil 1. A switch to Castrol GTX fixed that, and never saw that light during operation again. I stuck with GTX until the car was totalled many hard miles later.

Same grade of oil.
 
if the oil pump is a little weak, dont drain the oil then go eat lunch. it will loose the prime. happened to my dad. the fix is to spin the oil pump realy fast like 3200 rpm.
 
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