How Do YOU Flush Your System?

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One thing I found out is no matter what you do, you end up introducing a lot of air into the system. After I'm finished with a hot, freshly filled cooling system and park it overnight, the next morning the coolant tank is usually very low. I'll then top it off with fresh concentrate mixed 50% with distilled water. In a week or so sometimes I'll have to add a bit more before it stabilizes.
 
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It's hard to recommend using Concentrate when it's not readily available. That's why I suggest doing a drain & fill twice with 50/50.
For many AF types, concentrate is readily available and always preferable for both price and the option of topic system flush if desired. As for d&f 2x with premix, if done after distilled flush, still might not get one to a 50% concentration. AF tester should be used to confirm.

I once had to do multiple Honda Type 2 premix d&fs after Honda stealer used original green AF with head gasket replacement. Iirc it took at least three rad d&fs. Confirmed concentration with inexpensive Chaslyn 5 ball AF tester.
 
Who needs a flush these days with silicate free coolant?

I guess the whole European distaste for phosphates has something to do with the typical hard water that's common in Europe. However, a lot of it is premix now, so why can't they just go to phosphates? I understand that phosphates work extremely well because they reform a protective barrier quickly, even with air in the system.

I've done less than ideal coolant changes, but I figure it's better than nothing and maybe I'll do the next one fairly quickly.
 
Premix works in Japan which is why japanese p-oats are typically premix, but it does not work in northern europe and northern north America due to colder weather requiring better than 50/50 freeze protection.
 
Originally Posted by Kage860
Premix works in Japan which is why japanese p-oats are typically premix, but it does not work in northern europe and northern north America due to colder weather requiring better than 50/50 freeze protection.
Toyota claims the Canadian version of its SLLC pink p-hoat pre-mix has a lower freezing point than the US 50-50 version, although not by much.
 
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Originally Posted by y_p_w
Who needs a flush these days with silicate free coolant?

I guess the whole European distaste for phosphates has something to do with the typical hard water that's common in Europe. However, a lot of it is premix now, so why can't they just go to phosphates? I understand that phosphates work extremely well because they reform a protective barrier quickly, even with air in the system.

I've done less than ideal coolant changes, but I figure it's better than nothing and maybe I'll do the next one fairly quickly.


Most European manufacturers agree that Silicates work better than Phosphates for modern engines which are mostly made from Alu ( i agree ) , VW, MB, Peugeot, MAN Trucks all use Silicate HOAT coolants.
 
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The only reason a premix AF could claim a lower than -34F freezing point is because it has a greater than 50% AF (50/50) concentration. Mazda FL 22 is an example, comes as a 55/45 premix. Also in places like Canada, Asian (phoat) AFs like Honda Type 2 and Nissan LL are available as a concentrate. Comes in quarts and not cheap. It's designed to take the place of 'some' of the premix, lowering freezing point. Bernardi Parts advertises it.

Beyond convenience, there's little doubt the profit from premix being half water is greater than using an equivalent service interval concentrate and distilled water.

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Most European manufacturers agree that Silicates work better than Phosphates for modern engines....
Apparently the Asian vehicle manufacturers see it differently. And judging from results, seems Asian PHoats work just fine in their intended/spec'd applications. The main reason I've seen given ( Motor Magazine) for Euros eschewing phosphated OAT use is because of the hard water found there.
 
I drain and fill yearly with the same coolant, removing the puke tank and washing it out then topping it off.
In a Chrysler T&C, thats almost 2 gallons a year. System looks clean, coolant tests good on a simple bulb tester.
My old 6.0 Powerstroke was a different story. That got a drain, and a tee temporarily installed in a heater hose. I let that thing run a long time with the garden hose hooked up. Then a Restore treatment, Restore, then more flushing. Then 3x distilled water fill-run-drain sequences, then Rotella Ultra ELC.
 
If its real bad I do a couple drain and fills with tap water, letting the coolant hit operating temp after each fill. Once it come out clear i put the 100% coolant into the radiator using half the system capacity, then top up with tap water. The tap water where I am is soft water. If i'm doing maintenance i refill with 50/50.
 
I would start by finding out how to drain the block. Simply draining the radiator and adding water as well as a flush chemical isn't good IMO.

1. Drain the block and radiator.
2. Refill with 2 lbs of citric acid crystals and water.
3. Run until hot and the thermostat opens.
3. Drain everything.
4. Refill with straight water and run until hot.
5. Drain.
6. Refill with proper coolant/ water mixture for your climate.
 
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If it's OEM fill and you're replacing like with like and there's no sign of neglect, a simple drain and fill will do. If not, I do the citric acid flush and do as through of a job flushing out as I can.
 
Originally Posted by nthach
If it's OEM fill and you're replacing like with like and there's no sign of neglect, a simple drain and fill will do. If not, I do the citric acid flush and do as through of a job flushing out as I can.

thumbsup2.gif
 
I spill / fill the radiator at 1/2 the interval the manufacturer calls for that way the system always has freshish coolant. No flushing.
Santa Fe of mine lasted just fine with all original cooling system parts at 300K miles (535K KM)
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
I spill / fill the radiator at 1/2 the interval the manufacturer calls for that way the system always has freshish coolant. No flushing.
Santa Fe of mine lasted just fine with all original cooling system parts at 300K miles (535K KM)

thumbsup2.gif
31+ years of a similar method to my E-150 all original cooling system parts, no corrosion. That method appears to work just fine, and it's easy.
wink.gif
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
I spill / fill the radiator at 1/2 the interval the manufacturer calls for that way the system always has freshish coolant. No flushing.
Santa Fe of mine lasted just fine with all original cooling system parts at 300K miles (535K KM)


I agree that is probably the best way to do it.
 
My local indy shop charges about 30 dollars to replace coolant under vacuum. I supply the OEM style coolant, and its a very quick process.

Maybe 5 minutes to suck out the old coolant and exchange it with new, and zero air bubbles.

This is the only way I will do it again.
 
Originally Posted by JustinH
My local indy shop charges about 30 dollars to replace coolant under vacuum. I supply the OEM style coolant, and its a very quick process.

Maybe 5 minutes to suck out the old coolant and exchange it with new, and zero air bubbles.

This is the only way I will do it again.

and some newer fords(likely including the one i just bought) this is the only way to do it without introducing air.
they have some kind of weird reverse flow system or something...
 
I eat taco bell.

In all seriousness I prefer drain and fill. if you dont let it get crusty it works and is ez mode.
 
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