How Do I Stop Brake Squealing?

[SR77]

I have a 1996 Ford Explorer 5.0L AWD which got new brakes(twice because the first set of pads squealed bad) last fall. They were noise free for a few months and now they are squealing and I am not sure how to stop it. They squeal when i first apply the brake pedal only. Once I am on the brakes for a stop they are silent. Only happens when pedal is first applied. What is causing this and how do i fix it? I don't think its the pad material because I have the quiet (Soft) pads and plus it only happens when first applied. Will the brake quiet stuff in a tube or can that you put on the back of the pads work? One thing i can't stand is brake noise and I want to try to fix this myself.

thanks for the help

 

[ZJ JIM 96]

I always use anti-squeal compound on the back of pads and have never once had any squealing (knock on wood, since I just put some new ceramics on).

 

[Quest]

In addition to anti-squeal compound on the backing of the pads, pad friction materials, anti-squeal spray on the rotors, one thing that you may consider looking into is the "trueness" of your rotor. Believe it or not: if your rotor is about 30~100thou out of true, during initial brake application when the friction materials hit the rotor(s), the friction material may begin to vibrate due to this slight uneven-ness.

Check all these and replace/machine your rotors if possible.

 

[T-Keith]

Sounds like they didn't apply the grease to the back side of the pads. You'd be amazed at how well it works.

 

[brianl703]

I fixed brake squeal on my mom's old car by finding a lightly-travelled road and doing the following: Braking hard several times from 60MPH to about 15MPH, till I started to smell the aroma of overheated brakes, then I drove it for several miles at 60MPH to cool the rotors down so as to keep them from warping, like I suspect they might if I just stopped somewhere and let them cool.

They never squealed again after that.

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

I think you had better get the pads yourself next time. Methinks someone went cheap on you.

 

[labman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by ZJ JIM 96:
I always use anti-squeal compound on the back of pads and have never once had any squealing (knock on wood, since I just put some new ceramics on).

---

Same here except for the ceramics.

 

[jimbeamalki]

97 Windstar--checking ABS problem on rear(drum brakes). Always squeeked like crazy when backing out of drive. While checking problem had hubs off, cleaned and sprayed everything with brake cleaner--no more squeek.

 

[Matt_S]

Use ceramic pads next time around. There's much less metal content in them to squeal on the rotors.

 

[SR77]

thanks for the relys.

I will have to give the Brake Quiet compounds that you can get at the auto stores a try soon.

Do you think if I just took the pads out real quick to put some compound on them, that the brakes would have to be bleed again?

The brand of pads that were used are Wagners.

thanks for the help

 

[labman]

Loosen the caliper bolts and wobble the caliper around a little. Then you should be able to pull the caliper off. Goop up the pads, and let them cure for a while. You can skip that step if you buy the solid plastic shims I have seen in the past instead. If you don't break the hydraulic system, no need to bleed the brakes.

 

[SR77]

labman, thanks for the reply.

Speaking of the shims, which do you prefer, using shims or the pad compounds, or both? As the pads wear down wouldn't you need to replace the shims again?

Also what do you mean by "break" the hydraulic system? Do you mean adjusting the caliper piston to get the caliper back on, or do you mean actually having a break in the hose, etc..?

 

[n8wvi]

Why would you need to bleed the system if you're just replacing the pads? I think what labman means by 'break' is 'open'. There's no need to open the hydraulic system if you're just replacing the pads, and therefor no need to bleed.

Perhaps you've been under the impression that you need to open the bleeder screw to push the piston back in?

Dave

 

[Schmoe]

Anybody have this same sort of problem on an 02 Accord?

 

[rpn453]

Permatex "Disc Brake Quiet" on the back of the pads was a good $5 fix for the horrible squealing my Mazda3 came with.

 

[labman]

Thanks Nv8wi. I have seen the shims advertised, but never tried them. If you aren't putting new, thicker pads back in, you shouldn't need to retract the piston very much, not needing a C-clamp or opening the bleed screw.

I have never used the bleed screw trick. You might check the manual before retracting a piston without it. It may not be good for some ABS systems.

 

[ChrisW]

i like using the crc brake grease in the tub better than the sticky goop. it lets the pad slide around rather (in otherwords, not bind) than sticking the pads to caliper-to-pad contact points and furtherting vibration (esp where the two ears of the caliper touch the outboard pads). i just a dab of the grease on all points where the caliper touches the pad and on the caliper carrier/pad carrier. i don't put the grease on the circle area where the piston meets; usu the pads i use (hawk hps) have a anti-noice pad there. I dont have any abnormal brake noise doing what i do.
but i do know from doing a lot of brakes for myself and my friends that brake pad composition has a lot more to do with noise than having that stick goop or grease on.