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Recently found a ripped ball joint boot on a recently installed ball joint. Not really sure if maybe road debris ripped it or what, but it's very irritating.
How common are torn boots on suspension components?
- Thread starter The motor guy
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Sadly, It happens. My concern are the torn CV Joint boots.
A decent quality and correctly installed ball joint boot should last at least several years. I've never had a road driven vehicle's ball joint boot rip in my entire driving life. My current vehicle is 19 years old and has unripped original ball joint boots. I'd wager your mechanic/technician caught the boot in whatever pressing device he/she was using.
If it's a greasable joint , it will last a long time if it's greased every oil change. My guess it was damaged when the ball joint was installed.
Was it a Moog greasable joint?
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Yeah. I suspect it got overgreased when installed
Probably not, Moog has had these splitting boot problems for years. The problem is Moog uses a fixed ring molded in the rubber to affix the boot to the joint, it has no spit so it needs to be pressed on. I have seen multiple boots with cuts in the rubber right above where it goes on to the joint right out of the box at the parts store, the cut does not go all the way through but it is seriously weakened then when greased it splits.
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So who makes ball joints/tie rod ends besides Moog? I don't understand why so many shops always insist on using them
I use only Sankei 555 if I can find them for a particular vehicle, or on German heritage such as my BMW or my Tiguan I use Lemforder.
I gave up on Moog years ago especially the greaseable ones.
I see split boots all the time, esp the blue color lately which I think is Moog.
I'm still confused by greaseable with no specific, built-in release. Unlike a wheel bearing seal or u-joint seal, a boot typically swells with grease until something pops, pops off, or tears. So, purging old grease is not really possible.
In fact, the only time greaseable seems beneficial is once the boot has torn. Then, if you're diligent you can keep it lubed for longer than if there were no zerk (please, it's not zert).
The only ones that ever made sense were some Beck Arnleys with a "pinch nipple" that would let grease out but pinch itself shut absent internal pressure.
I'm still confused by greaseable with no specific, built-in release. Unlike a wheel bearing seal or u-joint seal, a boot typically swells with grease until something pops, pops off, or tears. So, purging old grease is not really possible.
In fact, the only time greaseable seems beneficial is once the boot has torn. Then, if you're diligent you can keep it lubed for longer than if there were no zerk (please, it's not zert).
The only ones that ever made sense were some Beck Arnleys with a "pinch nipple" that would let grease out but pinch itself shut absent internal pressure.
How old is the vehicle? Besides installation damage, I'd also wonder if it was very old stock so the boot had been breaking down while sitting on a shelf for years, especially if made in China. Too many times I've seen Chinese made rubber that seemed to prematurely break down.
When the boot on a BJ is in good condition and over-greased, excess just squirts out the top of the boot. The seal isn't designed to hold (much) pressure. That doesn't mean one should grease them until the grease has ballooned the boot and is coming out.
Greaseable is beneficial without considering lubrication problems because it uses a metal bushing that is not as easily damaged by impacts.
When the boot on a BJ is in good condition and over-greased, excess just squirts out the top of the boot. The seal isn't designed to hold (much) pressure. That doesn't mean one should grease them until the grease has ballooned the boot and is coming out.
Greaseable is beneficial without considering lubrication problems because it uses a metal bushing that is not as easily damaged by impacts.
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Hope the current Dorman ones are OK, just ordered a set from RA. Sole sealed I could find.
They advertise a little grease opening so they can't be over greased. I've had terrible luck with Moog boots either way
The Moog has a grease relief but the problem is the boot needs to be pressed on and that is where the problem is, they press it on but the cup damages the boot. I had a couple of conversations with them over this, the Euro style spiral rings are no problem. This is helpful...
https://www.moogparts.com/technical/bulletins/tech-tips/how-to-install-dust-boot-on-ball-joint.html
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My split is like in the middle of the two jelly rolls for lack of a better term. Not on the very bottom. I do believe the relief is on the bottom
Trust me, this isn't sarcasm but can you explain? "Especially the greaseable ones"?
Are there more failures in the one you can grease compared to the ones you can't?
I'm not sure that I understand. Am I missing something in your comment?
However, I must say that I do realize that MOOG isn't what they used to be!
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I'm dealing with this right now on the E350 wagon. Front CV boot. OE went for 85K miles. Replaced entire shaft (Non OE per local Indy recommendation) and now dealing it again 40k miles later. New mechanic says it's "easier" for him to replace the entire shaft than deal with a kit. GKN (OE) shaft is about $550 before labor, repair kit (new boots, etc.) is about $100. I'm ready to sell this thing ...
That’s been my experience, they fail much faster than a good non-greaseable one such as a Sankei 555, even with proper greasing.
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When has Moog not been what they used to be? Since when the 50s?