How about this oil in my 92 750 Nighthawk?

[Pete in PA]

Before JASO was a thing, I used car oil in my bikes. LOTS of different car oils. Never a clutch problem.
I don't like spending more $$ for a "motorcycle" oil that maybe is a worse oil than this.
$27 gets me 5 qts, available close for me.
This oil is NOT energy or resource conserving which just like in the past it wont hurt the clutch.
I already have a new clutch in my bike maybe caused by Rotella.
I'm NOT using any diesel oil again.

 

[Oliveoil2]

It’s what I use in my Suzuki DL650 V-Strom.

 

[Nessism1]

Rotella came to prominence in the motorcycle community because it's cheaper than motorcycle oil, plus it meets the JASO MA2 requirements. If you feel that Rotella killed your clutch, then why use a different oil that lacks a full MA2 certification?

 

[iahawk]

I watched a vid from a guy on Goldwing Docs where he said he's used that specific oil for years with great results in his Goldwings.

I'm still running Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 in my 84 Nighthawk 650. Only takes 2.5 quarts and it gets changed once each year.

 

[Ausfahrt]

My son in Florida puts Mobil 1 15w-50 in his '91 Nighthawk but it's not as hot in Pennsylvania so that is a good choice for your air/oil cooled bike.

 

[dnewton3]

The OP doesn't mention which specific Rotella product he's blaming, but frankly I'm not sure it matters.

I find little basis to blame an HDEO for a clutch failure; especially one that typically meets the MA/MA2 criteria. I used Rotella for decades in the following with never one hint of issue. Probably a total accumulation of 350k miles on these over the years:
- CB700SC (the old NightHawk S)
- FJ1100
- V65 Sabre
- PC800 Pacific Coast
- CB750 (same model as the OP; mine was red)
- XR650
- KLR650
- DR650
- GL1200 Wing
- GL1500 Wing
- GL1500 Valkyrie Interstate
- GL1800 Wing
- Victory 106/6 XCT

I'm not saying he didn't have a clutch issue. I'm saying I seriously doubt it was caused by the Rotella. As for his current quest; I cannot comment because I don't have any experience using it, only than to say it "should" be OK to use.

 

[Pete in PA]

Rotella came to prominence in the motorcycle community because it's cheaper than motorcycle oil, plus it meets the JASO MA2 requirements. If you feel that Rotella killed your clutch, then why use a different oil that lacks a full MA2 certification?

Says it meets the requirements...Not certified.
Diesel oils are branching away from being a good motorcycle oil due to changing regs for pollutants. What's their first priority...Diesel engines.
JASO came out in 98. Before that it was car oil all the way. Some bought "motorcycle oil" How good is it really for what you pay??? Id rather pay less for a better oil.
Mobil 1 is the best oil out there available anywhere.

 

[Pete in PA]

My son in Florida puts Mobil 1 15w-50 in his '91 Nighthawk but it's not as hot in Pennsylvania so that is a good choice for your air/oil cooled bike.

Believe me, we can get periods of 95F+ Here.
Im not ready for 15-50...Yet. Want to try 10-40 first. It is the reccomended weight.

 

[JavierH19]

Clutch plates fail when they burn/wear out and an oil with friction modifiers such as this pcmo 10w-40 and almost all others will do that. And long drains will cause the clutch to wear out faster from the degraded oil.

Rotella has no FM so no clutch slip though it's possible to also get no clutch slip with a pcmo containing FM on a one sump bike when you're driving it soft and easing back into it to prevent slip thus wear along with having a weaker engine. But it's best to not have an oil with FM in the clutches

You'd be best off running a 4T oil instead of this pcmo oil. I've never heard anything bad about these two good budget oil. Runs for about $6.50 a quart. I'd run 50 if it was mine but run the 40 if you prefer or a mix even. I know the valvoline is available off the shelves. I don't know what intervals you'd do but i'd limit to 3k or less even with full syn. Fresh oil is the best oil.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...-1-QT/19514362?classType=VARIANT&from=/search

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...-1-QT/16879750?classType=VARIANT&from=/search

https://www.walmart.com/ip/4-pack-C...rt/17925361710?classType=VARIANT&from=/search

https://www.walmart.com/ip/4-pack-C...ID/17903817384?classType=VARIANT&from=/search

 

[Pete in PA]

The OP doesn't mention which specific Rotella product he's blaming, but frankly I'm not sure it matters.

I find little basis to blame an HDEO for a clutch failure; especially one that typically meets the MA/MA2 criteria. I used Rotella for decades in the following with never one hint of issue. Probably a total accumulation of 350k miles on these over the years:
- CB700SC (the old NightHawk S)
- FJ1100
- V65 Sabre
- PC800 Pacific Coast
- CB750 (same model as the OP; mine was red)
- XR650
- KLR650
- DR650
- GL1200 Wing
- GL1500 Wing
- GL1500 Valkyrie Interstate
- GL1800 Wing
- Victory 106/6 XCT

I'm not saying he didn't have a clutch issue. I'm saying I seriously doubt it was caused by the Rotella. As for his current quest; I cannot comment because I don't have any experience using it, only than to say it "should" be OK to use.

Wow! lots of the same bikes.
I had a V65 sabre, (Did put a clutch in it at 65k miles, I blame the diaphragm clutch spring design of it.) Two Xr650L's, 83 650 Nighthawk,. The one bike you'd think you'd have to put a clutch in, A Blackbird, I never did. up to 80k miles with various car oils.
My current 92 750, it was the original clutch. 3+ owner bike, got it at 20k miles.
Don't really blame the oil, but it was what was in there at the time, and the previous oil change.

 

[Pete in PA]

Clutch plates fail when they burn/wear out and an oil with friction modifiers such as this pcmo 10w-40 and almost all others will do that. And long drains will cause the clutch to wear out faster from the degraded oil.

Rotella has no FM so no clutch slip though it's possible to also get no clutch slip with a pcmo containing FM on a one sump bike when you're driving it soft and easing back into it to prevent slip thus wear along with having a weaker engine. But it's best to not have an oil with FM in the clutches

You'd be best off running a 4T oil instead of this pcmo oil. I've never heard anything bad about these two good budget oil. Runs for about $6.50 a quart. I'd run 50 if it was mine but run the 40 if you prefer or a mix even. I know the valvoline is available off the shelves. I don't know what intervals you'd do but i'd limit to 3k or less even with full syn. Fresh oil is the best oil.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...-1-QT/19514362?classType=VARIANT&from=/search

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...-1-QT/16879750?classType=VARIANT&from=/search

https://www.walmart.com/ip/4-pack-C...rt/17925361710?classType=VARIANT&from=/search

https://www.walmart.com/ip/4-pack-C...ID/17903817384?classType=VARIANT&from=/search

I have run the Actevo and Valvoline MC oils. Got the notchy shifting feeling rather quickly, 1500 miles. Yes it's real. I saw that thread.
Want an oil that goes the full 4k miles, still shifts great, and is NOT $10+ a qt.

 

[JavierH19]

I have run the Actevo and Valvoline MC oils. Got the notchy shifting feeling rather quickly, 1500 miles. Yes it's real. I saw that thread.
Want an oil that goes the full 4k miles, still shifts great, and is NOT $10+ a qt.

I think the Valvoline full synthetic 4T is 9 and change so maybe give that a run.

 

[JavierH19]

I forgot quicksilver made a full syn 4t oil and it's only $31 so not bad. Maybe give it a try. Seems like amazon sells the 10w-40 jug for the same price but also carry the 15 and 20w-50 but for more.

There's also kawa, yama, honda, massimo, bel ray, and lucas in jugs around 40 or less on amazon with some being full synthetic so check those out too. I'd avoid triax and ultra1plus. They're noted as suspicious blenders and are poor quality.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quicksil.../54946621?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0

 

[Pete in PA]

I forgot quicksilver made a full syn 4t oil and it's only $31 so not bad. Maybe give it a try. Seems like amazon sells the 10w-40 jug for the same price but also carry the 15 and 20w-50 but for more.

There's also kawa, yama, honda, massimo, bel ray, and lucas in jugs around 40 or less on amazon with some being full synthetic so check those out too. I'd avoid triax and ultra1plus. They're noted as suspicious blenders and are poor quality.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quicksil.../54946621?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0

I try to avoid delivery stuff. Truly sad who is delivering Amazon lately. Don't even speak english! Show up in a POV! You got me started.

 

[RoadDukie]

Says it meets the requirements...Not certified.
Diesel oils are branching away from being a good motorcycle oil due to changing regs for pollutants. What's their first priority...Diesel engines.
JASO came out in 98. Before that it was car oil all the way. Some bought "motorcycle oil" How good is it really for what you pay??? Id rather pay less for a better oil.
Mobil 1 is the best oil out there available anywhere.

You keep calling it "Diesel oil", yet Rotella is Certified as CK for diesel, and SN for gasoline, as well as meeting MA2 requirements. I too have a long list of many different bikes that ran well with Rotella over decades. Even before Rotella advertised the MA2 spec.

 

[JavierH19]

I try to avoid delivery stuff. Truly sad who is delivering Amazon lately. Don't even speak english! Show up in a POV! You got me started.

I wonder if it's area dependent. I've only had one amazon package not be delivered by an amazon branded truck. All other times it's the big gray amazon trucks sometimes those new rivians. I imagine amazon is underinvested in some areas and amazon tricks people into delivering for them but from what i've heard most of these uber for delivery type deals are not worth doing and most people have given up on it.

 

[Pete in PA]

I think the Valvoline full synthetic 4T is 9 and change so maybe give that a run.

Wish they'd sell this in a 5 qt. jug, be cheaper. It's right at $10 a quart right now.

 

[thastinger]

Moly is what kills wet clutches. It is subjective, but it seems that oils with a moly content under 60 PPM don't damage the wet clutch fibers.

 

[Pete in PA]

Moly is what kills wet clutches. It is subjective, but it seems that oils with a moly content under 60 PPM don't damage the wet clutch fibers.

Moly hasn't been proven to be the elusive "friction modifyer" Nothing has.
This oil doesn't have it, whatever it is, due to no resource conserving on the API donut.

 

[thastinger]

Moly hasn't been proven to be the elusive "friction modifyer" Nothing has.
This oil doesn't have it, whatever it is, due to no resource conserving on the API donut.

There are several VOA and UOA of MA rated oils on here, I'm not going to go back through all of them but I believe, that if you do, you will find a distinct difference in the moly content of PCMO and MA rated oils.
T4 was a go to for a long time because it had high Zinc and PH levels but low moly levels...but T4 ain't what it used to be either.