Household electrical switch

[datech]

The real amount of current you can draw is determined by the smallest fuse or breaker.

Probably somebody put in a new panel and they don't make 60 A any more. You can still use it as long as there is a 60 A breaker controlling all of it.

There is a code that requires a light in the basement switchable from the top of the stairs. That might be your outlet.

Probably your best bet would be to run another circuit from the main box to a new outlet in the basement. Cost will be a chunk of 12 gauge romex, a plastic box and an outlet, and possibly another 20 A breaker in the fuse box if you want.

14 gauge romex is thinner and lighter than 12 gauge. It is suitable for basic lighting, but appliances are better served with 12 gauge which is good for 20 amps.

A space heater will run on 14 gauge but safer on 12 gauge. The 20 amp circuit would also be better for a dehumidifier or sump pump should you ever need those.

 

[supton]

Well, if you were at the top of the stairs you'd be in the kitchen. Trapdoor with a ladder to the basement. So technically you go down all of the way, then you can reach the switch. Which works well, as it's next to the door to walk outside.

Problem outlet is a ways away, actually about dead center of the basement. Went back to the heater on low setting on the new run, no issues there.

60A main breaker. If/when I do the siding it'll likely get upgraded to 200A service, assuming that it is indeed a 200A panel.

 

[datech]

The amperage of your service depends on the wire. The breaker insures that no more current more than the wire is rated for gets through.

If wiring from the pole to your house it is 60 amp wire you have to have a licensed electrician upgrade the wire.

If you have a licensed electrician enter your house he may be obligated to insure that all the electrical services in your house are up to code.

When I upgraded my house from 60 amp the electrician insisted he put in another new panel because he didn't like the brand I had put in. Then he had to upgrade the connection at the side of the house with a new pole, run a new wire from there to the panel. He did like the wires I had put inside the house to all the various circuits and he didn't modify any of them.

It wasn't exactly cheap but I guess it was worth it.

 

[supton]

From what I've read the power company will install the drop, but I have to pay for the wire. If/when I do the siding the wiring has to be tampered with, and so rather than deal with who-knows-how-old wire I'll likely have it replaced. That I plan to leave to the pros.

 

[datech]

You have to. The power has to be turned off at the pole.

Where I live a homeowner can do electrical work downstream of the panel, which can be turned off with the main breaker. Work from the pole to the entry service and the panel has to be done by a licensed electrician. The problem can be that they have a professional duty to upgrade things out of code. If you don't mess with stuff it's 'grandfathered', but once you get into upgrading it can escalate. This of course might depend on the permitting people in your location.

 

[supton]

Well, yes, wasn't planning on messing with anything related to the drop, or between the panel and the meter, even if I was allowed to do so. I don't mind the breaker on, it's pretty easy to make sure the line is dead; but I get a bit antsy around any "real" juice.

 

[Quest]

I concur with datech RE: wiring part: if you have plans on upgrading all the wirings and the breaker panels, etc. observe the high current area and have 12 gauge wiring installed instead (you can get NEMA 20-Aap receptacles installed on the wall outlet (should be called 5-20R if memory serves) to help in differentiate that from standard NEMA 5-15R).

Good luck.

Q.