Honda Z1, Mercon V, Mobile 1 Universal ATF, LubeGuard Black

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After 3 changes of Z1 in my 1998 CR-V, price went up, so I did a change with 2q of MaxLife and 1q of new M1, about 90k. Shifts were good and it was smoother. Now at 100k, I did a change w/ 3q of M1 and 4oz of LubeGard Black. I have not driven it much yet, but it shifted much quieter and ran smoother. Shifts were quicker and softer, but with more bite, less slop on kickdown. I will do this service every year 3q M1 and 3oz of LubeGard. 10oz bottle worked out perfectly.
 
AWD CRV holds 6.0 qts total, with 3.0 quarts per drain/refill.

So 3 qts M1 ATF and 3 oz Lubegard Black (50% of total volume) would be correct, though the extra ounce you added was a good idea, as you still have some "straight" M1 in the system leftover from the time you did your 2:1 Maxlife/M1 mix.

Glad to hear that it worked well.
 
Yep, I assumed the MaxLife did not need "modification" and the treat amounts worked into future change schemes. I get 3 changes worth of LubeGard for $8, not a bad investment.
 
A tire distributor around here has lots of crazy oddball products and they are always cheap. You can still buy stuff like Dupont polishes for $2 a pop. They have their share of other wierd stuff, I can't think of them all now.
 
Thanks for bringing this older thread up. I have put Mola's AutoGlide Z1 in our Odyssey trans, 2 partial drain/fill cycles so far. I have to say that it shifts quite smoothly, but I've noticed that it holds on to some gears longer than it did, and does not hold on to lockup as well. There is a high likelyhood that the itty bitty filter on the return line is so full of funk that it is an impediment to flow - I have the replacement filter and plan to replace it next weekend. Others on Odyclub.com have mentioned that shifting improved after replacing that filter. I'm also planning to add another filter (spin-on type) in-line with the return. I will complete the AutoGlide cycles when that new filter is in place and report back.

Michael
 
OK - I have changed the little filter, and done two more AutoGlide Z1 drain/fills. Should be mostly AGZ1 now.

Still having the "light lockup" conditions. And, not too surprisingly, gas mileage is down a little. This is bringin' me down.
 
Michael, leave your battery disconnected overnight.
And, make sure fluid is correctly topped off.
If that doesn't help, add a 1/2 bottle of Lubegard/Smartblend black or silver colored bottle.
 
If it's having lock-up issues of ANY type, take it to the Honda dealership to have them diagnose the problem and have it on record. Even if your unit is out-of-warranty, they've been known to replace them free-of-charge as long as the vehicle is under 100k.
 
I may take it to the dealer - after the next trip (soon) where I can monitor lockup better and the highway mileage. (This is my wife's vehicle, I only drive it occasionally.)

I'm starting to wonder if it is temperature related... I would not be surprised if the syn fluid runs cooler than Z1. I also added a trans cooler (post radiator "cooler") - so I wonder if it is cooler enough that it wonders if it is fully warmed up. I know this trans will hold on to lower gears longer and avoid lockup when cold.

Also - we bought the extended warranty (100K miles) so I'm not worried about them covering us. Thanks, folks!
 
Temperature may be the answer. I also drive our van occationally and this weekend noticed a slight lockup for the first mile or two. I just switched from Z1 to Maxlife/LG black last month. We'll see what behavior winter brings along, but I got it covered as I just bought 15 qts of Z1 just in case.
 
Hello,

This is an update to the original post.

10 months and 15,000 miles later....

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99 CRV with 4 qts Valvoline merc V + LG black: At fist drove just like oem...has recently developed nasty shifts. Doesn't like to downshift, and IF it does, it just SLAMS into gear, violently enough that I visualize torn driveline mounts. Also hangs in lockup longer lugging the motor up steep hills. Level roads still ok.

That's enough. FLUSHED with Z1. Magnet was almost perfectly clean. Very, very thin layer of debris. Immediately drove better. Will report if the return to Z1 fixes the downshift problems.

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02 2.3L Accord with 3.5 qts M1 ATF + ~3 oz LG black. Has been a wonderful driver. Still shifts BETTER than before, more positive, quicker engagement, especially when cold. HOWEVER, my winter mpg has dropped over 2 mpg, summer mpg dropped 1.5 easy. The M1 is significantly thicker (and quieter) than the Z1.

So, while I was flushing the CRV, flushed the accord. Magnet had moderate debris for the mileage, 'bout what I'd expect... I don't get carried away but will at times accelerate hard. It's back to it's "hello my rpms are a little wild" during shift transitions if moderate throttle is applied, and it's noisier (I really liked the quietness w/ M1). I ran out of Z1, need another 1.5 qt. I will add 1 qt of Z1 and .5 qt M1, NO LG. Hopefully that will bring the shifts back to being sharper w/o as much of a mpg penalty.

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Bottom Line: -Valv merc V + LG black = BAD
-M1 atf + LG black = so far: shorter shift duration,
quieter, mpg hit.

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Clarification: I mention an earlier lockup and theory of better efficiency. Wrong. After more driving and some research, I believe the 4spd AT goes into partial lockup at low speeds in 4th. Tho I can't find any honda data, there are other ATs do this. Level ground at 30-35 mph and you'll see the rpms get pulled down, but not with complete engagement. Until rpms reach ~1750 or so, it's partial. Above that and it clamps down. IF my M1+LG mix is biased for slightly more friction, then the partial lock would be a little tighter, changing driver perception of when lockup occurs. So-- I believe I was mistaken earlier, and offer an "error report" as to why.

Mike
 
Glad to hear your report. I know of a shop that uses Dexron III + LG Black on every Honda auto they rebuild and they've had 0 problems.

With that said, I did a 2001 Acura CL Type-S Automatic a few weeks ago. Used generic Dexron III and 1 oz/qt Lubegard Black. Worked fine, cured the 2-3 jerky shift. (Linear solenoid problem) The shifts, though aren't as soft as the Z1 fluid, but still relatively smooth. Time will tell how well it holds up, if the transmission even lasts that long.
 
Mike,

Thanks again for all the information. Please continue to share, I am very interested in your results. I did end up going with the Specialty Formulations Z1 replacement for my 2006 Odyssey. I am slowly phasing it in at each oil change (partial drain and refill). So far so good. We haven't noticed any changes in shift quality with about 1/3 of the SF synthetic in the transmission. But, it is only at 10K miles so I know the Z1 fluid is still early on its life.
 
OK....

End results:

'99 CRV, flushed to return to Z1, is "recovering." Shifts have returned to normal over the past couple weeks.

'02 Accord, flushed w/ Z1 and .5qt M1 ATF (no LG). still better shift quality than pure Z1, and I've recovered 1.5 mpg!!

I'm done experimenting for now, and will stick with the Z1 / Z1 "laced" with M1.

Mike
 
Originally Posted By: Michael Polutta
OK - I have changed the little filter, and done two more AutoGlide Z1 drain/fills. Should be mostly AGZ1 now.



It is a moot point now, but I always wondered how Molakule verified his Z1 compatibility? A micro-boutique blender seems unlikely to have the kind of financial resources required to do extensive performance testing of a fluid.
 
So it looks like if you have a Honda...... Stick with Z1.... Breaking Nrews.......
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