Honda EU2000i "Break-In"?

Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
133
My options on hand: T4 15W-40 T4 10W-30 T5 15W-40 T6 5W-40 Delo 5W-40 Delo !5W-40 Which should I use for break-in period? Stick with the Honda Recommended 10W-30 or go with the T4 15W-40? What would you guys use? The plan so far: 10 minutes for warm-up, with no load, eco-mode on. 2 hours 400 watts eco-mode on 2 hours 800 watts eco-mode on 2 hours 1500 watts eco-mode off Drain, the oil and refill with T5 15W-40 at 50hour intervals. Thanks for responses and recommendations.
 

rummy

Thread starter
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
133
Originally Posted By: Pajero
Let us know how you like it. Considering purchasing one. Respectfully, Pajero!
I just picked this beauty up online. Should arrive next week. They're on special for $899.00 right now, plus I used a coupon that brought it down to $879.00 To top it off they threw in a $50.00 gift card. So, it came out to $829.00 Not bad, eh? coupon: 254876 www.northerntool.com
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 1, 2016
Messages
26
Location
Alpharetta, Georgia
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
So.....what does the actual owner's manual say to do? I'd do that.
From the EU2000i owner's manual: Use SAE 10W-30 or SAE30, API Service Category SJ or later 1st change @ 20 hours or 1 month's use (whichever comes first) Future changes @ 100 hours or 6 months
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2015
Messages
3,852
Location
Slovenia EU
Use sae40 oils.....and exercise generator with infrared cooker.....because when on lower outputs (200-800W) cooker is switching the load ON/OFF....so that you will not have constant rpms when breaking it in
 
Joined
Sep 19, 2016
Messages
1,418
Location
Minnesota
Their oil recommendations are about the same as the Firman I got this summer. I hooked it up to the camper with the AC that would cycle on and off for the break in period. Firman suggested synthetic after using their included oil for initial use. It's going on a trip tomorrow powering the camper for a week and half. Good luck on the little Honda. A little care and use of stabilizer it should last a long time. I have a little Honda that's 37 years old. Man that makes me feel old.
 
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
6,638
Location
South Florida
Cheapest dino 10W30 oil you can find for the first two oil changes. I am of the opinion that it will break in slightly quicker with a regular passenger car oil than if you use a heavy duty engine oil. That's what I would do. Then 15W40 or 5W40, whatever you have on hand.
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
2,940
Location
Canada
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Cheapest dino 10W30 oil you can find for the first two oil changes. I am of the opinion that it will break in slightly quicker with a regular passenger car oil than if you use a heavy duty engine oil. That's what I would do. Then 15W40 or 5W40, whatever you have on hand.
Agree fully with the above. Any reasonable quality cheap dino oil will be suitable for break in. Variable loading is the way to do it. However, from my experience with my Yamaha EF2000is, despite a couple rigorous break in efforts, it took a full 900 hours before oil consumption became acceptable.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2016
Messages
10,102
Location
Waco, TX
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Cheapest dino 10W30 oil you can find for the first two oil changes. I am of the opinion that it will break in slightly quicker with a regular passenger car oil than if you use a heavy duty engine oil. That's what I would do. Then 15W40 or 5W40, whatever you have on hand.
EXACTLY 100% Cheap 10W-30 (at least SJ - which is actually pretty good oil) Then I'd run 15w-40 in the summer and 0W-30 in the winter.
 

rummy

Thread starter
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
133
Thanks for the feedback everybody. Pennzoil Conventional (Yellow Bottle) 10W-30 for the break-in it is. Then, I'll run Rotella T5 after that.
 

rummy

Thread starter
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
133
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Yea cheap oil, so you can scuff your piston skirt/cylinder from a tight engine. eek
Please, explain... I'm not an expert, by any means. Why isn't PYB 10W-30 a good idea? Not, looking for a (p i s s i n g) match. Searching for knowledge on the matter. What would cause piston scuffing?
 
Last edited:

CT8

Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
15,369
Location
Idaho
the oil choices are fine if the starting temps are proper but what is the break in voo doo supposed to do.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2008
Messages
1,251
Location
Colorado
What great timing on your post, OP. Tonight, UPS is delivering a WEN 1250 Inverter to my front door. I own a phenomenal 3500 watt inverter that is tremendous, but I am not getting any younger and that dude is very difficult for me to load in the back of my pickup. We purchased a 2018 Forest River Wolf Pup 18TO back in June and have done 5 camping trips and 13 nights up in the woods. Each trip, I wrestled that 90 lb generator in and out of my pickup. 13 nights and 16 days of camping and not once.....not once did we fire up the A/C, cause we usually camp at or over 9,000 feet elevation. So, I talked the wife into a smaller and lighter inverter generator.....and quieter.....51 decibels. It will run everything in our camper except the A/C. Hopeful it will handle the 750watt microwave. Soooooo I have been poking around in the garage, looking through my stash of oil and trying to decide what to use for a "break-in" oil. I assume good ole Dino is the way to go....... so here is my question. Last year I walk into AutoZone and they are clearancing Pennzoil 10w30 Marine/Premium Outboard oil. There is no starburst on the back, but they talk a lot about NMMA FC-W.....which I have not idea about. (Snagged 6 quarts at .99 cents each). Would this oil be ok for a short run.....a breakin? Question #2..... Once broke-in..... do you guys think I can run Rotella 15w40 moving forward, when the manual calls for a 10w30? I have gallons and gallons of that stuff. .........
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
2,940
Location
Canada
Originally Posted By: rummy
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Yea cheap oil, so you can scuff your piston skirt/cylinder from a tight engine. eek
Please, explain... I'm not an expert, by any means. Why isn't PYB 10W-30 a good idea? Not, looking for a (p i s s i n g) match. Searching for knowledge on the matter. What would cause piston scuffing?
Ignore it. Piston scuffing could be caused by insufficient oil in the engine or possibly fluids such as water or coolant getting into the oil of a hot engine causing steam to scrub off oil from surfaces which could result in internal damage. Unless you're revving the engine at 20000 rpm from a cold start, the chances of scuffing are exceedingly minimal as long as there's sufficient uncontaminated oil in the engine. Any decent grade oil will work just fine. I'd probably prefer to use an oil with no friction modifiers in it and wouldn't use synthetic for break in purposes. Regarding the "break in voodoo" comment. I wouldn't go as far to say it's voodoo. However, nowadays engines are built to better tolerances and are often run in by manufacturers. Chances are that break-in may not be necessary. Particularly if the manufacturer says so. Old school guys like myself prefer to carry on with tried and true break-in procedures. Might not be necessary and, in the case of my Yamaha EF2000is, appeared to have been of no particular value considering it took 900 hours for the engine to finally break in and reduce it's oil consumption.
 
Joined
Dec 31, 2016
Messages
10,102
Location
Waco, TX
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Yea cheap oil, so you can scuff your piston skirt/cylinder from a tight engine.
SERIOUSLY? Drama, much? Ignore that guy....... . Any oil meeting API "SJ" or better will be just fine.
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2015
Messages
3,852
Location
Slovenia EU
[quote=] Question #2..... Once broke-in..... do you guys think I can run Rotella 15w40 moving forward, when the manual calls for a 10w30? I have gallons and gallons of that stuff. ......... [/quote] Yes.....at least here all chinese manufactors all recommend 15w40 oil in everything... But I will stick with anything in sae40 for OPE anyway
 
Top