Honda CR-Z Oil Viscosity for Hypermiling and Track

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My brother has a 2011 Honda CR-Z that is used in two drastically different conditions. The car is hypermiled while commuting during the week and is driven "spiritedly" on weekends. Soon, the car will also be used in occasional autocross events and track days. The car has a few modifications for power including, an HKS exhaust, GE8 intake manifold, Takeda intake system, and ported and polished intake runners. All the mods combined are worth approximately 15-18 hp.

In North America, Honda recommends 0W-20 for all temperatures. Everywhere else in the world, Honda recommends 5W-30. The car has a CVT, so the engine RPM is always high while driving hard and very low while driving easy. Sport mode keeps the engine spun up for maximum engine braking and to shorten the time it takes to get to peak power. At WOT the engine is held at a constant 6,100 RPM (redline is 6,300 RPM). While hypermiling in economy mode, the engine rarely gets above 2,000 RPM.

Is 0W-20 adequate for track use? Or would it be better to switch to 5W-30? My main concerns about running an 5W-30 is that it won't be optimal for hypermiling or the stop-start function. I also wonder if it will interfere with i-VTEC as I don't know if the system was tweaked for the North American market.

The car is almost due for an oil change and is going to be driven in two short 20 minute sessions at a local road course in two weeks so any input on what viscosity oil to run is greatly appreciated.
 
Well, the thing that helps the most with both is not the oil...

it is the weight of the vehicle. I liked the way the car drove but the weight was a killer. I could stand the lack of power as my MR2 is about the same but with 500lbs less.

As for the oil, you are kinda looking for two different things. Kinda like a high-caloric diet soda. AutoX normally does not punish the oil too much but the track will, so I would just change the oil for tracks and ignore the rest.

Maybe search for a lighter 5w30 or 0w30 that does not punish you to much for a thicker weight.
 
Just use Pennzoil Platinum 0W20, this thing was designed by Honda to be mildly raced around.

If you could get Pennzoil Ultra in 0W20 would maybe be better for track use.
 
How important is 0.1mpg saving by running a 0w-20 vs the cost of a rebuilt engine in the chance of grenading during the track events?
 
Let me try to get this straight. You track a car with only 140 horsepower that weighs over 2,600 pounds?
crazy2.gif


I can't understand that. My Camry is the slowest turd on the road with 136 horsepower and more torque than that Honda. It also barely weighs more than it.

Anyways, I would use a 5w30 oil.
 
I seriously think you should try 0W20 first before you do anything. Power output from the 1.5 is fairly civilized, and the redline is low. I doubt the SOHC i-VTEC system is gonna strain the oil vs. say a RSX-S/S2000 which are equipped with a full blown DOHC high cam/high lift setup.

I'd be more worried about the CVT not holding up to the task.
 
those mods for a 16% increase in HP from the ICE?

Not believing it you have a dyno sheet?

That being said if you beat on it for prolonged periods you need to either monitor the oil temp or go up to a xw30wt for a safe viscosity margin.
(esp since the rest of the world uses 5w30 in it anyway)
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
those mods for a 16% increase in HP from the ICE?

Not believing it you have a dyno sheet?

That being said if you beat on it for prolonged periods you need to either monitor the oil temp or go up to a xw30wt for a safe viscosity margin.
(esp since the rest of the world uses 5w30 in it anyway)


It's very possible with this motor since Honda didn't extract every last bit of power from the 1.5 that makes 111hp, that's 74hp/liter.

intake 4~5hp (AEM or K&N can produce this)
manifold 3~4 hp
exhaust 7~8 hp, more if catless
port ad polish 5 hp

Not out of reach actually.

T1RS51ZF1dyno.jpg
 
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Redline 5W20...both uses.

You don't need a 0W for the typical conditions in your state.

You'll lose an imperceptible amount of mileage over a Japanese style 0W20, and have a bit better top end protection.
 
Originally Posted By: Leonardo629
Originally Posted By: Rand
those mods for a 16% increase in HP from the ICE?

Not believing it you have a dyno sheet?

That being said if you beat on it for prolonged periods you need to either monitor the oil temp or go up to a xw30wt for a safe viscosity margin.
(esp since the rest of the world uses 5w30 in it anyway)


It's very possible with this motor since Honda didn't extract every last bit of power from the 1.5 that makes 111hp, that's 74hp/liter.

intake 4~5hp (AEM or K&N can produce this)
manifold 3~4 hp
exhaust 7~8 hp, more if catless
port ad polish 5 hp

Not out of reach actually.

Very good explanation. Thanks.

In response to Rand, the car is likely going to be dynoed in a few months which will give official numbers.
 
Originally Posted By: Leonardo629


intake 4~5hp (AEM or K&N can produce this)
manifold 3~4 hp
exhaust 7~8 hp, more if catless
port ad polish 5 hp

Not out of reach actually.



You can't really just add them up like that however we ARE talking about a pretty small overall gain so the number cited in the OP is, IMHO, at least somewhat realistic.

OP: Please update the thread with the dyno numbers when you have them, I'm interested to see them too.
 
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
How important is 0.1mpg saving by running a 0w-20 vs the cost of a rebuilt engine in the chance of grenading during the track events?

That's along the lines of what I'm thinking. I just found a screenshot of a CR-Z owners manual from Italy that says 0W-20 is preferred due to it's energy savings, but 0W-30 and 5W-30 may also be used.
For the supercharged HPD CR-Z, Honda still recommends 0W-20 even though power jumps to 197 hp combined. I find that very odd.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Let me try to get this straight. You track a car with only 140 horsepower that weighs over 2,600 pounds?
crazy2.gif


I can't understand that. My Camry is the slowest turd on the road with 136 horsepower and more torque than that Honda. It also barely weighs more than it.

Anyways, I would use a 5w30 oil.


Actually it can be good fun to drive a lesser car at 9/10 ability than a really good car at 5/10s. A good lap is a good lap, just slower.
 
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Let me try to get this straight. You track a car with only 140 horsepower that weighs over 2,600 pounds?
crazy2.gif


I can't understand that. My Camry is the slowest turd on the road with 136 horsepower and more torque than that Honda. It also barely weighs more than it.

Anyways, I would use a 5w30 oil.


Actually it can be good fun to drive a lesser car at 9/10 ability than a really good car at 5/10s. A good lap is a good lap, just slower.


+1, but the CRZ was always a bit of a miss (and with a 0-60 of about 8.5 seconds, Camrys would eat it up at the line, nor was the handling any better than the Accord). It compromised too much and was neither the hypermiler(Gen1 Insight) nor a sportscar (CRX). I think the owner with the mods would get it closer to what it should be. But like a few cars of this period, it was either too heavy for the power they gave it or that they should have offered the 2.0 K20Z3 engine as a option and ignored the hybrid for at least an Si version.
 
Redline 0w20 5w20
Mobil1 HM 5w20
Mobil1 EP 0w20
MPT 30k 0w20 5w20
Torco SR5r or SR1 0w20
Amsoil SS 0w20
Pennzoil UltraPlatinum 0w20

20 grade oils are acceptable if oil temp and PSI are monitored and OK. Both temp/PSI need accurate aftermarket gauges. Start with a stout 20 grade. But, you'll either need more oil capacity or an oil cooler if temp increases/psi drops. Oversized oil filter can assist a little.

Make sure that you maintain that CVT. Amsoil and Redline have CVTF.

No fancy throttle body? Catback or header back HKS?

Sounds like a fun project. Racing the engine to redline all weekend and then hypermiling during the week. I dig it!
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Redline 0w20 5w20
Mobil1 HM 5w20
Mobil1 EP 0w20
MPT 30k 0w20 5w20
Torco SR5r or SR1 0w20
Amsoil SS 0w20
Pennzoil UltraPlatinum 0w20

20 grade oils are acceptable if oil temp and PSI are monitored and OK. Both temp/PSI need accurate aftermarket gauges. Start with a stout 20 grade. But, you'll either need more oil capacity or an oil cooler if temp increases/psi drops. Oversized oil filter can assist a little.

Make sure that you maintain that CVT. Amsoil and Redline have CVTF.

No fancy throttle body? Catback or header back HKS?

Sounds like a fun project. Racing the engine to redline all weekend and then hypermiling during the week. I dig it!


The throttle body is still stock.
The exhaust is a cat-back HKS Silent Hi-Power.
The CVT is going to get frequent fluid changes; I'm thinking every 10,000 to 15,000 miles depending on how much track time it gets.
The car has been running 0W-20 black bottle Castrol Edge.
 
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