HONDA CBR600RRA (ABS) Brake Bleeding – Need Advice

[Ndx]

Hey everyone,

I recently acquired a 2016 CBR600RRA (ABS) 16K KMs on it, and I'm trying to catch up on maintenance. One of the tasks on my list is flushing the brake fluid, and that's where things get complicated.

I reached out to two Honda dealers for advice:

• One told me not to overthink it, saying the brake fluid isn’t that old.
• The other wasn’t familiar with the eC-ABS system and suggested a standard flush.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any independent shops nearby that specialize in Japanese sport bikes.

Research & Official Service Manual​

After spending a lot of time researching, I bought the official Honda service manual, and the brake bleeding procedure seems quite complex. I'd appreciate some guidance from anyone familiar with Honda's ABS systems.

Questions & Concerns​

1. Pressurized Bleeding Machine – The manual specifies using a pressurized bleeding system on standard system, I'm guessing that it carries over to ABS ?, and I use it on ABS modules as well.
2. No Mention of Pumping the Brakes – The manual instructs opening the bleeders on ABS modules and calipers without mentioning brake pumping. I assume this is because the system is under vacuum?, I don't think it would be smart to just open the valves.
   - or I wonder when the ABS units are activated they pump fluid ? its not clear to me.
3. Bleeding Order – The manual states that each ABS module requires a "normal bleed." Do I need to repeat the process each time, or can I simply bleed the calipers/master first and then move from module to module?

If anyone familiar with Honda’s service manual language or eC-ABS bleeding procedures can chime in, I’d really appreciate it.

Any suggestion on the vacuum bleeder - MAC, SnapON - they call in manual a "commercially available one" they all look a like.

Attached copy of manual

Manual / https://ibb.co/93285dmY

If someone has experience with this / and is confident and takes time too look this over send me a private message I will paypal you... dinner is on me

Thanks!

 

[dnewton3]

moving to motorcycle forum where it might get more "traction"

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

If you do not introduce air, you can bleed as normal. You won't get all the old fluid out of the pump but you'll get 90% of the fluid in the system. If you get air in the pump(s) is when you will have to do the pump bleed.

 

[Ndx]

If you do not introduce air, you can bleed as normal. You won't get all the old fluid out of the pump but you'll get 90% of the fluid in the system. If you get air in the pump(s) is when you will have to do the pump bleed.

Jimmy, so what you are saying just bleed master/front/back as normal and don't bother with the ABS full flush ?
I'm planning to buy https://www.mactools.ca/products/bb...Y7dLFl0xB6QRp5w0XzRhn0XIqJ9pGD0FCY1pJZ9rUuLan

but I'm not sure about 90% if solenoids are closed, this is very complex ABS system

Thank you

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

Jimmy, so what you are saying just bleed master/front/back as normal and don't bother with the ABS full flush ?
I'm planning to buy https://www.mactools.ca/products/bb...Y7dLFl0xB6QRp5w0XzRhn0XIqJ9pGD0FCY1pJZ9rUuLan

but I'm not sure about 90% if solenoids are closed, this is very complex ABS system

Thank you


View attachment 264355

Full disclosure if I have only done this on cars with ABS pumps, but many.

If you bleed as normal and don't let the master go down low enough to allow in air, you are fine.

Worst case what I know some people do is bleed it, go drive it and actually activate ABS a few times, then bleed it again. That seems like overkill to me though.

You can use a hand pump Mityvac to pull vacuum and bleed it also, but a pneumatic system is nice to have for sure.

 

[KrisZ]

Since you're not actually bleeding, do a standard brake flush with by pumping the brakes. If you can find a way to activate the ABS pumps, then you can use them instead. That's what the service manual likely calls for and hence it doesn't mention pumping the brake levers.

 

[Ndx]

Full disclosure if I have only done this on cars with ABS pumps, but many.

If you bleed as normal and don't let the master go down low enough to allow in air, you are fine.

Worst case what I know some people do is bleed it, go drive it and actually activate ABS a few times, then bleed it again. That seems like overkill to me though.

You can use a hand pump Mityvac to pull vacuum and bleed it also, but a pneumatic system is nice to have for sure.

Oh yeah, I done many cars, and bikes with "normal" ABS
I no

 

[Ndx]

In case someone might find this handy - here my simplified write up of the process 30 pages to 1......
PLEASE NOTE THAT I MAYBE MADE A MISTAKE here so verify everything

________ If someone would like to glance over this that would be great

Standard Bleeding (First Phase)

1. Remove reservoir caps, set plates, and diaphragms
2. Bleed right front caliper
3. Bleed left front caliper
4. Bleed rear caliper

ABS System Bleeding (Second Phase)

1. Activate ABS bleeding mode:
   • Connect jumper wire (Brown-Green terminals)
   • Perform pedal/lever sequence to activate mode
   • Confirm ABS indicator is blinking
2. Front ABS Bleeding:
   • Bleed front valve unit simulator side
   • Bleed front valve unit power unit side
   • Bleed front power unit line
   • Perform front one-way valve air bleeding with motor activation
   • Final bleed of front calipers
3. Rear ABS Bleeding:
   • Bleed rear valve unit simulator side
   • Bleed rear valve unit power unit side
   • Bleed rear power unit line
   • Perform rear one-way valve air bleeding with motor activation
   • Final bleed of rear caliper

Completion

1. Turn off ignition, disconnect jumper
2. Fill reservoirs with DOT 4 fluid
3. Reinstall diaphragms, set plates, caps
4. Torque all fittings to specified values
5. Perform test ride

The key points from the manual are:

• Always complete standard bleeding first
• Properly activate ABS mode before ABS bleeding
• Bleed both front calipers in the final step
• Maintain proper fluid levels throughout
• Follow torque specifications when tightening fittings

=========================================================​

Standard Bleeding (First Phase)

Reference: Page 18-4 "BRAKE FLUID DRAINING"

1. Preparation:
   • Turn handlebar until reservoir is parallel to ground (Page 18-4)
   • Remove screw [1], stopper plate [2], reservoir cap [3] (Page 18-4)
   • Remove set plate [4] and diaphragm [5] (Page 18-4)
   • Keep reservoir upright to prevent air from entering hydraulic system (Page 18-4)
2. Front Brake Standard Bleeding:
   • Connect a bleed hose to the caliper bleed valve [1] (Page 18-4)
   • Loosen the bleed valve and pump brake lever/pedal (Page 18-4)
   • Stop pumping when no more fluid flows out of bleed valve (Page 18-4)
   • Repeat for both front calipers (right caliper first, then left)
3. Rear Brake Standard Bleeding:
   • Remove the bolts [1] and right passenger step bracket [2] (Page 18-4)
   • Remove bolt [3] and reservoir [4] (Page 18-4)
   • Remove screws [5] and reservoir cap [6] (Page 18-4)
   • Remove set plate [7] and diaphragm [8] (Page 18-4)
   • Connect bleed hose to rear caliper bleed valve and perform bleeding (Page 18-4)

ABS System Bleeding (Second Phase)

Reference: Pages 18-8 through 18-11 "BRAKE FLUID FILLING/AIR BLEEDING PROCEDURE SUMMARY"

1. Activate ABS Bleeding Mode(Page 18-13):
   • Turn ignition switch OFF
   • Remove dummy connector and short Combined ABS check connector [1] terminals with jumper wire [2]
   • Connection: Brown – Green
   • Perform this sequence within five seconds: a. Turn ignition ON while applying rear brake pedal (Combined ABS indicator: ON) b. Release rear brake pedal (Combined ABS indicator: OFF) c. Reapply rear brake pedal (Combined ABS indicator: ON) d. Release rear brake pedal (Combined ABS indicator: OFF) e. Apply front brake lever
   • Verify motorcycle is now in ABS bleeding mode (indicator blinking)
2. Front ABS Bleeding(Pages 18-13 through 18-16):
   • Valve Unit Simulator Side: Bleed air from simulator side bleed valve [1] of front valve unit [2] (Page 18-13)
   • Valve Unit Power Unit Side: Bleed air from power unit side bleed valve [1] of front valve unit [2] (Page 18-14)
   • Power Unit Line: Bleed air from bleed valve [1] of power unit [2] (Page 18-20)
   • One-Way Valve Bleeding (Page 18-14): a. Apply rear brake pedal [1] b. Squeeze/hold front brake lever [2] to operate stroke simulator c. Release rear brake pedal d. Apply rear brake pedal [1] e. Release front brake lever [2]
   • Front Caliper Final Bleeding (Page 18-15): a. Connect clear bleed hose to front caliper bleed valve [1] b. Loosen front caliper bleed valve c. Apply rear brake pedal [1] to operate power unit motor d. Close caliper bleed valve after operation e. Bleed right side caliper bleed valve [1] (Page 18-16) f. Tighten caliper bleed valves to 8 N·m (0.8 kgf·m, 5.9 lbf·ft) repeat for LEFT side
3. Rear ABS Bleeding(Pages 18-25 through 18-38):
   • Valve Unit Simulator Side: Bleed air from simulator side bleed valve [1] of rear valve unit [2] (Page 18-27)
   • Valve Unit Power Unit Side: Bleed air from power unit side bleed valve [1] of rear valve unit [2] (Page 18-27)
   • Power Unit Line: Bleed air from bleed valve [1] of power unit [2] (Page 18-34)
   • One-Way Valve Bleeding (Page 18-35): a. Squeeze front brake lever [1] b. Apply/hold rear brake pedal [2] to operate stroke simulator c. Release front brake lever d. Squeeze front brake lever [1] e. Release rear brake pedal [2]
   • Rear Caliper Final Bleeding (Page 18-36): a. Connect clear bleed hose to rear caliper bleed valve [1] b. Loosen rear caliper bleed valve c. Squeeze front brake lever [1] to operate power unit motor d. Close caliper bleed valve after operation e. Perform bleeding until system is completely flushed f. Tighten caliper bleed valve to 6 N·m (0.6 kgf·m, 4.4 lbf·ft)

Completion (Pages 18-16 and 18-38)

1. Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect jumper wire [1]
2. Fill reservoirs to upper level with DOT 4 brake fluid from sealed container
3. Reinstall diaphragm and set plate
4. Install reservoir cap, stopper plate and tighten screws:
   • Front: 1.2 N·m (0.1 kgf·m, 0.9 lbf·ft)
   • Rear: 1.5 N·m (0.2 kgf·m, 1.1 lbf·ft)
5. Install removed parts in reverse order of removal
6. Perform pre-start self-diagnosis and check Combined ABS indicator
7. Test ride and verify proper Combined ABS operation

Important Notes (Page 18-7)

• Do not allow foreign material to enter system when filling reservoir
• Check fluid level often while bleeding to prevent air from being pumped into system
• If air is entering from around bleed valve threads, seal with teflon tape
• The air bleeding mode is activated by specific brake lever/pedal operation sequence
• If air bleeding process is suspended incompletely, restart from beginning

 

[Nessism1]

Sorry, I didn't study your writeup closely, but since it's based on the factory manual, I'm sure it's fine.

One of the key things is pressure bleeding. I bought a setup for my Civic, and it's way better than vacuum bleeding. All you need is a pump and a cap, for the master. Fairly cheap.

 

[Ndx]

Sorry, I didn't study your writeup closely, but since it's based on the factory manual, I'm sure it's fine.

One of the key things is pressure bleeding. I bought a setup for my Civic, and it's way better than vacuum bleeding. All you need is a pump and a cap, for the master. Fairly cheap.

I have motive bleeder .. but it will not work on rear since its square
but thank you, and I rather not put any pressure on this **** ABS lol

 

[KrisZ]

No pressure or vacuum bleeding is needed. These systems hold very little fluid in comparison to cars. Pumping the brake levers will move the fluid quite fast. Just watch out for the squirts. Hondas usually have a little metal tab over the hole to prevent this, but I would be careful anyways. That fluid can fly all over the paint.

 

[Greenbeforeblue]

I have a MC with abs. After I bleed the brakes every year I go out and engage abs front and rear 15-20 times each. Then I go back to the garage and re-bleed all three calipers and top off the master cylinders. If that's not good enough, then that day was my day.

 

[Pete in PA]

Having done multiple bikes with ABS and cars, just do a normal flush. Be VERY CERTAIN you don't let a reservoir go dry. Once done I've gone and done some ABS stops and never even went back and re- blead.