Regardless of what brake fluid you use or where you have it done, I would lean towards a 2-year interval instead of 3. Contrary to most people's understanding, it is not a permanent fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water, which causes corrosion, even boiling. The clock starts ticking on the brake fluid at the vehicle's date of manufacture (see the placard inside the driver's door for the exact month and year), even if the vehicle has been sitting parked on the dealer's lot.
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Honda Brake Fluid, Opinions Needed Please
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I'd use a premium DOT4 because it tends to absorb less moisture than any basic DOT3.
However, if only a top-off is needed, cheap DOT3 is fine.
That in mind, if you must top-off, there is something very wrong with the brake system and must be fixed ASAP.
However, if only a top-off is needed, cheap DOT3 is fine.
That in mind, if you must top-off, there is something very wrong with the brake system and must be fixed ASAP.
I think it is the opposite, DOT 3 absorbs less moisture than DOT 4. With disk brakes, the pistons extend as the pads wear, dropping the fluid level slightly. When the pads are replaced, the fluid level returns tot he the top. If there are no leaks, it is best to leave the cap on and not top up. Just leave things alone until every few pad changes when you replace the old, worn rubber parts by rebuilding or replacing the caliper. Failing such preventative maintanance eventually leads to problems.
Originally Posted By: labman
I think it is the opposite, DOT 3 absorbs less moisture than DOT 4. With disk brakes, the pistons extend as the pads wear, dropping the fluid level slightly. When the pads are replaced, the fluid level returns tot he the top. If there are no leaks, it is best to leave the cap on and not top up. Just leave things alone until every few pad changes when you replace the old, worn rubber parts by rebuilding or replacing the caliper. Failing such preventative maintanance eventually leads to problems.
According to auto books, DOT3 is supposed to absorb less moisture than DOT4.
However, my experiences have been completely different.
Here is my theory. DOT3 gets made from whatever is cheap, but more money goes into buying premium ingredients to make DOT4.
I think it is the opposite, DOT 3 absorbs less moisture than DOT 4. With disk brakes, the pistons extend as the pads wear, dropping the fluid level slightly. When the pads are replaced, the fluid level returns tot he the top. If there are no leaks, it is best to leave the cap on and not top up. Just leave things alone until every few pad changes when you replace the old, worn rubber parts by rebuilding or replacing the caliper. Failing such preventative maintanance eventually leads to problems.
According to auto books, DOT3 is supposed to absorb less moisture than DOT4.
However, my experiences have been completely different.
Here is my theory. DOT3 gets made from whatever is cheap, but more money goes into buying premium ingredients to make DOT4.
When pads are replaced, fluid should be bled, as with any brake service. They also should be bled every 2 years.
There is nothing wrong with topping off.
Use any quality name brand fluid you find in the auto parts stores that meets the spec's you require.
There is nothing wrong with topping off.
Use any quality name brand fluid you find in the auto parts stores that meets the spec's you require.
The less you mess with your brake fluid, the better. Leave well enough alone.
I have been looking at brake fluids recently, and the DOT rating isn't the only thing to look out for. Apparently, newer cars with ABS prefer a lower viscosity fluid. You'd have to check the specs of the Honda fluid to see if this is the case here, but I bet it is.
Originally Posted By: swalve
I have been looking at brake fluids recently, and the DOT rating isn't the only thing to look out for. Apparently, newer cars with ABS prefer a lower viscosity fluid. You'd have to check the specs of the Honda fluid to see if this is the case here, but I bet it is.
My TL (or glorified Accord) came with DOT3 from the factory. DOT 5.1 significantly improved ABS operation and stopping distances. I would go with 5.1 without a doubt as I mentioned earlier.
I have been looking at brake fluids recently, and the DOT rating isn't the only thing to look out for. Apparently, newer cars with ABS prefer a lower viscosity fluid. You'd have to check the specs of the Honda fluid to see if this is the case here, but I bet it is.
My TL (or glorified Accord) came with DOT3 from the factory. DOT 5.1 significantly improved ABS operation and stopping distances. I would go with 5.1 without a doubt as I mentioned earlier.
I have 3 honda's currently, dot4 fluid at your local auto store will do fine. I just suck the fluid out using a turkey baster and dump new one in.
My uncle brought in his 2003 CRV couple days ago, I had a look at the brake fluid and it was green! nasty.
The RDX's was a iced tea color (hasn't been changed for 3 years) so changed that one out with the honda dot 3 (I had a few free bottles) and used Prestone Dot 4 synthetic in the prelude and accord.
My uncle brought in his 2003 CRV couple days ago, I had a look at the brake fluid and it was green! nasty.
The RDX's was a iced tea color (hasn't been changed for 3 years) so changed that one out with the honda dot 3 (I had a few free bottles) and used Prestone Dot 4 synthetic in the prelude and accord.
Originally Posted By: labman
I think it is the opposite, DOT 3 absorbs less moisture than DOT 4. With disk brakes, the pistons extend as the pads wear, dropping the fluid level slightly. When the pads are replaced, the fluid level returns tot he the top. If there are no leaks, it is best to leave the cap on and not top up. Just leave things alone until every few pad changes when you replace the old, worn rubber parts by rebuilding or replacing the caliper. Failing such preventative maintanance eventually leads to problems.
With all due respect, this advice is VERY bad. It is NOT best to "just leave things alone." Brake fluid should be changed periodically because moisture accumulates in it over time which not only reduces braking performance but it also causes corrosion in the system. You SHOULD NOT simply leave the brake fluid in the system when you do a brake job and you most definitely SHOULD top it off when low. It's extremely convenient to change the brake fluid when you do a brake job since you will be bleeding the brakes anyway. In fact, it makes no sense to not change the brake fluid when doing a brake job. I hope nobody took this advice seriously because it is a prescription for trouble.
By the way, the above advice indicates that the person who posted it does not know the proper way to replace pads because he says that when the new pads are installed, the level in the master cylinder will go up. That shows that he is simply compressing the caliper piston without opening the bleed valve. That is a no-no. The proper procedure is to open the bleed valve which will allow the fluid in the caliper to be forced out through the bleed valve. The reason for doing it that way is that it prevents air or moisture that may have settled in the caliper piston (it does!) from being forced back into the brake lines.
I think it is the opposite, DOT 3 absorbs less moisture than DOT 4. With disk brakes, the pistons extend as the pads wear, dropping the fluid level slightly. When the pads are replaced, the fluid level returns tot he the top. If there are no leaks, it is best to leave the cap on and not top up. Just leave things alone until every few pad changes when you replace the old, worn rubber parts by rebuilding or replacing the caliper. Failing such preventative maintanance eventually leads to problems.
With all due respect, this advice is VERY bad. It is NOT best to "just leave things alone." Brake fluid should be changed periodically because moisture accumulates in it over time which not only reduces braking performance but it also causes corrosion in the system. You SHOULD NOT simply leave the brake fluid in the system when you do a brake job and you most definitely SHOULD top it off when low. It's extremely convenient to change the brake fluid when you do a brake job since you will be bleeding the brakes anyway. In fact, it makes no sense to not change the brake fluid when doing a brake job. I hope nobody took this advice seriously because it is a prescription for trouble.
By the way, the above advice indicates that the person who posted it does not know the proper way to replace pads because he says that when the new pads are installed, the level in the master cylinder will go up. That shows that he is simply compressing the caliper piston without opening the bleed valve. That is a no-no. The proper procedure is to open the bleed valve which will allow the fluid in the caliper to be forced out through the bleed valve. The reason for doing it that way is that it prevents air or moisture that may have settled in the caliper piston (it does!) from being forced back into the brake lines.
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Year old thread. Last post April 2010.
Anyhow, welcome!
Our Honda will see Honda DOT 3 fluid. No reason, just happened to be at the dealer and the price was competitive with other DOT 3 fluids.
Anyhow, welcome!
Our Honda will see Honda DOT 3 fluid. No reason, just happened to be at the dealer and the price was competitive with other DOT 3 fluids.
Welcome, ZoneIII! Don't worry about it being an old thread if you have something worthwhile to add. I like that better than creating countless new posts on the same subject, and far, far better than creating new posts on mindless topics. It shows you're reading up and thinking first. Sigh, if only everybody else did that.
I have read in some auto magazines that certain Acura cars would leak fluid from the back of the master cylinder because other fluids would not have friction modifiers in them.
I hardly ever replace master cylinders in Honda or Acura cars... I think certain Acuras got inadequate master cylinders.
I hardly ever replace master cylinders in Honda or Acura cars... I think certain Acuras got inadequate master cylinders.
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