Honda Accord AC Drain on Power

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I know many 4 cylinder cars lose power when running the AC, but the loss of power and hesitation I'm seeing is not normal at all. The car also bucks a bit when accelerating at low rpm. New plugs and no codes showing up. My friend seems to think it's a timing chain issue. Does anyone else notice anything similar with their cars?

All maintenance is up to date on this car. 1 o2 sensor has been replaced. Valve adjustment about 50k miles ago. Nothing else I can think of that would cause this.
 
150k right? Could you have a turnable but bad bearing in the AC compressor?

ICV compensation?
 
I don't know, could that also contribute to the power/hesitation/bucking issue? Once the rpms hit 2.5k + the car surges a bit. Doesn't seem normal. Have to go above 3.5k rpms to really move smoothly. The lack of power is highly annoying.
 
Did this start when the new plugs were installed?

DOUBT its a timing chain "issue".

When my corolla's a/c kicks in right as I let out the clutch I can feel it but nothing more than that. And at almost 5000 feet the Corolla does not have a ton of power.

Bill
 
No it's been like this for awhile.

It was 98F today, so that definitely played a part.
 
Could be clutch related. I'm long overdue for a MTF change. Shifting is notchy.
 
Fuel pump perhaps. Sounds like you are not getting enough fuel pressure when on the gas. Just check the pressure at the fuel rail.
 
I bet it's a heat soak/ knock retard situation. Try some high-test?

My saturn with CCOT compressor does this in spades. Until it partially cuts out due to over cooling it takes twice the torque per second at half the RPM. So idling speeds really drag the car down.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I bet it's a heat soak/ knock retard situation. Try some high-test?

My saturn with CCOT compressor does this in spades. Until it partially cuts out due to over cooling it takes twice the torque per second at half the RPM. So idling speeds really drag the car down.


Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I am getting gas tonight and it's going to be hot tomorrow.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Fuel pump perhaps. Sounds like you are not getting enough fuel pressure when on the gas. Just check the pressure at the fuel rail.


I'll keep that in mind, thanks tig.
 
My old Cavalier was really bad like this. At idle the whole car would vibrate. I always equated having it on as losing a whole cylinder. It certainly felt like it. I did have to replace the compressor due to the front seal leak those all develop, but it didnt change anything.
 
Originally Posted By: buster

All maintenance is up to date on this car. 1 o2 sensor has been replaced. Valve adjustment about 50k miles ago. Nothing else I can think of that would cause this.

My suggestions would be:
Maybe dirty, map/maf sensor, and/or throttle body.
Maybe plugged, dirty injectors? In most cases I have seen neither will necessarily throw a code but the hesitation/stumbling will be noticeable. Good luck.
 
You could remove the wire to the clutch and then turn on the AC. Tape it just to be sure it does not short to ground and fry some wires.

If the problem still occurs, I am thinking some kind of a vacuum leak, but the other suggestions may apply.

If it only occurs with the clutch wire connected, I would then think compressor bearings.
 
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
I bet it's a heat soak/ knock retard situation. Try some high-test?

My saturn with CCOT compressor does this in spades. Until it partially cuts out due to over cooling it takes twice the torque per second at half the RPM. So idling speeds really drag the car down.



I put super in and it made a huge difference. Why though? I thought using regular/plus made no difference? I filled up at Citgo this time instead of Shell. I'm really surprised using a higher grade gas made such a difference!
 
The higher octane gave the engine a little more power, which prevents it from bogging down as easy. Your not idling up under load, clean that IAC, take it off is best way. Test the TPS if it has one. Keep using techron for a few tanks. If your running thick oil its a little tighter. Make sure it has easy air flow. Maybe a diff air filter.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I bet it's a heat soak/ knock retard situation. Try some high-test?

My saturn with CCOT compressor does this in spades. Until it partially cuts out due to over cooling it takes twice the torque per second at half the RPM. So idling speeds really drag the car down.



I put super in and it made a huge difference. Why though? I thought using regular/plus made no difference? I filled up at Citgo this time instead of Shell. I'm really surprised using a higher grade gas made such a difference!


High ambient temps combined with heat from the A/C system can really work an engine. High intake temperatures as well, even if coolant temps are normal, can contribute to preignition, especially if there's any carbon buildup in the cylinders. When that preignition occurs from the load on the engine from the A/C compressor turning on, the knock sensor will pick it up and retard the ignition timing. That is likely what you're feeling.

I've had many cars that do this and premium fuel does help a lot, and even with trying fuel system cleaners and such to get the engine clean to reduce detonation, I've found in extreme heat, the car just never is the same as when it was new. Could be from 150,000 miles of junk clogging the radiator/condenser and reducing airflow creating heat soak.

You could try a few rounds of fuel system cleaning. I recommend Redline SI-1 or Techron. See if that allows you to run mid regular unleaded. Might want to take a gander at the front of the A/C condensor or remove the shroud from the radiator and see what kind of gunk is sitting on the face of the radiator.

After this tank of premium fuel is used up, try regular again, and with the A/C on, roll your windows down and see if you can hear any knocking from the engine when you're accelerating. that will tell you it's detonation/preignition that is causing the power loss.
 
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Thanks Drew!
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AC systems net a big power drain. And at low RPM, you can really feel it with a smaller engine.
The compressor itself takes power to compress, the electromagnetic clutch takes power, and the cooling fans and blower fans also take energy. Hot weather is when AC units are used, and power is down at any RPM, making it even worse.

With the AC off, is there ever any misfiring or stumbling?
[BTW - The AC is cut off on most cars when 85% or more throttle is given.]
 
Hah, same sort of symptoms here but it's been a headgasket + engine mounts, to a lesser extent.

Replacing spark plugs seem to make it happy, every time. It only lasts for a while. Maybe coolant is starting to foul the plugs(depending on entry into the CC)?

Please, update if things come back while still using Super.

Have you used any FSC regularly/recently? Maybe there is something to trying to rule out carbon causing the ignition timing to be pulled.

Heat soaked seems to be more likely. My app seemed to drive best at 60-80 degree F. Go figure. I'm definitely curious to see what replacing the HG will do. Fuel economy was starting to fall off as well.
 
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