Honda 2.0T Recommendations

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12,901
Location
Middlesex County CT
I did however use Valvoline exclusively in one engine with 7500-mile OCIs and at around 30,000 miles it had problems making pretty bad ticking noises that would go up and down with engine RPM. Since the dealership kept giving me the runaround just to avoid dealing with the issue, as they do with many others, I traded it in at 35,000 miles. I swore off Valvoline at that point.

We are supposed to believe using an API certified engine oil with mfg recommended OCI was the cause?

I wore a blue shirt for the first 50K miles driving my Dodge, then it started burning oil. I don't wear blue shirts anymore...
 
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475
Location
North Carolina
Should do his own research.......what the hell is the point of a forum if not for advice and opinions.

I gave the OP my opinion. Also told him to question everything. That is sound advice because he is getting free advice over the Internet after all.

This is the best place online for oil advice. Period.

According to who? You also wrote "period" after a period.

Grow up and offer to help....

That's very passive-aggressive of you.

The OLM for Honda considered many variables not just miles.

Like what for example? Unless it can do oil analysis, or at the very least detect fuel dilution, or at the very least detect a drop in viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature, what good is the advice of the OLM? Hyundai vehicles for example don't have an OLM. You know why? Because Hyundai knows better. You can however set your service intervals on the computer. My RAM 1500 has an OLM and right now it's telling me that I can go 10,000 miles on my oil. I'm not doing that because I know better. Oil analysis, establish trends, then I can know if I should go longer than 5000 or even that long.

We are supposed to believe using an API certified engine oil with mfg recommended OCI was the cause?

I wore a blue shirt for the first 50K miles driving my Dodge, then it started burning oil. I don't wear blue shirts anymore...

It could have been a number of factors. I didn't have time to deal with the issue, do oil analysis, try different oils, and so on. I thought the most prudent thing was to just not use Valvoline in any of our vehicles anymore. Does it sound ridiculous? Sure, it's been ten years since then. But I also don't have any reason to use Valvoline when there are so many great choices. There is nothing compelling about Valvoline for me. If you want to use it then use it. That's all I'm saying.
 
Messages
453
Location
AZ
I'll add my $.02 here, as i also have a 2019 Honda with a 2.0 turbo. i have had 4 used oil analysis done. one was valvoline 5-30, supertech 5-30, rotella gas truck 5-30, one Valvoline 0-20.
All the oils were ran to at least 7K miles some up to 10K. and there is NO difference in wear metals on the engine, no way to tell if one oil did a beter job that the next. i use bosch filters. i even change it in my driveway.
The supertech did sheer some, and was a little on the thinner side. Not enough to be an issue or cause of concern.
the sus viscosity @210F was 55.1
and the cST @100C was 8.79
not a big deal.
keep on keeping on, the honda engineers are smart people. and if they say use XX oil then do so. i use 5-30 as that what i put in all my gas engines. the toyota, ranger, civic, accord, all get 5-30.
I also live in Flagstaff.

In the end Todays oils that meet the spec will do just fine. do an occasional turbo/intake/valve cleaning with the CRC clearner and you'll be good.
 
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475
Location
North Carolina
I'll add my $.02 here, as i also have a 2019 Honda with a 2.0 turbo. i have had 4 used oil analysis done. one was valvoline 5-30, supertech 5-30, rotella gas truck 5-30, one Valvoline 0-20.
All the oils were ran to at least 7K miles some up to 10K. and there is NO difference in wear metals on the engine, no way to tell if one oil did a beter job that the next. i use bosch filters. i even change it in my driveway.
The supertech did sheer some, and was a little on the thinner side. Not enough to be an issue or cause of concern.
the sus viscosity @210F was 55.1
and the cST @100C was 8.79
not a big deal.
keep on keeping on, the honda engineers are smart people. and if they say use XX oil then do so. i use 5-30 as that what i put in all my gas engines. the toyota, ranger, civic, accord, all get 5-30.
I also live in Flagstaff.

In the end Todays oils that meet the spec will do just fine. do an occasional turbo/intake/valve cleaning with the CRC clearner and you'll be good.

Thank you so much for this post. Like many others, I'm here to learn. That's very solid information you offered up and I appreciate it. I believe I went a tad overboard on the Valvoline, and it's probably decent oil. Who knows, maybe I'll give it another try in the future. Honda has a solid reputation when it comes to engines and reliability. My experiences were based on two Hyundai 2.0T engines (2013 Santa Fe Sport & 2013 Sonata SE) that I had to handle with care. Some of those engines went boom-cabloom and I'm sorry for those Hyundai customers who had to go through that ordeal. My wife and I were lucky, the motors in our vehicles kept going until we traded them in. So I tend to be cautious when it comes to Turbo engines, they need a bit more love and care. I also have a good friend who is a mechanic and owns a Honda Accord. He uses Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 and does 5000-miles OCIs. He's got nearly 200K miles on his vehicle.

The fact that you got such close results with such different oils is proof of how well-engineered that motor is. The OP is running Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 and that is really good motor oil. The Mobil 1 SDS says that it's like 70% PAO, so it can withstand the heat. It probably doesn't need a lot of VI so it doesn't shear much.

@BSchmidt25 go to https://www.blackstone-labs.com/products/free-test-kits/ and order a free oil analysis kit. Send a sample to them on your next oil change. See how the results look, maybe post your UOA here and ask for a second opinion. If everything looks good then keep doing what you're doing. And keep doing an oil analysis once in a while to see if anything changes. That's the only way to know if what you're doing is good or not, no matter how much any of us argues here that you should do this or that.
 
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475
Location
North Carolina
This is what you posted ↓

So the OP is good to use Valvoline or filters other than Fram or Purolator, then yeah ?

↑ And that is the sentence I was referring to.

As far as me seeing the irony, well, I gave the OP some opinions and told him that he needs to research himself what he needs to do to his vehicle and not take the advice of others as bona fide. You may need to read the rest of my comments if you really care about helping @BSchmidt25. From the looks of it, you care more about taking a jab at me. It is what it is. I gave the OP all the advice I had so I cannot add anything else to this thread unless the OP provides some new information sometime in the future.
 
Messages
4,632
Location
Decatur AL USA
Thank you so much for this post. Like many others, I'm here to learn. That's very solid information you offered up and I appreciate it. I believe I went a tad overboard on the Valvoline, and it's probably decent oil. Who knows, maybe I'll give it another try in the future. Honda has a solid reputation when it comes to engines and reliability. My experiences were based on two Hyundai 2.0T engines (2013 Santa Fe Sport & 2013 Sonata SE) that I had to handle with care. Some of those engines went boom-cabloom and I'm sorry for those Hyundai customers who had to go through that ordeal. My wife and I were lucky, the motors in our vehicles kept going until we traded them in. So I tend to be cautious when it comes to Turbo engines, they need a bit more love and care. I also have a good friend who is a mechanic and owns a Honda Accord. He uses Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 and does 5000-miles OCIs. He's got nearly 200K miles on his vehicle.

The fact that you got such close results with such different oils is proof of how well-engineered that motor is. The OP is running Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 and that is really good motor oil. The Mobil 1 SDS says that it's like 70% PAO, so it can withstand the heat. It probably doesn't need a lot of VI so it doesn't shear much.

@BSchmidt25 go to https://www.blackstone-labs.com/products/free-test-kits/ and order a free oil analysis kit. Send a sample to them on your next oil change. See how the results look, maybe post your UOA here and ask for a second opinion. If everything looks good then keep doing what you're doing. And keep doing an oil analysis once in a while to see if anything changes. That's the only way to know if what you're doing is good or not, no matter how much any of us argues here that you should do this or that.

I agree with Yogi. You are using a very good 0W-20. No evidence has been presented that this engine has a need for more viscosity. I would stay with what I was doing. I suspect you could buy 2 x 5 qt Jugs at Walmart for $24.74 after the $24 in rebates from ExxonMobil so it's not like.anything is going to be cheaper.
 
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17,036
Location
Upper Midwest
And don't put Valvoline in your engine, there isn't a single good reason to do it when there is Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Castrol, QSUD and other great motor oil options available.
Yogi, posting goofy and unsubstantiated advice such as "don't put Valvoline in your engine, there isn't a single good reason to do it" is just trolling. There is no substantive technical reasoning behind that statement, if the oil meets a standard, license or approval then it is equivalent to any other oil that does the same. There have been "anti Valvoline" and "anti ExxonMobil" and "anti Castrol" trolls on here before and it only serves to degrade and discount any actual factual advice you or they might actually be offering.
 
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475
Location
North Carolina
Yogi, posting goofy and unsubstantiated advice such as "don't put Valvoline in your engine, there isn't a single good reason to do it" is just trolling. There is no substantive technical reasoning behind that statement, if the oil meets a standard, license or approval then it is equivalent to any other oil that does the same. There have been "anti Valvoline" and "anti ExxonMobil" and "anti Castrol" trolls on here before and it only serves to degrade and discount any actual factual advice you or they might actually be offering.

You're absolutely right and I retract my statement. I had a bad experience with Valvoline a decade ago, however, that shouldn't disqualify it as decent motor oil. Heck, it could have been Mobil 1 or Pennzoil, and I wonder if I would have felt the same way. I apologize, I wasn't trying to troll. And no, I am not a fanboy of any particular oil company and always like to try new things. I hope that you accept my apology.
 
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1,170
Location
ottawa
I gave the OP my opinion. Also told him to question everything. That is sound advice because he is getting free advice over the Internet after all.



According to who? You also wrote "period" after a period.



That's very passive-aggressive of you.



Like what for example? Unless it can do oil analysis, or at the very least detect fuel dilution, or at the very least detect a drop in viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature, what good is the advice of the OLM? Hyundai vehicles for example don't have an OLM. You know why? Because Hyundai knows better. You can however set your service intervals on the computer. My RAM 1500 has an OLM and right now it's telling me that I can go 10,000 miles on my oil. I'm not doing that because I know better. Oil analysis, establish trends, then I can know if I should go longer than 5000 or even that long.



It could have been a number of factors. I didn't have time to deal with the issue, do oil analysis, try different oils, and so on. I thought the most prudent thing was to just not use Valvoline in any of our vehicles anymore. Does it sound ridiculous? Sure, it's been ten years since then. But I also don't have any reason to use Valvoline when there are so many great choices. There is nothing compelling about Valvoline for me. If you want to use it then use it. That's all I'm saying.
Hyundai knows better............
Yes they have a solid reputation on engine quality.
Look into the many class action cases. Too many to even mention.
The real reason is that OLM's cost money and would increase the cost of their cars. Not to mention take funds from their dealers with the blanket 5000kms or 6 months service racket they have going here in Canada.
 
Messages
13,830
Location
Kendall, FL
My wife's Hyundai has the 2.0TGDi. Bought in 2012 and has over 200k trouble free miles. But this too is an anecdote as I know a few on here have experienced issues with their's. In said Hyundai we've run every possible oil from VWB and ST Syn 5W-30 to Edge 0/5W-40. I believewe even used Motorcraft 5W-30 blend once. But the vast majority has been Valvoline Synpower 5W-30(as it was called). No issue. It now gets M1HM or QSHM 10W-30. No leaks or any other issues, just like those two for subjective reasons. Max Life (VML) is next.
OCI = 3-4k miles.
 
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Messages
4,824
Location
Southeast
Thank you so much for this post. Like many others, I'm here to learn. That's very solid information you offered up and I appreciate it. I believe I went a tad overboard on the Valvoline, and it's probably decent oil. Who knows, maybe I'll give it another try in the future. Honda has a solid reputation when it comes to engines and reliability. My experiences were based on two Hyundai 2.0T engines (2013 Santa Fe Sport & 2013 Sonata SE) that I had to handle with care. Some of those engines went boom-cabloom and I'm sorry for those Hyundai customers who had to go through that ordeal. My wife and I were lucky, the motors in our vehicles kept going until we traded them in. So I tend to be cautious when it comes to Turbo engines, they need a bit more love and care. I also have a good friend who is a mechanic and owns a Honda Accord. He uses Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 and does 5000-miles OCIs. He's got nearly 200K miles on his vehicle.

The fact that you got such close results with such different oils is proof of how well-engineered that motor is. The OP is running Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 and that is really good motor oil. The Mobil 1 SDS says that it's like 70% PAO, so it can withstand the heat. It probably doesn't need a lot of VI so it doesn't shear much.

we used to say that Honda is really an engine company. They build cars so they have something to put their engines in. My family has had a number of them, all were good experiences, for the most part. My son has a 1.8T and it does show some fuel dilution. We just change the oil sooner than the olm fusses, and mosly use 0-20. Imo it did better once when the last quart was an extra 10-30 we had laying nearby. If it were in my driveway, it would get 5-30 or the extra quart of 10-30. We have an ecoboost in the driveway - it calls for 5-30 but lasts most of the interval more consistently by ear with a 10-30, and that’s what I intend to keep it on.

General question: if engine temps are always around 200-220, thermostatically controlled, how does a hot climate of say, 120F matter? the Thermostat and fans are still in the loop. ??

m
 
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475
Location
North Carolina
That is your feedback anymore --- NAPA this and NAPA that!!!! What gives????

It's beyond weird that he recommends NAPA so much and knows their deals so well. I don't like throwing money away, however, when it comes to our vehicles I want to buy what I like, within reason, not what's on sale. I admit I'm a cheapskate and money is tight, however no NAPA stuff for me. FRAM & Purolator, Mobil 1 & Castrol FTW. Thanks for pointing that out.
 
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11,409
Location
USA
That is your feedback anymore --- NAPA this and NAPA that!!!! What gives????

That's just what's on sale this month lol :LOL:

For cars with an OLM, I like to recommend the cheapest synthetic on sale, which just happened to be Napa synthetic this month. The sale ends today, so you won't hear that anymore for awhile :p

My point is, you don't have to spend $30 or more for quality oil. You can use SuperTech (Walmart brand), or wait for a rebate or a Black Friday sale or a clearance or something. Anything that is d1g2 should offer adequate protection for the OP's 2.0T Honda
 
Messages
4,632
Location
Decatur AL USA
I don't think the 2.0T is as prone to dilution as the 1.5T.

If you can get M1 EP 0W-20 that's 70% PAO at WalMart for less than $2.50 a quart after the rebate on 5 qt jugs I would have a tough time paying more for something else.
 
Messages
475
Location
North Carolina
I don't think the 2.0T is as prone to dilution as the 1.5T.

If you can get M1 EP 0W-20 that's 70% PAO at WalMart for less than $2.50 a quart after the rebate on 5 qt jugs I would have a tough time paying more for something else.

The reason why the Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 is made from 70% is so that Mobil 1 won't have to use a lot of viscosity improvers, and because it's the most used motor oil in GM vehicles. Yes, Mobil 1 is on very good terms with GM. And they make good oil, so that's a win-win for everyone.

However, I looked up the Honda 2.0T engine, and it's compact and the turbo easily gets heat soaked and no one, and I mean absolutely no one, including me, will stay for a few minutes and wait for the turbo to start cooling down when they get to their destination, so the oil gets cooked inside the turbo.

If I had one of these and I lived in a hot climate (and I do) my very first choice of motor oil would be Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. It's a stout oil, not too thick, but with a HT/HS of 3.5 and pour point of -48C. Porche recommends this oil for 10,000 miles / 1 year in their Macan twin-turbo engine. I know it has a larger sump but you don't need to do 10,000 in a Honda with it.

Now, if I wanted to save a buck, my second choice would be Vanilla Mobil 1 5W-30. Not the EP because it's a bit thinner.

And if I wanted to go 0W-40 then I would use Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in it because I believe that Castrol kept LSPI in mind when they formulated this oil.

Turbo engines, especially in hot climates, are much harder on oil than NA engines.

Just my two cents.
 
Messages
4,632
Location
Decatur AL USA
The reason why the Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 is made from 70% is so that Mobil 1 won't have to use a lot of viscosity improvers, and because it's the most used motor oil in GM vehicles. Yes, Mobil 1 is on very good terms with GM. And they make good oil, so that's a win-win for everyone.

However, I looked up the Honda 2.0T engine, and it's compact and the turbo easily gets heat soaked and no one, and I mean absolutely no one, including me, will stay for a few minutes and wait for the turbo to start cooling down when they get to their destination, so the oil gets cooked inside the turbo.

If I had one of these and I lived in a hot climate (and I do) my very first choice of motor oil would be Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30. It's a stout oil, not too thick, but with a HT/HS of 3.5 and pour point of -48C. Porche recommends this oil for 10,000 miles / 1 year in their Macan twin-turbo engine. I know it has a larger sump but you don't need to do 10,000 in a Honda with it.

Now, if I wanted to save a buck, my second choice would be Vanilla Mobil 1 5W-30. Not the EP because it's a bit thinner.

And if I wanted to go 0W-40 then I would use Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in it because I believe that Castrol kept LSPI in mind when they formulated this oil.

Turbo engines, especially in hot climates, are much harder on oil than NA engines.

Just my two cents.

Porsche isn't using New Life 0W-40 anymore?
 
Messages
475
Location
North Carolina
Porsche isn't using New Life 0W-40 anymore?

I have never owned a Porche and probably never will because it'll never be able to afford one. I think that they're cool cars, especially the Carrera GT. Eighteen years ago I used to play a lot of Need For Speed Porsche Unleashed 😁 so I became a fanboy. I even made a few custom vehicles for that game but that's a different story.

I like to watch from time to time some car maintenance p0rn on YouTube to see how more expensive cars are maintained, so I came across this. Watch carefully the oil he uses for this yearly oil change. It's a Porsche dealership in Chicago or nearby Chicago:

 
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