Homemade wax lubricant

[georgemiller]

I've run this brew approximately 2500 miles and works great . I've used White Lighting chain lube for years but this is as good if not better for a fraction of the cost.

https://youtu.be/D12BFIXZCes

 

[Taildragger]

Been there,,, found out that I'm really happy with this; https://blueskycycling.com/products/squi...1RoC5n8QAvD_BwE

 

[Cujet]

Great idea, thanks.

 

[Ducked]

Bob Is The Wax Guy already?

IIRC mechanical engineering concensus (certainly endorsed by Honda for motorcycles) is that oil is a better chain lubricant, despite the mess.

 

[Surestick]

Motorcycles with O-Ring chains are a bit different than bicycles.
A number of tests have shown that in dry conditions wax lubes are more efficient on bicycle transmissions.
In wet conditions a lube like Squirt (which I'm a fan of) works okay but its useful life is reduced. Even in dry conditions wax lube is good for a few hours before re-lubing is needed. Reapplication needs time to dry too so there are trade-offs.

I've heard the pros dip chains in melted grease to lube them for wet road races. I guess this gets a good, long-lasting lube into the links where it will, hopefully, stay, much like an O-Ring motorcycle chain.

Wet lubes on mountain bikes tend to attract dust and become grinding paste.

 

[sk_pete]

Is this same as a candle wax or?

 

[MRC01]

... IIRC mechanical engineering concensus (certainly endorsed by Honda for motorcycles) is that oil is a better chain lubricant, despite the mess.

... A number of tests have shown that in dry conditions wax lubes are more efficient on bicycle transmissions. ... Wet lubes on mountain bikes tend to attract dust and become grinding paste.

True. On bike chains, you can go wax or oil. Either approach can work well when done right (and of course fail when done wrong). I believe oil is better under most conditions, except when it's dry and dusty. Even then, oil can still work but wax takes a relative advantage.

That said, I also use oil on my mountain bike, and it's served me well through some of the toughest rides on the planet. Just 2 days ago I rode the Moab White Rim trail in one day, 100 miles and 8000' of climb. The chain was fine and I did not have to service it during the ride. My friend who was using wax had to stop to reapply it 3-4 times.

 

[willbur]

" My friend who was using wax had to stop to reapply it 3-4 times."

Interesting-should have lasted longer than what you were using. Probably, he did not clean his chain well before applying the wax. Wax will not adhere to the chain otherwise.

 

[Mathew_Boss]

I use Boeshield T-9. It's a wax lube licensed by Boeing but it works great on chains. I have been using it for 10 years.

 

[MRC01]

" My friend who was using wax had to stop to reapply it 3-4 times."

Interesting-should have lasted longer than what you were using. Probably, he did not clean his chain well before applying the wax. Wax will not adhere to the chain otherwise.

That's an important point with wax. To do it right, you must remove the chain from the bike and soak it in degreaser to get it fully clean & de-greased before applying wax. With oil based lube, you don't have to remove the chain from the bike to clean it. You can use a chain scrubber/cleaner like the Park Tool.

 

[Number_35]

What's the consensus on chain lubes for winter riding?

The combination of cold temperatures and salty brine during thaws seems to have defeated my best efforts.

I've concluded (but am definitely open to suggestions) that frequent application of some sort of lube, even if less than ideal, is more important than finding the perfect lube.

Thoughts?

 

[MRC01]

When it comes to winter cycling, I'm a sunshine patriot. Few things are more miserable than riding in the rain or snow, or contaminated/dirty road surfaces, let alone when it's cold. I don't mind the cold if it's dry out, I'll dress for it and enjoy the ride. So I am no expert on this question... but I'll share my experience.

Riding in rain or on contaminated roads (water, slush, dust, dirt, etc.) is very hard on the drivetrain and greatly accelerates wear of chain & sprockets. Can also accelerate wear of rims, brake pads, rotors. No matter how you lube, wet (oil) or dry (wax), you'll be cleaning and re-lubing much more often, sometimes after every ride. And if you're doing that, it doesn't matter much what kind of lube you use.

 

[zzyzzx]

I just use whatever motor oil I happen to have around.

 

[sk_pete]

Testing hot waxing. So far liking it On trekking and mtb. Cca 250 miles on mtb redoing it, or when it feels weird. Open quick joint and dump to melt wax. Hang it to dry. Very fast process.
When dirty, pressure washer enough.
Good bye oil, never again.

 

[facility1]

PJ1 chain lube blue label,,for motorcycle chain,,woks well on bicycles too

 

[MRC01]

Testing hot waxing. So far liking it On trekking and mtb. Cca 250 miles on mtb redoing it, or when it feels weird. Open quick joint and dump to melt wax. Hang it to dry. Very fast process.
When dirty, pressure washer enough.
Good bye oil, never again.

I'm considering trying wax when it comes time to replace my current chain. The question is what kind of wax?
I was thinking get a brick of paraffin wax, melt, add some paraffin oil and a little xylene. But, exact ratios?

 

[sk_pete]

mine is old yellow-ish parafin, which is soft, not brittle.
i have no idea how to do with new brittle stuff.

 

[853okg]

I use Boeshield T-9. It's a wax lube licensed by Boeing but it works great on chains. I have been using it for 10 years.

There is no dipping in paraffin that can approach Boeshield. If you completely strip a chain and hot wax it, you’ll get adequate performance…for a little while. Boeshield offers very good performance for a reasonable time. It also can be used on a not pristine chain. It’s a great product.

 

[Surestick]

I'm considering trying wax when it comes time to replace my current chain. The question is what kind of wax?
I was thinking get a brick of paraffin wax, melt, add some paraffin oil and a little xylene. But, exact ratios?

I don't think exact ratios really matter. Your best bet is probably enough solvent to completely dissolve the wax and no more since that will bring the maximum amount of wax into the chain.

 

[MRC01]

I don't think exact ratios really matter. Your best bet is probably enough solvent to completely dissolve the wax and no more since that will bring the maximum amount of wax into the chain.

So, something like:
45% solid paraffin, melted
45% liquid paraffin oil
10% xylene