I was at Walmart last night and they had 5 quart jugs of Castrol GTX Classic, High Zinc. $5 each, picked up 2. After I get home I read "not for modern cars with catalyic converters. Has high zinc and phospheros. So, can I dilute it and just use it at a 25% ratio......or what can I use this oil for?
High zinc oil
- Thread starter philipp10
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It's good for OPE and older cars with flat tappet cams, that's about all I'd use it in.
You can't use it. Send it to me right away for use in my 1960's cars. It is good stuff.
Actually, if you have a pre-cat vehicle, it will probably love that stuff. Zinc is a consumable, used to protect flat tappet cam shaft and lifters.
Actually, if you have a pre-cat vehicle, it will probably love that stuff. Zinc is a consumable, used to protect flat tappet cam shaft and lifters.
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
What are you using it in?
If a modern car doesn't use oil why can't a person use it? Seems it might be good for the modern car cam lobe / lifter failures.
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Isn't it a 1300/1200 ppm z/p amount?
Unless there is excess oil consumption, I'd use it everywhere.
If you fear the label, then run it 50:50 with API swill
Unless there is excess oil consumption, I'd use it everywhere.
If you fear the label, then run it 50:50 with API swill
I don't know.....apparently only my lawn mower or snowblower. I was thinking in my RAV4 that uses oil but that sounds worse then using in an engine that doesn't use oil.
D
Deleted member 89374
Your oil control rings are probably plugged shut, or nearly shut/crusty. Give HPL a try. Just buy the regular PCMO - the 10W-20 would be a good choice to run in summer. See if it makes a difference. Give it like 4K~5K miles at least.
Yes the oil return holes were known to plug. It's 2008 and I passed it on to my son. I honestly just plan to keep adding oil......I never have to change it now. It's too old to worry about 1000 mile a quart consumption when it will be a rust bucket in a couple more years anyway (Minnesota salt).
If you do not have an oil burner you should be fine.
Why is it so hard to just follow the manufacturers recommendations ?
Z
Z
Do a piston soak the next time you do the plugs and run the oil in whatever you want. 2 qts are not going to kill a cat.
Change the oil. You DO have to change it. I would pull the sparkplugs and try a solvent soak overnight . May improve consumption quite a bit for just and pleasant afternoons work.
I still don't understand why you were attracted to the High Zinc oil in the first place. It wasn't a cheap oil option for an oilburner. Internet jibber jabber about Zinc? They are mostly un-informed and just plain wrong,
Hope you son enjoys the vehicle. Good dad. Did he just start driving?
I was attracted to the high zinc as it was $5 for a 5 quart jug. I'll find uses for it. My son is within a month of college graduation. I passed thre car to him about 4 years ago. It's probably good for another 2-4 years.....high salt state of Minnesota.
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$5.... jug!!!!! Clearance/sales/rebate make it an excellent choice.
The higher zinc oil isn't really all that high in zinc so don't worry about it. This is why I said 50:50 and not the 25% you mentioned earlier. I'd run it full strength not even think twice about it.
Higher zddp/zdtp oils are not just for flat tappet non roller cams.
The higher zinc oil isn't really all that high in zinc so don't worry about it. This is why I said 50:50 and not the 25% you mentioned earlier. I'd run it full strength not even think twice about it.
Higher zddp/zdtp oils are not just for flat tappet non roller cams.
I'd love to find this for $5/jug. This oil would be perfect for my 2ZZ-GE slipper-pad on cam valvetrain. But.. sold out in my area.
The oil will do fine in most cars that aren't excessive oil burners but they won't benefit from the extra Zn/P quite as much.
The oil will do fine in most cars that aren't excessive oil burners but they won't benefit from the extra Zn/P quite as much.
Too many reasons to list, here are my top 2:
- Recommended oil for my 2ZZ engine is API SJ/SL. Good luck finding that. API SM/SN/SP is NOT backwards compatible. Too low on Zn/P. Learnt this the hard way when I had to replace a wiped camshaft.
- Manufacturer oil recommendations are determined by their own priorities and interests which rarely align with the owners' priorities. Maximizing fuel economy and marginally reducing emissions is often higher on the OEMs list than longevity.
The only reason you would have to worry about your catalytic converters is if you burn a lot of oil. Otherwise use it in good health.
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I've had engines that burn lots of oil, engines that had oil injection systems, and didn't worry about the catalytic converter. Only the automaker worries about the catalytic converter and their federal emissions warranties.
Surprisingly, the catalytic converter is a replaceable part, and usually cheaper than the engine that we, at one time, were trying to protect.
Surprisingly, the catalytic converter is a replaceable part, and usually cheaper than the engine that we, at one time, were trying to protect.
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Regardless of zinc, which modern engine takes 20w50?
Ha ha
The last time I saw a factory recommendation for 20w-50 was 1970 for Triumph motorcycles. This was 53 years ago, long before we heard of synthetic oil, other than the oil the Nazi’s made from coal in WW-2
Not exactly modern
At the dealership I worked at (Triumph of OKC) we used Castrol 20w-50.
Z
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