Hi, I own a 2011 Honda Fit with ABS and the service manual recommends to change the BF every 3 years. The fluid has an apple juice type of color. Can I "drain-and-fill" the master cylinder with a syringe then add new? will any air run into the lines? and is it ok to leave old(ish) fluid inside the lines or do I really have to bleed them to a 100% change?
PS. I do not own a vacuum and I lent all my tools out.
Help on 2011 Honda brake fluid change
- Thread starter mcabal25
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Hi -- you really need to flush the fluid through the lines. If you don't have a vacuum, you just need a helper. Draining and filling the master cylinder generally won't get fresh fluid into the lines...the fluid doesn't have a cyclical loop. There will likely be a little bit of mixing, but it's really best to have the lines flushed. It's probably not terribly critical on a 2011 yet.
But literally, all you need is a wrench for the bleeder screws (7mm? 10mm? I forget), a bucket, and a helper. A small length of 1/4" hose makes it less messy.
Definitely get it done correctly with a full flush. I do my CR-V and Pilot every 3 years as requested in the manual.
Suck the fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir with a turkey baster or syringe. Refill with new fluid.
Then go to each wheel and have a friend pump up, press to the floor, and hold the brake pedal while you crack the bleeders.
Should be a 10mm. I recommend using a flare nut wrench. Sure a box end will work but it can possibly slip and chew up the hex head on the bleeder. Probably low possibility of that happening on a 2011 however.
Advice: take your time between filling the reservoir and bleeding the lines.
Pouring the fluid into the reservoir entrains air bubbles. It can take a day for the smallest to come out of solution, but just waiting five minutes allows most of the bubble volume to return to the surface.
A shop can't afford the delay, but it's easy enough when you are working on your own car.
You'll usually find you don't need to even have someone pump the brakes . I usually find if you open one bleeder at a time gravity will do the rest you just have to wait a bit and if you get some hose once the bleeder is open you can push the hose on the nipple so you can direct it into a jar . You want to try and get 2-3 ounces at each bleeder , the furthest from the master cyl you want the most fluid because of the length of the lines .
Edit to add....have the cap on your master cyl loose so air can get in easy or it will restrict the flow .
Keep an eye on your brake fluid , don't run the master cyl out of it . Also, DO NOT get the fluid on your paint , wipe it off right away .
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Wow this forum is awesome so much feedback and people willing to help!! I will certainly just lift the car for bleeding then and have my gf pump the brake. I went to a Carquest today and told the man I planned on bleeding the B Fluid, he sort of panicked/belittled the idea and said not to do it because of the whole air suction problem. I'll still give it a try, thank you all!
If you do the procedures that we all mentioned, you should get no air in the system.
Key things to keep in mind:
-while bleeding, do NOT let the reservoir go dry
-make sure the bleeder screw is tightened BEFORE your GF releases the brake pedal
It seems like I will need more than a 12oz bottle of fluid, would 1 liter would be ok? or 2?
I'd get a liter , should be lots .
Good luck
If you want to be very thorough you can also bleed the calipers - open the bleed valve and squeeze in the caliper's piston to get the old fluid out. Of course you'll want to do this AFTER you bleed the brakes so fresh fluid enters the calipers.
Originally Posted By: redhat
If you do the procedures that we all mentioned, you should get no air in the system.
Key things to keep in mind:
-while bleeding, do NOT let the reservoir go dry
-make sure the bleeder screw is tightened BEFORE your GF releases the brake pedal
Quote:
I recommend using a flare nut wrench.
No, when you "crack the bleeder" it allows the old brake fluid to come out - that fluid between the master cylinder and the TOP of the caliper where the bleed valve is located. The old fluid in the caliper stays put unless you push it out via a piston squeeze.
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