Hi. the service engine light has been on since i bought it in january. Its been squeeling. Changed the belt and idler pulley. Squeeling stopped but came back about a week later. Also it started something else. When i accelerate to go up a steep hill it loses power and the idiot light that stayed on starts flashing. Is my car dying. lol help please.
help me please. 2002 ford taurus. Couple of issues
- Thread starter misswolfxd
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Originally Posted By: misswolfxd
Hi. the service engine light has been on since i bought it in january. Its been squeeling. Changed the belt and idler pulley. Squeeling stopped but came back about a week later. Also it started something else. When i accelerate to go up a steep hill it loses power and the idiot light that stayed on starts flashing. Is my car dying. lol help please.
It's an OBDII compliant vehicle, you can have the codes read or wait for it to break for good, then you'll know what's wrong. All you need is an OBDII code reader to plug into the socket under the dash.
Hi. the service engine light has been on since i bought it in january. Its been squeeling. Changed the belt and idler pulley. Squeeling stopped but came back about a week later. Also it started something else. When i accelerate to go up a steep hill it loses power and the idiot light that stayed on starts flashing. Is my car dying. lol help please.
It's an OBDII compliant vehicle, you can have the codes read or wait for it to break for good, then you'll know what's wrong. All you need is an OBDII code reader to plug into the socket under the dash.
I took it to oreilleys and they hooked it up. there machine gave a broad spectrum diagnosis. Something in the catylatic converter SYSTEM. Said it could be this could be that. That didn't help me much. To cut it short I don't have the extra $50 to have it hooked up to a mechanics machine. I'm really up for suggestions at this time. I will be having the fuel filter changed in it tonight. If lol that's a big IF it fixes it then i have the squeeling issue. I'm up for any suggestions.
Flashing check engine light can mean a cylinder misfire. That is serious and needs to be dealt with.
Get the codes read ASAP and post the exact codes here. Someone may be able to help you interpret them.
Get the codes read ASAP and post the exact codes here. Someone may be able to help you interpret them.
I don't know about Fords but if the check engine light is flashing you need to stop driving the car immediately. When the light is on solid it means there is an emissions system or engine/fuel management problem somewhere. If the light is flashing it means there is a very serious problem that will result in engine damage, engine failure or both. With a flashing CEL while climbing hills it may possibly mean there is a serious fuel or compression problem that causes the car to lose power. That is just a guess, I am no expert and definitely not a Ford guy. You can stop by most auto parts stores and they can read the check engine light code for you for free. I know Advance Auto Parts and Auto Zone will read the code for free, and I believe Midas and Aamco will also read the code for free. However, there are a few states where it is illegal for an parts store to read the CEL codes for you, I know California is one, and I believe there are a few others. If it were my car would not drive it until I got it checked out and repaired.
Hubby says its the vulcan. When we changed the belt and pulley it eventually started chirping the de
veloped into a definite squeel.
veloped into a definite squeel.
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Is the chirping on the drivers side or passenger side? If the chirping is on the drivers side DO NOT DRIVE IT and get it towed to a mechanic to have the CPS replaced. If it's chirping, it can fail. It drives the oil pump ... and when it fails, so does your engine.
What are the codes? Autozone and Advance auto will give you a list of the codes. Bring it there and have them give you the exact codes, then post them here - we'll be able to help diag a bit more.
I had an 01 Taurus ... never could get it to stop squealing from the passenger side. I replaced every pully at one point in time or another.
What are the codes? Autozone and Advance auto will give you a list of the codes. Bring it there and have them give you the exact codes, then post them here - we'll be able to help diag a bit more.
I had an 01 Taurus ... never could get it to stop squealing from the passenger side. I replaced every pully at one point in time or another.
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Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
I don't know about Fords but if the check engine light is flashing you need to stop driving the car immediately. When the light is on solid it means there is an emissions system or engine/fuel management problem somewhere. If the light is flashing it means there is a very serious problem that will result in engine damage, engine failure or both. With a flashing CEL while climbing hills it may possibly mean there is a serious fuel or compression problem that causes the car to lose power. That is just a guess, I am no expert and definitely not a Ford guy. You can stop by most auto parts stores and they can read the check engine light code for you for free. I know Advance Auto Parts and Auto Zone will read the code for free, and I believe Midas and Aamco will also read the code for free. However, there are a few states where it is illegal for an parts store to read the CEL codes for you, I know California is one, and I believe there are a few others. If it were my car would not drive it until I got it checked out and repaired.
And what twisted rational does California use to block parts stores from reading codes for people? Will they LEND you an OBDII reader?
I don't know about Fords but if the check engine light is flashing you need to stop driving the car immediately. When the light is on solid it means there is an emissions system or engine/fuel management problem somewhere. If the light is flashing it means there is a very serious problem that will result in engine damage, engine failure or both. With a flashing CEL while climbing hills it may possibly mean there is a serious fuel or compression problem that causes the car to lose power. That is just a guess, I am no expert and definitely not a Ford guy. You can stop by most auto parts stores and they can read the check engine light code for you for free. I know Advance Auto Parts and Auto Zone will read the code for free, and I believe Midas and Aamco will also read the code for free. However, there are a few states where it is illegal for an parts store to read the CEL codes for you, I know California is one, and I believe there are a few others. If it were my car would not drive it until I got it checked out and repaired.
And what twisted rational does California use to block parts stores from reading codes for people? Will they LEND you an OBDII reader?
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It sounds like the passenger side. It started out as a chirp thrn developed into a squeel. Its so loud. lol. Was reading up on alternators and from what i read that squeeling could mean bearing on the alternator gave out. I'm just not having any luck with my vehicles. Both the van and car have issues. I will get the code they gave me later tonight and post it on here for you all. I so appreciate all your help!
Come on now, you know why.... we all should've traded in our "troublesome" gas powered, earth killing death machines for an zero emissions car that runs on fairy dust and unicorn f%#$%rts,thereby negating the need for ANY replacement parts or fixits for said global death machines.
OOps ,posted it wrong this is in reply to HerrStig.
OOps ,posted it wrong this is in reply to HerrStig.
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Ca law forbids an auto parts store from reading and clearing codes. Only the car owner or a repair shop can clear codes. People were having the codes cleared then passing a smog test before the light came back on. W/o knowing thw codes we can't really help thet op. Basically shooting in the dark w/o knowing the codes.
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Ca law forbids an auto parts store from reading and clearing codes. Only the car owner or a repair shop can clear codes. People were having the codes cleared then passing a smog test before the light came back on. W/o knowing thw codes we can't really help thet op. Basically shooting in the dark w/o knowing the codes.
Can't do that in NY. If you clear the codes, the computer won't report that all sensors are online and it will instantly fail.
Ca law forbids an auto parts store from reading and clearing codes. Only the car owner or a repair shop can clear codes. People were having the codes cleared then passing a smog test before the light came back on. W/o knowing thw codes we can't really help thet op. Basically shooting in the dark w/o knowing the codes.
Can't do that in NY. If you clear the codes, the computer won't report that all sensors are online and it will instantly fail.
I had the engine light blink on my 97 camaro and it was coding for misfiring cylinders, ended up having melted plug wires that where ground themselves to my headers....anyway, i would try to avoid driving it for now if at all possible. the squealing maybe the alternator, but to me sounds more like a pulley. just like the others said, i can't make a complete judgment because i don't know what codes are actually showing....Best of luck
california doesn't want an autoparts store to read the codes for free because of a few [censored] reasons..
1) the parts guy isn't a certified technician
2) the parts guy is only guessing as to what the problem is
3) the parts guy isn't diagnosing the car
4) the CEL codes are erased and the state thinks you're hiding something
5) this all started when the big box autorepair shops got together to stop it because it takes an easy $150 of "diagnostic" fees away from them. People would go into a shop with the code and say, here's the code, figure it out. And they wouldn't be able to charge for the "code pulling".
6) auto parts stores got around it by "loaning" the scantool. CA stopped this practice a couple years after. So now a customer can buy the tool and do whatever they want, but as for returning the tool, most places say no. So it's easier to buy a scantool yourself and just keep it for future use.
7) it wasn't the state that started the stoppages.. the state actually didn't care.. but the lobbyists won!
1) the parts guy isn't a certified technician
2) the parts guy is only guessing as to what the problem is
3) the parts guy isn't diagnosing the car
4) the CEL codes are erased and the state thinks you're hiding something
5) this all started when the big box autorepair shops got together to stop it because it takes an easy $150 of "diagnostic" fees away from them. People would go into a shop with the code and say, here's the code, figure it out. And they wouldn't be able to charge for the "code pulling".
6) auto parts stores got around it by "loaning" the scantool. CA stopped this practice a couple years after. So now a customer can buy the tool and do whatever they want, but as for returning the tool, most places say no. So it's easier to buy a scantool yourself and just keep it for future use.
7) it wasn't the state that started the stoppages.. the state actually didn't care.. but the lobbyists won!
I had a 2002 Taurus a number of years ago. Couldn't get rid of that toad fast enough. I would advise the o.p. to do like wise.
The trouble code was p0420.
1)From http://www.p0420.com/
"OK, so what does a P0420 code mean anyway?
As mentioned above, the code's description is Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). OK, now tell me that again in plain English please.... let's break it down: the catalyst system being referred to is your three-way catalytic converter; so the catalytic converter is not working properly (i.e. it's not efficient). Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine which contains cylinder #1. On inline engines such as 4 & 5 cylinder engines, there is only one bank. So, to really simply things let's just say that the efficiency of the catalytic converter and/or exhaust pipe and/or O2 sensor is not so great.
There are no symptoms so why should I fix it?
Great question! A P0420 code will cause no symptoms aside from the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will illuminate. The reality is there is still something wrong and your car needs attention in order to be in excellent running condition. A poorly maintained car will run less efficiently, burn more gas, and cost you more money in the long run. Plus, if your check engine light is on for a P0420 code and you decide not to fix it, another more serious code could be triggered and you'd never know. The MIL lights up whether you have one code or ten! While I have your attention, don't forget to do oil changes as the owner's manual schedules and keep those tires inflated to the proper PSI.
So what is causing my P0420 code?
There are a number of things that could be causing this p0420 catalyst efficiency code. The most common thing is the catalytic converter itself is no longer functioning properly. The other likely thing is the rear O2 (oxygen) sensor is no longer working properly. Other things could include exhaust leaks, damaged exhaust pipes, damaged O2 sensor wiring/connectors, plugged catalytic converter, etc.
OK, so I want to diagnose things, what do I do next?
The easiest thing to do first is a visual check of things. Visually inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the catalytic converter for dents, holes, severe discoloration, and check for a rattle inside. If any of those syptoms are there, the converter likely needs replacement. Then, visually inspect the downstream O2 sensor (behind the converter). Check for broken wires, obvious faults, etc. If all that checks out, you'll want to check the operation of the O2 sensor. To do that, you'll need access to a scan tool or oscilliscope. Check that the waveform is pretty steady. If the reading fluctuates then the sensor is likely bad and will need to be replaced.
On some vehicles such as some Subaru models an ECM reflash will fix the problem. As you can see a P0420 can be caused by many things, so if you have any doubts as to whether you can fix the problem yourself, please seek the advice of a professional technician. Good luck!"
2) Also from http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420
"A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for. A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S) Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly. The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly. Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / muffler / exhaust pipe. Retarded spark timing. The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings. Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure. Cylinder misfire. Oil contamination. Possible Solutions: Some suggested steps for troubleshooting a P0420 error code include: Check for exhaust leaks at the manifold, pipes, catalytic converter. Repair as required. Use a scope to diagnose the oxygen sensor operation (Tip: The oxygen sensor in front of the catalytic converter normally has a fluctuating waveform. The waveform of the sensor behind the converter should be more steady). Inspect the downstream heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), replace if necessary Replace the catalytic converter Overall probably the biggest mistake vehicles owners make when they have a P0420 code is to simply replace an oxygen sensor (H02S). It is important to do proper diagnosis so you're not wasting money replacing parts unnecessarily. We strongly recommend that if you need to replace the catalytic converter that you replace it with an OEM unit. Second choice would be a high-quality replacement part. There are many stories in our forums where folks replaced the cat with a cheaper aftermarket one only to have the code return shortly thereafter. One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com"
-Sorry for the WALL of text
"OK, so what does a P0420 code mean anyway?
As mentioned above, the code's description is Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). OK, now tell me that again in plain English please.... let's break it down: the catalyst system being referred to is your three-way catalytic converter; so the catalytic converter is not working properly (i.e. it's not efficient). Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine which contains cylinder #1. On inline engines such as 4 & 5 cylinder engines, there is only one bank. So, to really simply things let's just say that the efficiency of the catalytic converter and/or exhaust pipe and/or O2 sensor is not so great.
There are no symptoms so why should I fix it?
Great question! A P0420 code will cause no symptoms aside from the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will illuminate. The reality is there is still something wrong and your car needs attention in order to be in excellent running condition. A poorly maintained car will run less efficiently, burn more gas, and cost you more money in the long run. Plus, if your check engine light is on for a P0420 code and you decide not to fix it, another more serious code could be triggered and you'd never know. The MIL lights up whether you have one code or ten! While I have your attention, don't forget to do oil changes as the owner's manual schedules and keep those tires inflated to the proper PSI.
So what is causing my P0420 code?
There are a number of things that could be causing this p0420 catalyst efficiency code. The most common thing is the catalytic converter itself is no longer functioning properly. The other likely thing is the rear O2 (oxygen) sensor is no longer working properly. Other things could include exhaust leaks, damaged exhaust pipes, damaged O2 sensor wiring/connectors, plugged catalytic converter, etc.
OK, so I want to diagnose things, what do I do next?
The easiest thing to do first is a visual check of things. Visually inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the catalytic converter for dents, holes, severe discoloration, and check for a rattle inside. If any of those syptoms are there, the converter likely needs replacement. Then, visually inspect the downstream O2 sensor (behind the converter). Check for broken wires, obvious faults, etc. If all that checks out, you'll want to check the operation of the O2 sensor. To do that, you'll need access to a scan tool or oscilliscope. Check that the waveform is pretty steady. If the reading fluctuates then the sensor is likely bad and will need to be replaced.
On some vehicles such as some Subaru models an ECM reflash will fix the problem. As you can see a P0420 can be caused by many things, so if you have any doubts as to whether you can fix the problem yourself, please seek the advice of a professional technician. Good luck!"
2) Also from http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420
"A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for. A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S) Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly. The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly. Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / muffler / exhaust pipe. Retarded spark timing. The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings. Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure. Cylinder misfire. Oil contamination. Possible Solutions: Some suggested steps for troubleshooting a P0420 error code include: Check for exhaust leaks at the manifold, pipes, catalytic converter. Repair as required. Use a scope to diagnose the oxygen sensor operation (Tip: The oxygen sensor in front of the catalytic converter normally has a fluctuating waveform. The waveform of the sensor behind the converter should be more steady). Inspect the downstream heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), replace if necessary Replace the catalytic converter Overall probably the biggest mistake vehicles owners make when they have a P0420 code is to simply replace an oxygen sensor (H02S). It is important to do proper diagnosis so you're not wasting money replacing parts unnecessarily. We strongly recommend that if you need to replace the catalytic converter that you replace it with an OEM unit. Second choice would be a high-quality replacement part. There are many stories in our forums where folks replaced the cat with a cheaper aftermarket one only to have the code return shortly thereafter. One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com"
-Sorry for the WALL of text
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Wow thank you. Lol. would any of that cause the squeeling too or is that something completely different?
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