hey guys, need some major help/advise here,please!!!!!!!! my rear brake line(the steel line)nuts are rusted shut, i used gunks Liquid wrench, let it set for about 30min. and then tried with my flare nut wrenchs. wouldnt budge. so i applied more spray let it sit for about 2 hrs. still nothing, so i sprayed it again, even longer then before and let it sit. i am not sure how to go about getting the nuts free from the vehicel? any suggestions? i am in a bit of a hurry, becuase we are about to get some snow this week and i would like to get this done before we get blasted with the ice maker.
HELLLP!!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter Jcraig
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If it's just brake lines, replace them. You could have bought some line, bent it up, bled it, and be driving in the time it took to let it soak.
Once rusted the way you described, there really isn't anyway around it.
Once rusted the way you described, there really isn't anyway around it.
Once those nuts are corroded into place, it can be downright impossible to get them out without destroying the line. If it was me, I'd just assume the line is going to be a casualty and cut off the line so you can get a socket on the nut. At that point, you can "gently" use an impact wrench and a small amount of heat to loosen up the nut.
It's unfortunate that the auto industry doesn't take a page out of the boating industry and just attach a couple of small zincs to the chassis to help protect the car/parts from corrosion.
It's unfortunate that the auto industry doesn't take a page out of the boating industry and just attach a couple of small zincs to the chassis to help protect the car/parts from corrosion.
well i do have the tubing and the fittings, i just need to get the nuts out,so i can replace them properly, one is rusted(the front nut) and the other is not only rusted but is also stripped(The rear Nut) the rubber hoses are still great, so i dont want to have to replace something that is still in good shape if i dont have to.
Originally Posted By: Jcraig
well i do have the tubing and the fittings, i just need to get the nuts out,so i can replace them properly, one is rusted(the front nut) and the other is not only rusted but is also stripped(The rear Nut) the rubber hoses are still great, so i dont want to have to replace something that is still in good shape if i dont have to.
If the nut is stripped, just replace the line. Use a pair of vicegrips to get it off or get one of those "easyouts" for stripped bolt heads to remove it after you've cut off the line. There's no easy way out in situations like this. Just bite the bullet and get it over with.
well i do have the tubing and the fittings, i just need to get the nuts out,so i can replace them properly, one is rusted(the front nut) and the other is not only rusted but is also stripped(The rear Nut) the rubber hoses are still great, so i dont want to have to replace something that is still in good shape if i dont have to.
If the nut is stripped, just replace the line. Use a pair of vicegrips to get it off or get one of those "easyouts" for stripped bolt heads to remove it after you've cut off the line. There's no easy way out in situations like this. Just bite the bullet and get it over with.
New rear brake pistons are very cheap these days.
Just cut off the brake lines, unbolt the old piston housings and discard, install new pistons and new brake lines, new fluid and you are good to go.
Just cut off the brake lines, unbolt the old piston housings and discard, install new pistons and new brake lines, new fluid and you are good to go.
no no i just need to know how to remove a stripped out fitting and a rusted fitting. heat would be a bad idea because of the rubber, i want to keep the good parts. i am just trying to repair my truck at this point. i do not need to melt the rubber hose in the back of the truck.
Yeah. Cut the line and use a 6 point flank drive socket.
ok, that fine on the front fitting which is rusted, but what about the rear fitting, which is the one that is not only rusted, but stripped out.
Stripped out equals vice grips action. They should be brass though so I have no idea how they would rust as brass does not rust.If the vehicle is new enough you can get an OEM replacement line if not you can send the line out to a company here in Michigan that advertises in all the magazines and they will make a perfect replacement!This way you do not need to play with after market strait line and trying to get a nice kink free bend and good splice etc.....Het would never do you any good with brass or bronze as heat anneals it makeing it softer the hot you get it and the faster you cool it the softer it get's....The only way to harden those fiting is from work hardening........
Unless you driving a Mazarati or some other exotic AutoZOne will have all the parts you need even the ruber boots and such!So really no need to try and be frugal witht he cheap parts the ones you want to save as the cheap parts kind of backwards really.
The wifes Buick yep the Buick again the first time I did brakeson it the bleeder on two of them sheared off with almost no pressure and what ever grease monkey at the dealership where my Grandmother had all the work done when she owned the car's had striped out the pins torx b or hex head and the bleeders. I had to drill out two brass bleeders then get replacements from autozone. THe HELP replacement ones wherenot made from brass they felt like chrome plated steel.
Oh and just to be clear their is no way to remove stripped out brass bleeder bolts with out destroying them to the point that they willnot be reusable. If you deforrm the end it often deforms the entire thing making future sealing an issue!
Unless you driving a Mazarati or some other exotic AutoZOne will have all the parts you need even the ruber boots and such!So really no need to try and be frugal witht he cheap parts the ones you want to save as the cheap parts kind of backwards really.
The wifes Buick yep the Buick again the first time I did brakeson it the bleeder on two of them sheared off with almost no pressure and what ever grease monkey at the dealership where my Grandmother had all the work done when she owned the car's had striped out the pins torx b or hex head and the bleeders. I had to drill out two brass bleeders then get replacements from autozone. THe HELP replacement ones wherenot made from brass they felt like chrome plated steel.
Oh and just to be clear their is no way to remove stripped out brass bleeder bolts with out destroying them to the point that they willnot be reusable. If you deforrm the end it often deforms the entire thing making future sealing an issue!
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Now that makes sense, but on the front fitting, there is like a pressure regulator with a bleeder valve on it. there is a line coming from the master cyl. and it hooks up to this additional cyl.( not sure if thats the slave cyl.) then the rear line runs from front to back and both of those fittings are rusted to the pipe. a buddy recommended that i just cut the line and use an easy out/bolt puller bit on them. and replace it all that way? would you recommend the same? if so that would be just a couple of hours and im done kind of thing.
thanks
John
thanks
John
Brass? I've never seen brass ends/fittings on brake lines.
the ones i have to replace the fittings are brass so. i dont know what else to do. i just need to know how to get them out of there if i can, and save the good brake hose.
i take that back, they are zinc plated steel. and i am thinking on having a moblie mechanic help me. they have the tools and the knowledge to do this. few people at work told me about a guy who used to work at my job, was a certified mechanic and will work on the side on his days off. i am going to contact him and see what he will charge to remove the fittings. and what he would charge to help put the lines in afterwords. i am running out of time and patience. this truck is needed on the road Weeks ago.
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