Heavy oil or thin?

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Hello: New member here (long time lurker) and I have a question. I have a 1966 289 4bbl Mustang auto. I store it in the winter and drive it in the summer. I put about 5000 miles during the summer and the car runs like a dream. The compression is not bad (120ish), the bearings might not be as tight as they once were, the lifters and valve seem ok, a couple of small oil leaks ( rear bearing a couple of drops a week), and burns about 1 quart over the summer. It's just an old car, great shape but not a trailer queen. I have been using Mobil1 10w30 for years (the car called for 10w30 back in /66) and a Ford oil filter. I put new oil in at the start of the driving season. Question: do you think I should stick with the thinner oil (oil pressure is about 5-10lbs when hot) or change to a heavier oil (20w50). I don't understand the theory of thinner oil flow vs heavier oil filling up any spaces between bearings, lifters & pistons. Or maybe I am just over thinking the whole subject. The car has 100,000+ miles and I drive city and highway speeds. Thanks in advance. Mark Hone.
 
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Welcome to the Forum.

Suggest you consider a High Mileage 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-40 in the summer.
 
Is that 5 to 10 lbs oil pressure at idle or at speed? Personally I would use 15/40 any brand you like since you only drive it in the summer. OR- something like Defy in 10/40 if you can find it. In my 65 mustang I am using 10/30 defy, but I think next year I will go to super-tech 15/40. Of course, I also store the car all winter, and never start it in the spring till the weather gets into the 50's.f.
 
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Originally Posted By: Mark_Hone
I store it in the winter and drive it in the summer.



Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Suggest you consider a High Mileage 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-40 in the summer.


High Mileage Oil while in storage????
 
Originally Posted By: Mark_Hone
Hello: New member here (long time lurker) and I have a question. I have a 1966 289 4bbl Mustang auto. I store it in the winter and drive it in the summer. I put about 5000 miles during the summer and the car runs like a dream. The compression is not bad (120ish), the bearings might not be as tight as they once were, the lifters and valve seem ok, a couple of small oil leaks ( rear bearing a couple of drops a week), and burns about 1 quart over the summer. It's just an old car, great shape but not a trailer queen. I have been using Mobil1 10w30 for years (the car called for 10w30 back in /66) and a Ford oil filter. I put new oil in at the start of the driving season. Question: do you think I should stick with the thinner oil (oil pressure is about 5-10lbs when hot) or change to a heavier oil (20w50). I don't understand the theory of thinner oil flow vs heavier oil filling up any spaces between bearings, lifters & pistons. Or maybe I am just over thinking the whole subject. The car has 100,000+ miles and I drive city and highway speeds. Thanks in advance. Mark Hone.



Welcome to the forums!

Considering that you just drive the car normally (based on your description above) and don't drive it in the winter, any 30 or 40 grade oil would technically work well. Since the car is not new and, as you pointed out, it may have some lower end wear, a 40 grade is not a bad thing. I personally wouldn't jump all the way to a 50 grade, but certainly any synthetic 40 grade of your choice would be fine.

Don't get too hung up on the first number (especially since its not winter driven). When purchasing a synthetic oil, you don't have to worry as much about shear stability in most normal street-driven applications. M1 0W40, Castrol Edge 0W40, any synthetic 5W40 or synthetic 10W40 will perform just fine for you. If you did want to get into a conventional oil, then it would be best to purchase an HD 15W40 product.

Also, I would do the oil change right at the end of the driving season, just prior to storage, so that the car is stored with new, uncontaminated oil. In the spring, you just take it out and drive as normal. Change again just prior to storage. There is likely some fuel dilution in the oil and storing it that way is less than ideal.

Hope this helps and enjoy the ride.
 
Always glad to hear from a vintage car owner!

I'm going to assume your 10PSI is at hot idle, not hot/freeway speed. Because if its at hot/freeway, you need more than just a different oil... you need a new oil pump and/or new bearings.

So if that pressure is at idle, I would not change much. Most high-mileage 30-weight oils are at the thick end of the range for a 30, so a 5w30 or 10w30 HM oil should serve well. That said, something like a 5w40 HDEO or even Mobil 1 0w40 would also do very well, and you can get an SN rated oil that still has a healthy dose of Zn/P when you go to a 40 grade. I've used Rotella T6 5w40 and Mobil 1 0w40 in both my vintage big-blocks and they've turned in good UOA numbers. I wouldn't go with 15w40 HDEO, personally- I'd stick with either a synthetic blend HM oil in 5w30 or 10w30, or a synthetic 5w40 or 0w40.

Hope this helps!
 
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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Always glad to hear from a vintage car owner!

I'm going to assume your 10PSI is at hot idle, not hot/freeway speed. Because if its at hot/freeway, you need more than just a different oil... you need a new oil pump and/or new bearings.

So if that pressure is at idle, I would not change much. Most high-mileage 30-weight oils are at the thick end of the range for a 30, so a 5w30 or 10w30 HM oil should serve well. That said, something like a 5w40 HDEO or even Mobil 1 0w40 would also do very well, and you can get an SN rated oil that still has a healthy dose of Zn/P when you go to a 40 grade. I've used Rotella T6 5w40 and Mobil 1 0w40 in both my vintage big-blocks and they've turned in good UOA numbers. I wouldn't go with 15w40 HDEO, personally- I'd stick with either a synthetic blend HM oil in 5w30 or 10w30, or a synthetic 5w40 or 0w40.

Hope this helps!


Agree.

Have a good/long highway drive so that moisture and fuel would burnt off before put the car in storage.
 
I'd use Maxlife 10W-40.
It should help with the minor leaks.
I've had good experience wih it in my old BMW.
I'd avoid 20W-50. A forty grade is plenty thick for most applications even where a 20W-50 is recommended, as it is for my BMW for hot summer ambient temperatures.
 
Is this a factory 4bbl 289 K code engine? If it is it will have higher spring pressures than a regular 2bbl 289.

This may be a good engine to run oil with more ZDDP than your run of the mill "SN" oils.
 
Chris 142: no "K"code just a factory "A" code. Runs great, 5-10 psi at hot idle. I was just wondering if I should go to a heavier oil and I have been using GM's engine oil supplement off and on. Thanks for all the great responses. Mark
 
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