You may want to look into haveing a used engine installed. Are you willing to do some work on the truck yourself, or prefer to take it to a garage? I am just about to replace the primary timing chain tensoner on mine, and this shoud be quite the adventure. I am expecting the balance shaft chain tensioner to be shot as well. That means lifting the engine and droping the front axel to get the oil pan off. That is why I have put it off. Mine does not rattle at idel, so I expect your issue is at a more advanced stage
heaviest oil for a Ford Explorer SOHC 4 liter?
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Originally Posted By: widman
If it is a hydraulic tensioner, then try a treatment like AutoRx to get the tensioners working. The last thing you want to do is blow the engine.
Having said that, I've put 15W-40 in one. The poor guy bought it new. at 1000 km they put an sc SAE 40 in it at the "authorized service shop" then again at 4000 km and 7000 km. When he came to me at 10,000 km, we put 5W-30 in it and quieted it down completely, but it was using a quart every 5000 km, so we uppped it to 15W-40 and reduced the consumption. The damage had already been done.
I did the Auto-rx treatment. This is when I first started noticing the noise during the clean phase. FYI, we changed the oil and filter since new every 4,000 miles and had every recall/fix done by the dealer including the front tensioner replacement. We had a 100,000 mile extended warrenty.
I am also aware that heavier oil may only limited value regarding noise. This i why I am asking. Not sure even worth it to try heavier roil.
If it is a hydraulic tensioner, then try a treatment like AutoRx to get the tensioners working. The last thing you want to do is blow the engine.
Having said that, I've put 15W-40 in one. The poor guy bought it new. at 1000 km they put an sc SAE 40 in it at the "authorized service shop" then again at 4000 km and 7000 km. When he came to me at 10,000 km, we put 5W-30 in it and quieted it down completely, but it was using a quart every 5000 km, so we uppped it to 15W-40 and reduced the consumption. The damage had already been done.
I did the Auto-rx treatment. This is when I first started noticing the noise during the clean phase. FYI, we changed the oil and filter since new every 4,000 miles and had every recall/fix done by the dealer including the front tensioner replacement. We had a 100,000 mile extended warrenty.
I am also aware that heavier oil may only limited value regarding noise. This i why I am asking. Not sure even worth it to try heavier roil.
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I tried straigt 40 weight and it made no difference. Main problem with these engines is the primary timing chain tensioner is weak and does not last. A new designed part is avalable, but a bit of work to insall. Also, the cam chain tensioners don't last, and the plastic "cassettes" that they run through do not last either. Balance shaft tensioner is the weakest of all, I have one in front of me and it looks like a part from a Briggs and Stratton engine
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Originally Posted By: Bluestream
You may want to look into haveing a used engine installed. Are you willing to do some work on the truck yourself, or prefer to take it to a garage? I am just about to replace the primary timing chain tensoner on mine, and this shoud be quite the adventure. I am expecting the balance shaft chain tensioner to be shot as well. That means lifting the engine and droping the front axel to get the oil pan off. That is why I have put it off. Mine does not rattle at idel, so I expect your issue is at a more advanced stage
Thanks for your comments and the other posts on the maintenance forum. I cannot do the work myself. Checking around I cannot find anyone but a dealer willing to do the work.
I got a verbal quote of $1,100 from my selling dealer to do just the front timing chain, guides and related. However, I bet that did not include the balance shaft. One dealer told me the rear chain was worse tht the front . Of course the engine must come out to fix that one. What a mess.
You may want to look into haveing a used engine installed. Are you willing to do some work on the truck yourself, or prefer to take it to a garage? I am just about to replace the primary timing chain tensoner on mine, and this shoud be quite the adventure. I am expecting the balance shaft chain tensioner to be shot as well. That means lifting the engine and droping the front axel to get the oil pan off. That is why I have put it off. Mine does not rattle at idel, so I expect your issue is at a more advanced stage
Thanks for your comments and the other posts on the maintenance forum. I cannot do the work myself. Checking around I cannot find anyone but a dealer willing to do the work.
I got a verbal quote of $1,100 from my selling dealer to do just the front timing chain, guides and related. However, I bet that did not include the balance shaft. One dealer told me the rear chain was worse tht the front . Of course the engine must come out to fix that one. What a mess.
You have a few choices. Live with it until it fails, use thicker oils, additives, or any other band-aid to buy time. Repair it. Sell or trade in the vehicle. I would shy away from a private sale not wanting to stick someone with it.
[censored] position to be in! Sometimes the situation is a loser no matter what you do.
[censored] position to be in! Sometimes the situation is a loser no matter what you do.
The other option is to keep driving it and see how long it lasts. I have see your Explorer year and miles sell on ebay for $1100 to $1600. Maybe buy another one after it lets go. Keep yours on your front lawn as a parts truck. Neighbours will love that...
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Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: element_42
that 4.0L beast was made in Germany by Germans, so why not use a common German viscosity: 5w40?
A Ford engine made in Germany...why is it a piece of [censored] then.
No idea. Of course the North American Modular is fantastic, so I guess maybe it's the luck of the draw.
In regards to the trannies going out, I had the one in my '97 start to go at ~200,000. It was rebuilt, and now is at 308,000Km (my sister owns it now). Rebuild was 1200 bucks.
Originally Posted By: element_42
that 4.0L beast was made in Germany by Germans, so why not use a common German viscosity: 5w40?
A Ford engine made in Germany...why is it a piece of [censored] then.
No idea. Of course the North American Modular is fantastic, so I guess maybe it's the luck of the draw.
In regards to the trannies going out, I had the one in my '97 start to go at ~200,000. It was rebuilt, and now is at 308,000Km (my sister owns it now). Rebuild was 1200 bucks.
Russell, there's one more option; Cash for clunkers program. You can get $4500 for it if you buy a fuel efficent car.
Originally Posted By: Russell
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Fixing is not an option right now. Dealer wanted about $3,000 to fix front and rear timing chain issues.
...
Have you gotten a second opinion from a reputable local mechanic? Three thou$and sounds pretty $teep and I bet it could be done for a few hun'doh at a decent garage not located at a stealership...
*Edit: never mind, I see you have.
...
Fixing is not an option right now. Dealer wanted about $3,000 to fix front and rear timing chain issues.
...
Have you gotten a second opinion from a reputable local mechanic? Three thou$and sounds pretty $teep and I bet it could be done for a few hun'doh at a decent garage not located at a stealership...
*Edit: never mind, I see you have.
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Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: element_42
that 4.0L beast was made in Germany by Germans, so why not use a common German viscosity: 5w40?
A Ford engine made in Germany...why is it a piece of [censored] then.
Because not everything made in Germany is that great (see Consumer Reports for more info.) and the transmission was made in France, setting up a perpetual, internal conflict in your Ford with the engine always invading the trans.
I suspect the sneaky Franco-trans. got the better of the Teutonic-engine and Verdunned it in this case.
Originally Posted By: element_42
that 4.0L beast was made in Germany by Germans, so why not use a common German viscosity: 5w40?
A Ford engine made in Germany...why is it a piece of [censored] then.
Because not everything made in Germany is that great (see Consumer Reports for more info.) and the transmission was made in France, setting up a perpetual, internal conflict in your Ford with the engine always invading the trans.
I suspect the sneaky Franco-trans. got the better of the Teutonic-engine and Verdunned it in this case.
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Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Russell, there's one more option; Cash for clunkers program. You can get $4500 for it if you buy a fuel efficent car.
Been thinking about that. May do it.
Russell, there's one more option; Cash for clunkers program. You can get $4500 for it if you buy a fuel efficent car.
Been thinking about that. May do it.
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Russell, there's one more option; Cash for clunkers program. You can get $4500 for it if you buy a fuel efficent car.
Gee, maybe I should start a new business. I buy peoples' clunkers for haul-away cash. Then I trade them for a high-demand new car, taking the "cash for clunkers" money into account. Then I turn around and sell the new car for a price that allows me to make a couple grand on the net transaction, even accounting for the "off the lot" depreciation.
Please don't anyone try this unless you get some good advice about your market first...
Russell, there's one more option; Cash for clunkers program. You can get $4500 for it if you buy a fuel efficent car.
Gee, maybe I should start a new business. I buy peoples' clunkers for haul-away cash. Then I trade them for a high-demand new car, taking the "cash for clunkers" money into account. Then I turn around and sell the new car for a price that allows me to make a couple grand on the net transaction, even accounting for the "off the lot" depreciation.
Please don't anyone try this unless you get some good advice about your market first...
You can try a local shop and they will be cheaper, but you can expect $700 - $1000 min I would think. They need to be familier with this motor, or they may screw something up. My concern is what else will they find when they go in? Balance shaft tensioner? Timing Chain Cassettes? It's hard to say...then what do you do? Put it back together half fixed, or pony uo even more money to have it done right?
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: element_42
that 4.0L beast was made in Germany by Germans, so why not use a common German viscosity: 5w40?
A Ford engine made in Germany...why is it a piece of [censored] then.
Made in Germany, but on a Ford budget...
Originally Posted By: element_42
that 4.0L beast was made in Germany by Germans, so why not use a common German viscosity: 5w40?
A Ford engine made in Germany...why is it a piece of [censored] then.
Made in Germany, but on a Ford budget...
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Russell, there's one more option; Cash for clunkers program. You can get $4500 for it if you buy a fuel efficent car.
Gee, maybe I should start a new business. I buy peoples' clunkers for haul-away cash. Then I trade them for a high-demand new car, taking the "cash for clunkers" money into account. Then I turn around and sell the new car for a price that allows me to make a couple grand on the net transaction, even accounting for the "off the lot" depreciation.
Please don't anyone try this unless you get some good advice about your market first...
Nope! Ain't gonna work and your business plan (even in jest) is already shot.
In order to qualify for "Cash for Clunkers" (which is a huge misnomer as the program should really be called "Cash for GAS GUZZLERS!") the said car must have been on the road and in your possession, as in registered and insured by you, for at least a year.
The only people who will really benefit are those that have a number of vehicles on the Clunker's list (more than a cumulative 18mpg city and highway combined need not apply) and have equity and good credit enough to buy a bunch of cars...
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Russell, there's one more option; Cash for clunkers program. You can get $4500 for it if you buy a fuel efficent car.
Gee, maybe I should start a new business. I buy peoples' clunkers for haul-away cash. Then I trade them for a high-demand new car, taking the "cash for clunkers" money into account. Then I turn around and sell the new car for a price that allows me to make a couple grand on the net transaction, even accounting for the "off the lot" depreciation.
Please don't anyone try this unless you get some good advice about your market first...
Nope! Ain't gonna work and your business plan (even in jest) is already shot.
In order to qualify for "Cash for Clunkers" (which is a huge misnomer as the program should really be called "Cash for GAS GUZZLERS!") the said car must have been on the road and in your possession, as in registered and insured by you, for at least a year.
The only people who will really benefit are those that have a number of vehicles on the Clunker's list (more than a cumulative 18mpg city and highway combined need not apply) and have equity and good credit enough to buy a bunch of cars...
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