Heater Core Flush

Ive used the poor mans version too, it has no pump, just a bucket with a pipe fitting on the bottom and put the bucket up high like on a ladder or shelf, have a pinch pliers to act as a valve.

Let it flow and collect it in another bucket,

The bucket also works a treat to fill long run cooling systems like the old toyota mr2.
 
He may be just fine. I was having issues on my BMW with no heat on the passenger side and low heat on the drivers side. Shop flushed the heater core with just a garden hose and gunk came out and it was good for a year, but then problem returned.

The shop recommended I put Liqui Moly radiator flush in the car before driving to their shop (an hour away), then when I got there, they used this tool they had recently purchased:

Its been over two years, still heats fine. No leaks, no issue. Car is 24 years old and 371k miles.
The annoying thing is I only use factory BMW G48 coolant and get it changed every 3 to 4 years since new. Not sure why this black gunk was forming in the heater core.

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The black gunk is usually some oil content which has reduced down and become a tarry grease, non foaming soap cleans it out. Liqui moly flush has good soaping action that emulsifies it.

Bmws are known for cooling systems issues and this is why I mandate a full system flush and clean if any thing leaks where oil and coolant are in close area like the oil filter housing or oil cooler.
 
One year update..........I get an occasional smell of coolant when the heater is on, yet the overflow level does not drop and the heat is awesome. So far this has been a success. (y)
Your heater core is leaking. It hardly takes any leakage to cause a coolant smell inside when the heater is on which won't show as a coolant loss in the bottle. As it worsens, your windows will start to steam up. I wouldn't call it a success and would prepare for core surgery.
 
My 2001 Blazer has had some poor heat so before resorting to an expensive heater core replacement, I decided to flush it. I bought a cheap transfer pump off Amazon and a gallon of CLR.
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I started with tap water and the first 5 minutes flushed ouit some black junk. I ditched the bucket and refilled it haf way with water, then added 1/2 gallon CLR. I changed hoses a few times, flushing forward, and back flushing. I also stopped/started the pump many times to shock the core. In the first pic you see the cheap transfer pump. It failed in less than and hour and a half. My neighbor gave me a submersible pump that saved the day. When the 1st pump failed I ditched that bucket of solution and refilled the same way. In total I ran it about 3 hours, then close to another hour flushing with several clean buckets of water. I now have blast furnace type heat!!!!!
I'm surprised that you didn't try the prestone system flush in the yellow bottle as it's designed specifically for this. I'd be afraid that clr could damage heater cores or other components
 
One year update..........I get an occasional smell of coolant when the heater is on, yet the overflow level does not drop and the heat is awesome. So far this has been a success. (y)
Coolant is highly toxic, one of the most poisonous chemicals a person can encounter. Unfortunately, it really doesn't get the respect it deserves with respect to just how dangerous it is. If you're smelling it, you're breathing it.
 
I've seen South Main Auto use this same method on heater cores. It's worth a shot for sure.
He also uses one of the Gates pulsator flush guns - overkill for a DIYer.

I’ve haven’t had to do such a thing but if I must, I’ll use a sump pump, HOT water and a dishwasher tab.
 
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Coolant is highly toxic, one of the most poisonous chemicals a person can encounter. Unfortunately, it really doesn't get the respect it deserves with respect to just how dangerous it is. If you're smelling it, you're breathing it.
Yea, a few drops of ethylene glycol can kill a cat or dog while a teaspoon to a tablespoon can kill a human. It kills in shockingly a similar manner as methanol does - oxalic acid crystals destroying the kidneys(MeOH turns into formic acid and formaldehyde). Alcohol dehydrogenase breakdowns ethylene glycol down to oxalic acid. Ethylene glycol was used in paint and the colorants - until recently thanks to VOC regulations.

The antidote is a shot of the strongest liquor until one gets to the hospital.
 
Your heater core is leaking. It hardly takes any leakage to cause a coolant smell inside when the heater is on which won't show as a coolant loss in the bottle. As it worsens, your windows will start to steam up. I wouldn't call it a success and would prepare for core surgery.
That's what someone said a year ago, yet the level is approx 1/8" down from full when hot. So it might be leaking, but at the rate of 1 drop/month. Zero condensation on the windows. Considering it's a 25 yr old vehicle that I pad $6400 for 11 yrs ago, I consider it a success to avoid a $1000+ heater core replacement bill at my local mechanic. And NO, I am not taking that dash apart myself.
I'll check in again next year and let you guys know how it's doing.
 
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