Headlight bulb upgrades - your opinions please

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anyone know what will take off the blue coating on these ricer bulbs?
i got a few cheap at the flea as spares for my bike.
at a buck each its stupid to pass up.these silverstars dont seem to have as dark of a coating as some i have seen but if a common solvent will strip it i will do it.
as for the xtravision in the hot pink box they made a noticeable improvement in the wagon.
i did the direct mod with relays many years ago too.i get 14.2v at the socket.i only had 10.8 before.this car was only 4 yr old when i got it so it likely was this bad from gm.its an 85 olds wagon.
 
I'll second the harness first. If your car is newer than a '95. My '97 has about 18ga wire going to the headlamps. Installing a relay harness and better grounds helped more than any headlight bulb. Currently using the SilverStars. Had the PIAA and also used the XtraVisions. Most light were the XtraVisions but they were yellower.
 
I had Silverstars(US)in my Volvo. They lasted a little over 1yr and blew out within a week of one another. When I put my regular bulbs back in, I realized how much better the Silverstars really were. But I just couldn't bring myself to shelling out another $40 for bulbs that only last 12mo. I recently installed a set of Hella's new high performance bulbs. They're less expensive than the Silverstars and seem just as bright. I just hope they last a little longer.
 
I just installed the XtraVision 9007 Low/High beam (in same bulb).
Before making my choice, I visited the sylvania website. The life expectancy of the XtraVision is slightly less than the OEM replacement, the SilverStar life expectancy was significantly less than OEM. This is as per their website. They also gave some examples of illumination from each bulb. The major difference that I saw in the SilverStar was that it is the more white light. I chose the XtraVision because it seemed to be a nice upgrade...without a major decrease in bulb life.....and for under $20 for the pair.
They did seem to be an improvement over the OEM spec bulbs that I replaced dry and rain. Have not tried them out in heavy snow or fog yet.
 
I installed a headlight harness in my 1988 Mustang GT. The headlight switch doesn't get nearly as hot as it did before and the headlights seem brighter.

I installed the headlight harness because the thermal breaker in the headlight switch would trip (it resets when it cools off enough) if the brights or the foglights were used for any extended amount of time.
 
I installed a set of Sylvania XtraVison 9004XV and a wiring harness from www.suvlights.com See 'Shaman'post above. The wiring harness is 'plug and play' as in no splicing or soldering. It uses electrical relays so there is less voltage drop than the stock witring harness has. Pls see brianl above- his head lisght switch was hot to the touch. Why? The stock head light circuit has to route thru the h/l switch in very small gauge wire. This creates a serious voltage drop. So I am saying the wiring harness is very important- especially if you go to higher wattage bulbs or the stock bulbs are already creating excessive heat as in Brianl's Mustang.
 
I had the Silverstar's in one of my vehicles. I drive a lot in the dark, so I use my lights often. One of the Silverstar's blew out in 9 months, the other in 11 months. I replaced them with the XtraVisions, as my other vehicle has had the XtraVisions in for almost 2 years.

I'll stick with the XtraVisions. Maybe not as white as the Silverstar's, but they last much longer, and provide a lot better light than OEM.
 
Any bulb works better then a bulb that burns out when its needed!

I went through a bunch of Silverstars. I did a lot of driving at night and they burnt out way too quickly(some in under 3 months). I got tired of wasting the money and time on frequent bulp replacement.

I'm happy with the PIAA replacement bulbs.

OEM/stock/standard type bulbs s@ck!!! Upgrade them but my recommendation is not to go to the TOP bulb from any manufacturer. They're addictive and you won't want to downgrade. Just do a +1 upgrade and see if you're happy!
And, when replacing pairs, wrap/save good stock bulbs with the spare tire.

Here is some intra brand comparisons:
http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/Products/ProductComparison/default.htm
http://www.gelighting.com/na/home_lighting/ask_us/faq_car.htm#lighttypes
http://www.piaa.com/Bulbs/BulbsAbout.html
http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/us/automotive/products/
http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hel...Services/Performance_Lighting/Bulbs/Bulbs.jsp
 
I had heard on another site that the SilverStars didn't have much life compared to the stock lamps. I just had one low beam on my Sylvania XtraVision HL go out. It had lasted 2 years one month and 25k miles. I use the low beams 80% of the time, so not surprized it was the one that burned out. Price for 9004 XV is 9.99 each at Auto Zone or Advance Auto. 20% brighter than stock. 65 watts hi/ 45 watts low beam. My 9004 info says not interchangable with 9007. A cursory glance at the two bulbs shows they are simular. What would it take on a GM car with stock 9004's to replace with 9007's? What would the advantage be? Has anyone done this convert on a GM car?
 
Yes, the philips VisionPlus bulbs from suvlights are the same bulbs i've ordered from europe. They are quite excellent bulbs. Combine that with a harness upgrade and a good beam alignment, and you'll have rockin' headlights.
 
Jim, I can't help you on mounting, but I know that I used a 9007 headlight plug on my 9004 headlight when I did my homemade headlight harness upgrade.

I will be building a harness in the next month or so, and I will try to document the build with pics, although it is going to be rather simple because of the bulbs that I have not really needing headlight plugs.
 
My 9004 lights went dim gradually, partially because I had three years on my old Phillips bulbs, and partly because the plastic lens had yellowed and been sandblasted from simply driving the thing. I polished the lenses, and went looking for a brighter bulb, and naturally, I fell for the bluer-is-better hype, and ordered some from luminics. TOO blue. Strange, those blue bulbs, they'll light up a sign a mile away, but can't throw a pattern on the road ahead. They were lights, bright, but not FOCUSED. Like you're traveling through a blue haze. They sent their Hyper-Whites, which are almost as blue as the first set, and those are going back, too. Luminics broke their policy and advance shipped the Hyper-Whites, and they promised a refund, but these things just don't work. Too blue.

By the time the second set came from Luminics, I'd gotten fed up waiting and bought GE Nighthawks. Much better, but not good enough. Ordered a harness from www.hioutputbulbs.com/compt.htm The guy was most helpful, and for a lousy $50.00 I get a plug and play harness in 12 ga. wiring and Bosche relays. He said the higher-wattage bulbs won't be necessary with full voltage to the Nighthawks, so we'll see.

And yes, just in case, I ordered 80W/100W clears, just in case.
twak.gif
Hope the cases don't melt!

[ December 13, 2005, 08:37 AM: Message edited by: toocrazy2yoo ]
 
Sylvania's are a very nice color but will only last you up to 2 years tops with normal usage. Call Sylvania and ask them. I would probably prefer HELLA. They are the same color as stock, just brighter. Same wattage (like the Sylvania effect). Thing about bluish tint lights or white lights like the sylvania is anytime their is any other light such as yellowish street lights outside or if it's raining especially the Sylvania's kind of diminish. But when it is completely dark they shine. Literally. I mean it doesn't matter because if their are street lights you don't really need your headlights too much to see further. This has been my experience Maybe it's because the yellowish tint from other lights is most noticed by our eyes. Id get them but they're pricey to replace so take this into consideration.
 
Yeah, I was reading a paper from Dan Stern, who's an automotive lighting expert of some apparent note. His theory is, any blue in the bulb screens out yellow, and impedes the output of lumens as though the bulb was wearing sunglasses. This of course, necessitates burning the filiment hotter, shortening its life. The blue in the bulb is pure gimmick, strictly to emulate the HID look, not function. Clear bulbs are the way to go in any application other than HID, assuming, of course, that you're after LUMENS, not degrees KELVIN.

So says the guru. Me, I dunno squat, except what I have read and experienced with my blue/white/clear (GE Nighthawks) bulb swaps. I'd have to say Mr. Stern is correct.
 
One of my Silverstars just recently burnt out, I bought another set and replaced both...its worth it in my opinion...I gotta year and a half out of them and dont feel disappointed.
 
Sorry, had to cut the previous reply short.

Anyway, tinting actually reduces light levels, as it's like putting sunglasses on your headlights. For a given maximum current level if you want to increase brightness you need to make the filament hotter, typically by making it thinner given similar materials so it will have a shorter life on average compared to a 'standard' bulb.
 
Here is some informative and interesting information, excerpted and paraphrased, from the following Dan Stern website referred to in a previous post:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

For those who want the best possible performance from their headlamps and are more concerned with their ability to see rather than the appearance of their headlamps, the major bulb companies offer optimized bulbs without the light-stealing blue glass. Narva RangePower+50 and RangePower+30, GE Night Hawk, and Philips Vision Plus, and Osram Silver Star are the ones to get.
A major reason why many people find many US-specification headlamps in need of upgrading is because many such headlamps have very low levels of foreground light, which creates a "black hole" on the road in front of the car. There's often insufficient lateral light (left and right) to see critters or people before they run into the road. The "hot spot" creates a narrow tunnel of light that disappears "out there somewhere", with no visual cue to where the beam (and therefore the driver's seeing range or "preview") ends. But these headlamp performance aspects are governed by the optics of the lamp, not by the color of the light. Bulbs with blue or purple tinted glass never improve the performance of your headlamps. They may leave it relatively unchanged, or they may severely reduce it, but they never improve it.

Get the longest bulb life rating you can.
Do not get blue-colored or other tinted color bulbs. They don't work as good as plain white ones.

"Superwhite" "Hyperwhite", "UltraWhite", "Platinum", etc., basically any bulb advertised as being "whiter" than normal) bulbs produce more glare and less seeing light than standard bulbs.
The "55W = 85W" (claiming you get 85W of light from a 55W bulb) type claims are a sham. Here's how these kinds of pretend wattage numbers are cooked-up: The blue or purple filtration coating on the glass tints the light so that it is "whiter". Most bulbs that actually produces more light (i.e., higher-wattage bulbs) also burn with a whiter color than standard-wattage bulbs. With these color-coated bulbs, only the light color, and not the actual light output, imitates a high-power bulb. There is no seeing advantage to "whiter" light, though some people seem to think that others will look upon headlamps so equipped and go "Wow, cool!". Why they believe anyone else cares what color their headlamps are is anybody's guess.

Discount claims that a bulb produces the whitest or brightest light of any bulb.

Ignore "color temperature" claims. They're a sham. Color Temperature is a real measure, but it is being improperly used to claim improved seeing. Color temperature has no predictive value for the performance of an automotive headlamp, nor does it indicate how well you'll be able to see.

HID lights or conversion kits are not worth it, are pricey, and may not be safe.
 
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