Havoline SM 5-20W, 3500 miles, 2005 Acura TL

[rogsoil]

Hello ...

This is my first post, but I have followed discussions on this board for quite some time and have learned (but was not tested on) a considerable amount of information.

This is my first UOA; I have some ideas what caused the numbers represented in this UOA, but before expressing them, I would like to defer to your perceptions and comments.

Here is some history:

Vehicle is an 2005 Acura TL equipped with 6 speed MT. Location: Northern Calif.

Driven fast when on highway (traffic flow at 75-80 MPH or >), with some v-tech "moments", but not floored when starting from stop sign or light. Car may sit in a garage for few days, than may be used for several days in a row in highway/town environment (with some limited bumper to bumper traffic).

I warm-up the engine for an average of 2 minutes; that's after starting a stone cold engine. Drive conservatively until engine reaches operating temp.

This vehicle has been lubricated exclusively with Havoline GL-4/SM 5-20W since new, with a 3000 or so mile OCIs. First oil change at 1500 [yes, old school ;-)]. OEM Filtech brand oil filters used.

I have included some links (I hope) to UOAs posted for Acura Tls on this forum, just for general comparison purposes, should anyone wish to do view them.

Happy New Year !

Links:

Acura Tl 1

Acura Tl 2

Acura Tl 3

Acura TL 4

UOA by Blackstone Labs

 

[Ray H]

Overall, nice report. I don't know whether the Havoline sheared back or whether the slightly low SUS 210º F. viscosity was the result of fuel contamination. Unless you typically see freezing temperatures overnight, I'd wait no more than 30 seconds before driving the car upon cold startup to minimize fuel contamination in the motor oil. If you do see freezing overnight temperatures, a minute of idling before easing off on your way is sufficient. In either case, gentle driving will actually aid cold engine warm-up more than extended idling. That minor operational quibble aside, you got a very nicely wearing Honda motor.

 

[TR3-2001SE]

Looks like very low wear metals for a fairly new engine. Aluminum and Copper are high and worth checking on to make sure they drop with time. The viscosity would worry me as it has dropped below the 20 weight originally specified. I would not go past 3000 miles with this oil and car based on this UOA. Oil is just getting to thin. Yes the 3000 mile change is back

 

[The Critic]

Quote:

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Looks like very low wear metals for a fairly new engine. Aluminum and Copper are high and worth checking on to make sure they drop with time. The viscosity would worry me as it has dropped below the 20 weight originally specified. I would not go past 3000 miles with this oil and car based on this UOA. Oil is just getting to thin. Yes the 3000 mile change is back

---

Just about all 5W20 mineral oils thin to this state. What's the big deal?

 

[goodvibes]

It's probably about as thin as it will get and going to start it's way back up.

 

[rogsoil]

Thanks for everyone's input.

I am not sure about the reasons for higher aluminum.

Oddly, a Havoline VOA posted on this board showed an Aluminum count of 6 PPM (?)

Could this be an artifact of the VOA analysis (a lab error), or real number ?

Here is the link:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post474084


I will have dealer check fuel mapping in my TL, although the engine is exceptionally smooth in all temperature ranges, and my gas millage is at steady 25 MPG in any environment (and not bad given my “average” speed). A less restrictive air filter may be in order.

I did notice slight knocking from the right side of the engine (compartment); it starts about 1 and ½ minutes from engine start and disappears completely as engine warms up. I heard that “mystery” noise reported in Acura forums. However, it sound very much like piston slap (piston skirt=aluminum)and definitely not injector or valve noise. There are a couple of solenoid/purge valve suspects but I think it is time for an old fashioned stethoscope and patience. From reports by others, dealers seem to be worthless in dealing with this issue. None the less I will have them look at the engine knock.

The oil pressure, by the way, builds up very quickly and the oil light goes off immediately after start. Oil filter is at -45 degrees form horizontal, hence, back-drain is not an issue.

I will change oil to a synthetic just to see what difference if any that will make. I did notice that oil sheared to low 20W, and Critic is in fact correct noting that most 20Ws shear to that level. I am beginning to think that a 5-30W or 0-30W oil will do much better in my application and driving environment. A 3000 mile OCI, as noted by AE Hass and others, seems to be a good temporary solution until problem is resolved. A Terry Dyson consult is definitely in the future.

I will post my next UOA when time arrives for next oil change.

Thanks again for your input.

 

[TeeDub]

The levels of Al/Cr/Fe would indicate a fair amount of fuel wash down the cylinders. This seems to be a common problem with the most recent Honda/Acura engines, but it's worse with the V-6's.

I'd consider trying a 0w-30 or 5w-30 if you continue to see this much upper engine wear due to fuel.

 

[Winston]

I hear that the Honda air filters are not that good. Try a Fram air filter.

Warming up your car for 2 min prior to driving is worse than driving gently after a 10 sec warm up.

 

[The Critic]

Does FRAM even make a filter for that car? I haven't seen one for the TL at the local Walmart.

Put a K&N on there from Amazon...problem solved.