Kestas-
These rust converters need rust to work.
It is not a substance that can be pre applied with success.
These rust converters need rust to work.
It is not a substance that can be pre applied with success.
Has anyone used a rust converter?
- Thread starter Virtuoso
- Start date
- Status
Kestas
Staff member
You're right, I got a little carried away.
But I think a sandblaster is superior to any rust converter. I'd hate to think that you first need to corrode metal to give it a decent anticorrosion treatment.
But I think a sandblaster is superior to any rust converter. I'd hate to think that you first need to corrode metal to give it a decent anticorrosion treatment.
Ideally, sand blasting the rust off and protecting it is a better choice. However, in places where that's not practical, then a rust converter is the next best thing to stop the already existing rust before applying a protective coating.
I have used POR-15 with good results, but nothing beats an asphaltic coating for general rust-proofing.
Kestas
Staff member
I've used roofing tar before, but over time it gets brittle and flakes off.
In response to the ongoing conversation between mechtech and Kestas,
I was under the impression that there was a difference between a rust converter and a product like POR-15. To my knowledge, POR-15 operates under the principle that by sealing the rust and not allowing it to come in contact with oxygen, you can prevent further oxidation.
Rust converters on the other hand, claim to convert rust into a non-oxidizing ferric compound.
Are the two of you speaking about two different concepts at the same time?
I was under the impression that there was a difference between a rust converter and a product like POR-15. To my knowledge, POR-15 operates under the principle that by sealing the rust and not allowing it to come in contact with oxygen, you can prevent further oxidation.
Rust converters on the other hand, claim to convert rust into a non-oxidizing ferric compound.
Are the two of you speaking about two different concepts at the same time?
I used the traditional rust converter on a diff cover that was quickly flaking into nothing. I let it make it another 18 months before other issues took the truck off the road. It did what it said, turned the rust into a hard shell. It wasn't pretty but it didn't rust anymore either.
I still can't get my head around the fact that it's so freaking hard to buy a replacement diff cover for a Ford 8.8 other than the chromed out hoopty ones. You'd think that a part that they made literally millions of and all of them around here are desperately rusty would be available aftermarket.
I still can't get my head around the fact that it's so freaking hard to buy a replacement diff cover for a Ford 8.8 other than the chromed out hoopty ones. You'd think that a part that they made literally millions of and all of them around here are desperately rusty would be available aftermarket.
I think it works fine for what you're buying. For a few bucks, literally, you spray this stuff and it turns red rust to black right before your eyes. It won't be the "be all, end all" of any rust strategy, but it works in any tight space that has rust and stops it temporarily.
Originally Posted By: Fitz98
Anyone tried Ospho?
I will be getting a gallon of it in a couple days to treat my rusty frame and undercarriage parts.
I will let you know how it works out.
I've used Oxpho Blue to finish an AK-47 receiver. Not sure if it's the same stuff. You have to wash it off or it will cause rusting itself. Also it would need painted for any outdoor application.
Anyone tried Ospho?
I will be getting a gallon of it in a couple days to treat my rusty frame and undercarriage parts.
I will let you know how it works out.
I've used Oxpho Blue to finish an AK-47 receiver. Not sure if it's the same stuff. You have to wash it off or it will cause rusting itself. Also it would need painted for any outdoor application.
Here is a picture of my front suspension after heavy scraping of loose rust but before Oshpo treatment
(I wish I knew how to insert the picture, but here is the link)
[img:left]http://www.hometheaterlifestyles.com/RustPretreatment.html[/img]
And here it is about 30 minutes after spraing it on with a spray bottle
It chemically converts the rust to a paintable iron ferrite. I don't plan to paint it, just wanted to stop the aggressive rusting process.
After 24 hours, they say that the surface is ready for priming and paint
(I wish I knew how to insert the picture, but here is the link)
[img:left]http://www.hometheaterlifestyles.com/RustPretreatment.html[/img]
And here it is about 30 minutes after spraing it on with a spray bottle
It chemically converts the rust to a paintable iron ferrite. I don't plan to paint it, just wanted to stop the aggressive rusting process.
After 24 hours, they say that the surface is ready for priming and paint
I used something Rust Not by plastikote. I used it on some SMALL spots last year (I painted them with touch-up paint afterwards). So far, I do not see any evidence of rust. Very early to really tell if it works though.
- Status
