Grease Needle Nozzle

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An Amsoil dealer I know uses a Lincoln Needle Nozzle to puncture the boot and inject synthetic grease into sealed ball joints and other suspension parts. Has anybody else done this and what were the results?
 
Doing this needle lub on a mercedes ml320 and towncar with no negative results. both vehicles drove smoother, and turned easier after this procedure. you can seal the tiny needle hole up with clear seal. most joints are dry after a few years
 
I might not be to sharp, but it seems like this method would do nothing but poke a hole in a good boot. If the grease is not going through a fitting that forces it into the conact area as in a "zerk" I don't see how it does anything. Am I missing something here ?
 
Hello to a fellow Texan. You know, I do not like the idea of ball joints or wheel bearings that are not meant to be greased during routine maintenance. HOWEVER, my old work car is a 1996 Toyota Camry V-6 that I bought new a decade ago. It now has well over 160,000 miles and the wheel bearings spin smoothly. The ball joints are still tight, too. They've never been replaced. I have therefore concluded that lubricated-for-life technology as it exists today is plenty okay. Now,
as to puncturing the boot and injecting synthetic grease into ball joints or any other suspension part protected by a boot, I WOULD NOT do it. Why in the world would one want to place even a tiny puncture in a boot and allow the possibility/probability of allowing an avenue for dirt/dust or water to enter. These parts are sealed for a purpose and that purpose extends beyond zero maintenance.
 
I agree with you. What this Amsoil dealer does is almost heresy, but he is a very smart guy. If he wasn't such a smart guy, it wouldn't give this idea the time of day. It's such a radical idea that I wanted to see if anybody else had tried it and what the results were.
 
I agree with you Shovel Head Ted, if the grease does'nt get into where the actual ball part of the joint is I can't see it doing much good as well. With a Zerk the grease goes into the Ball of the joint and then into the boot. Can you not drill a hole into the base of the Ball Joint and then thread in a zerk?
 
If you've just 'got' to grease sealed joints, then do as Burbanite suggests. Shovel Head Ted and Burbanite are obviously correct. To ruin a perfectly good boot in order to get more grease in the boot will likely not get any grease--certainly not much-- into the working parts of the joint. Also, what about grease compatability? Do you know--for sure--what grease was added to the sealed joint by the vehicle manufacturer? Is it compatable with whatever you choose to put in the boot because some salesman assures you that's what was originally used?
Today I did a complete ATF fluid change on the Camry V-6 I mentioned earlier in this thread. I checked the balljoint boots very carefully. After 10 years & 162,975 miles, the joint boots are in excellent condition and they still have grease in them. I also checked the joints. They're still tight. It's not surprising, a'tall, to see most folks responding to this thread are also firm in their recommendation, "DON'T poke holes in a perfectly good boot."
 
When my 2002 Cavalier was brand new, I thought

the steering was a little stiff...

Well, when I was changing the break in oil at

around 1,200 miles, I checked the tie rod end

grease boots....they were not 'plump' to the

fingers as if they contained any grease....

So I got out my needle to correct the problem....

Within a few days, the steering became what

it should be....

And, to this day, those boots still are 'plump'

with only a little seepage that can be seen

where I apparently used the needle....

Won't hesitate to use the needle again if I

have to !
 
FWIW we use unserviceable u-joints in heavy truck PTO units and they last longer than the ones you have to add grease to. Personally I would leave it alone.
 
On my 1995 Olds I drilled and tapped the joints and installed fittings.With my 2000 Montana I pierced the boots and injected Mobil ! grease.Refill the boots every 6000 miles or so.Figure that the small hole and full boot is better that no hole and no grease.If the boot was properly filled when new it should last a t least 100,000 miles.I have seen many tie rod ends rusty and dry and worn out at 30,000 miles because they were never or only slightly filled.
A car with grease fittings has a hole in the boot.This is necessary to allow the air to escape when its filled with grease.For the first fill I make two holes and fill till the grease comes out og the extra hole.Probably a good idea to regrease once the boot hs been pierced - especially here in the salty north.
 
An unusual need...

A friend with a 2001 Dodge 1500 pickup has
over 192,000 miles and the sealed joints
are still originals and doing just fine...

(How he has never replaced any of them is
because he drives mostly highway, and he's
very gentle on any vehicle.)

He's due for an oil change next week....

While he's up on ramps, he's agreed to
use my grease needle to "plump" those
sealed joints...

It will be interesting how many more miles
that truck will cover before something needs
replacing !
 
True dat. Plus how do you know if the new grease you're injecting is compatible with the grease already in the unit? I agree making lubrication cocktails is fun however.
smile.gif
 
Porcupine73, we'll never know...

Anyway, I'll offer him my grease gun
loaded with Mobil 1 synthetic...

And, I'll tell him if he squeezes a
boot and he can't feel any grease
squishing around, fill it till plump...

Tell me what you'd do, I'd appreciate...
 
I guess for CV's as long it's a CV rated grease. I would have to guess it would be better than no grease at all. It definitely sounds interesting. I was thinking about maybe doing it on one of my CV's that looks like it leaked a little out the band clamp. I'm going to try RedLine Red Moly CV grease soon.
 
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