Grease fittings on steering linkage and ball joints that have no grease nipple never get greased and are designed that way. So if you never grease those that have grease nipples, will they last as long as the grease-less joints?
Grease Job Question
- Thread starter TallPaul
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The non-greaseless parts are supposedly better quality than the grease parts. But then again I have a truck with 250k miles on it that has all original front end parts that are greased whenever I change the oil. So if they do have fittings...surely grease them.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
The non-greaseless parts are supposedly better quality than the grease parts. But then again I have a truck with 250k miles on it that has all original front end parts that are greased whenever I change the oil. So if they do have fittings...surely grease them.
Absolutely. If they're greaseable, they did not come with tight fitting seals and high quality grease. They need to be serviced.
The non-greaseless parts are supposedly better quality than the grease parts. But then again I have a truck with 250k miles on it that has all original front end parts that are greased whenever I change the oil. So if they do have fittings...surely grease them.
Absolutely. If they're greaseable, they did not come with tight fitting seals and high quality grease. They need to be serviced.
my idea, parts that are greaseable, does not mean they will last longer than others. just a guess
My wife's 2005 Mountaineer has no greaseable fittings. My 2001 Ranger has grease fittings only on the lower ball joints, which suggests to me that someone had them replaced before I bought the truck. I prefer the non greseable fittings, saves having to do one more dirty job.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Grease fittings on steering linkage and ball joints that have no grease nipple never get greased and are designed that way. So if you never grease those that have grease nipples, will they last as long as the grease-less joints?
I assume you're talking about non serviceable front end parts vs. a greaseable part?
The answer is no, they will not last as long if not greased regularly.
I too prefer a non greaseable part as it not only saves a bit of work, but they are MUCH cleaner.
Grease fittings on steering linkage and ball joints that have no grease nipple never get greased and are designed that way. So if you never grease those that have grease nipples, will they last as long as the grease-less joints?
I assume you're talking about non serviceable front end parts vs. a greaseable part?
The answer is no, they will not last as long if not greased regularly.
I too prefer a non greaseable part as it not only saves a bit of work, but they are MUCH cleaner.
you can tell how long a piece of equipment is designed to serve you just by counting Zerks.
0-4 means it's primarily designed for short service intervals. Expect regular parts and labor.
4-8 means there's at least a few things you can control the service life of. Grease it!
More than 10 means it may last forever if you take care of it.
FWIW I can count 12 in my head on our service trucks, I bet there's a few more that I missed.
0-4 means it's primarily designed for short service intervals. Expect regular parts and labor.
4-8 means there's at least a few things you can control the service life of. Grease it!
More than 10 means it may last forever if you take care of it.
FWIW I can count 12 in my head on our service trucks, I bet there's a few more that I missed.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
So if you never grease those that have grease nipples, will they last as long as the grease-less joints?
When greasing a ball joint that has a zerk, remember to use a good quality grease that meets the manufacturer's spec, and also DON'T USE TOO MUCH GREASE! Too often somebody greases a ball joint and pops the seal. Once you have water and dirt getting in, the ball joint will fail early. My rule of thumb is if the ball joint looks like a rubber balloon ready to burst, leave it alone.
So if you never grease those that have grease nipples, will they last as long as the grease-less joints?
When greasing a ball joint that has a zerk, remember to use a good quality grease that meets the manufacturer's spec, and also DON'T USE TOO MUCH GREASE! Too often somebody greases a ball joint and pops the seal. Once you have water and dirt getting in, the ball joint will fail early. My rule of thumb is if the ball joint looks like a rubber balloon ready to burst, leave it alone.
Probably better not to grease than to over grease to popping the seal.
My son't 2001 S10 has something like 11 zerks.
My son't 2001 S10 has something like 11 zerks.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
you can tell how long a piece of equipment is designed to serve you just by counting Zerks.
0-4 means it's primarily designed for short service intervals. Expect regular parts and labor.
4-8 means there's at least a few things you can control the service life of. Grease it!
More than 10 means it may last forever if you take care of it.
FWIW I can count 12 in my head on our service trucks, I bet there's a few more that I missed.
Sorry Steve, but after seeing greaseable parts failing at around the same mileage or before a non greaseable part, I'd say that it's luck of the draw or suspension geometry that dictates what is going to happen.
I think possibly the single biggest factor in keeping either style alive is keeping the boot properly sealed. Not always possible on some parts as they just have a loose fitting cup- those you have to grease very often to keep purging contaminates.
you can tell how long a piece of equipment is designed to serve you just by counting Zerks.
0-4 means it's primarily designed for short service intervals. Expect regular parts and labor.
4-8 means there's at least a few things you can control the service life of. Grease it!
More than 10 means it may last forever if you take care of it.
FWIW I can count 12 in my head on our service trucks, I bet there's a few more that I missed.
Sorry Steve, but after seeing greaseable parts failing at around the same mileage or before a non greaseable part, I'd say that it's luck of the draw or suspension geometry that dictates what is going to happen.
I think possibly the single biggest factor in keeping either style alive is keeping the boot properly sealed. Not always possible on some parts as they just have a loose fitting cup- those you have to grease very often to keep purging contaminates.
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