On the IG. Good detail. Should have been watching the gauges and not running that 0W20. Glad he was ok. Seems these blow and catch fire....more than one has done this. I wonder if the manual says to use a higher viscosity for this type of use? At 255 deg F a 20 grade is what viscosity?
GR Corolla on track with 0W-20 blows engine and crashes
- Thread starter TiGeo
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Was this your friend that insisted on 0W-20? I remember you were going to report back.
As I've mentioned before, we can successfully use 0W-20 in road race cars. However, the oil temp must be maintained below 180ºF, often with an overall target of 160ºF. While possible, it is not an easy or simple matter to do this.
There is no magic here. A certain viscosity is needed for the job.
I have always liked the HP per cylinder point of view. When HP per cylinder exceeds about 80, it is time to step up from a 30 to a 40 viscosity. At 100HP per cylinder, a 15W or 20W-50 is almost always a requirement. In defense of this point of view, rod bearing diameters on today's high HP engines really don't vary all that much.
Many modern high output engines have rod bearing diameters of 1.9 to 2.1 inches, or about 48 to 53mm. If I were to guess, I'd put this engine on the lower side of that. 100HP per 47-48mm rod bearing.
There is no magic here. A certain viscosity is needed for the job.
I have always liked the HP per cylinder point of view. When HP per cylinder exceeds about 80, it is time to step up from a 30 to a 40 viscosity. At 100HP per cylinder, a 15W or 20W-50 is almost always a requirement. In defense of this point of view, rod bearing diameters on today's high HP engines really don't vary all that much.
Many modern high output engines have rod bearing diameters of 1.9 to 2.1 inches, or about 48 to 53mm. If I were to guess, I'd put this engine on the lower side of that. 100HP per 47-48mm rod bearing.
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100%. Oil temp is key.
https://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html
This Calculator will help you out, since we do not know what oil, he was using, it is hard to say. I have played with this Calculator, and I do not want to put in a certain oil and upset someone here on this Board.
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Don't tell that to the "thin oil is better because it sheds heat faster!" crowd among us...
No.
edyvw
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Didn't Toyota refuse warranty work on these cars if the computer showed speeds exceeding 80mph?
https://www.carscoops.com/2024/07/t...-fire-damage-claims-tires-rated-below-85-mph/
Also, you don't run 0W20 on track unless super serious cooling system is involved.
And, generally, you don't run Toyota on track (unless Supra).
https://www.carscoops.com/2024/07/t...-fire-damage-claims-tires-rated-below-85-mph/
Also, you don't run 0W20 on track unless super serious cooling system is involved.
And, generally, you don't run Toyota on track (unless Supra).
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What the heck is that even supposed to mean?
edyvw
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It means you leave the track to cars that can handle it.
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Name some examples.
I put a certain oil into the Calculator, the letter starts with a V, and it is a 0W-20 oil, at 255 Degrees this oil has a film thickness of 5.56, I like a film thickness with the number 10 depending on the oil temp.
My Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is good up until my 10 number of 226F in my car. Realistically, my oil temp in the car in the sump is probably 210F at the most. I have a riding lawnmower that I use a temp probe after mowing and my Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 was only good up to 226F, that is with my 10 number. I am now using HPL CK-4 10W-40, which is good to about 242F, when I compare the 2 oil's, the temps are about the same to a certain extent. Here is where I need a more realistic oil temp reading, I mow the yard, and then I leave the mower running for a minute while I blow it off, and then I put the mower in the shed and take a temp reading. My 220 to 230 temp reading may not be 100% accurate. HPL 10W-50 would be good to about 264F in an air cooled engine.
I really think it is important to look at oil temps, I once asked a member here what his oil temps were with his Riding Mower, he said 180F, found out he had 1 of those old school John Deere Liquid Cooled engines.
My Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is good up until my 10 number of 226F in my car. Realistically, my oil temp in the car in the sump is probably 210F at the most. I have a riding lawnmower that I use a temp probe after mowing and my Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 was only good up to 226F, that is with my 10 number. I am now using HPL CK-4 10W-40, which is good to about 242F, when I compare the 2 oil's, the temps are about the same to a certain extent. Here is where I need a more realistic oil temp reading, I mow the yard, and then I leave the mower running for a minute while I blow it off, and then I put the mower in the shed and take a temp reading. My 220 to 230 temp reading may not be 100% accurate. HPL 10W-50 would be good to about 264F in an air cooled engine.
I really think it is important to look at oil temps, I once asked a member here what his oil temps were with his Riding Mower, he said 180F, found out he had 1 of those old school John Deere Liquid Cooled engines.
edyvw
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Respectfully, recording oil temps for a lawn mower engine? Why?
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Okay, so you take whatever Toyota you have in mind, install an oil cooler, track pads, suitable oil, and?
edyvw
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And what? What car do you track?
Yes, it is so simple. Go to your local track, tell us how many Toyota's you saw.
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You're entirely missing the point. People have tracked Panther platform Fords just for fun. You can track anything if it's prepped a bit.
edyvw
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Of course. I saw Chevrolet Malibu. There is a guy I know that tracks Volvo 740 station vagon.
But, you need a good engine (Toyota has A LOT of issues on track with engines). 254f is nothing. I ran 300f in BMW.
And for this kind of track performance on video, yeah, preparing "a bit" does not work.
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