Good lower cost acoustic guitar??

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ryan2022

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Hi guys/girls, I'm in the market for a relatively low cost acoustic guitar.

I want it to last a good number of years and play nicely. My big need, is one with a nice low action.

I've been looking at the Yamaha F370 $210, the Art & Luthrie basic model with spruce solid top $249 (discounted from $289), The Epiphone DR100 $200, as well as a Jasmine by Takamine $200. I can also drive for a while, and get a good deal on a Simon and Patrick entry level for $250. Simon and Patrick and the Art & Luthrie are both made by Guild.

Any thoughts?

Any guitar players and oil change nuts like me out there?

Thanks.

Ryan
 
Art and Luthrie and Simon and Patrick makes some nice acoustics, so i've heard. i have never really been a big fan of epiphone. Most of the ones i played, including the masterbiult series, just seemed blah to me and always freted out. For a low priced guitar that has good quality yamaha is hard to beat. Check out the FG series from yamaha. My first aoustic was the FG700S from yamaha, great guitar. I recently got myself the FG730S which is a step above the FG700S. The 730S will cost about 300 new w/o a case. I got mine on ebay for 250 w/ a case. The 700 will be about $100 less. The 700 and 730 are very similar except the 730 has laminate rosewood back and sides and some cosmetic appiontments whereas the 700 has nato(wanna be mahogoney) back and sides. Both solid tops. Any guitar you look at make sure it has a solid top. Yamahas are known to have a little higher action, but thats something that can easily me fixed my a tech.
 
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Hi Jim,

sorry, thinking new.

Thomas, thanks for the reply. The only one I listed that had a solid top was the Art & Luthrie. That really seems like the best deal. The one I'm looking at is $249 which was marked down. Its got a small ding in the side, and is last years model. Its the same as the new model, but the rosette (sp?) is painted on, instead of glued, which is fine by me. Its a nice satin burghundi finish. I do like it, I just hope they can do something about the action. It felt too high to me, but I know that can be adjusted.

I was still really taken by the Jasmine Takimine. The guy steered me towards the Art and Luthrie, maybe to upsell me, or maybe its just a better guitar.

I just liked the way the Jasmine felt. Nice low action, and good tone. It was a starburst orange on black, which I sort of liked. I might go back and take another look.

Ryan
 
Seems like your getting it narrowed down. Definetely play the two side by side to see whats the best. Purchasing an acoustic guitar is a very personal opinion/preference type of thing. Get the guitar that "speaks" to you. Does any of them come with a case?
 
Get the one that feels the most comfortable and is well built. Then take it to a reputable guitar tech and have them set it up for the action you want. Don't even worry about the action height while you're at the store.
 
I have an Art & Lutherie folk sized guitar. It has a solid cedar top and laminated back and sides. It's a really nice guitar for the money. I believe I paid $209 about 5 years ago. It's mainly used for fingerpicking, which cedar topped guitars really excel at. I lowered the action by sanding down the saddle. It plays like butter. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the Godin manufactured guitars. Godin makes Art & Lutherie, Seagull, Simon & Patrick, and Norman acoustic guitars. I also have a Seagull 12 string acoustic. I don't like the neck on it though. It feels like a tree trunk in my hand. Godin's guitars are made in Canada, which I prefer to a guitar made in China, Korea, or somewhere else. Hope this helps.
 
Ryan,.

For new I would look at Ibanez or Ovation. But I would also look at used Taylors, though for that price it would be hard to find one.

Note, Ovation guitars do not requite you to wory about humidity because they are not wood. If the guitar is wood use the following information.

If you ever find a wood guitar you like I would highly suggest that you go to radio shack and purchase a digital humidistat. These units also have temperature reading, but humidity reading is why you need it. There are low cost models starting at about $20 but the model I prefer uses a radio link and cost $60/ on sale it goes for $50. This unit comes with one transmitter unit. Mount the sensor in the case below the head if the guitar is not a cutaway. If it is a cutaway mount it in the cutaway section of the case. Use Amazing Goop glue in the small red and white tube to glue the sensor or clip that holds it, to the felt in the guitar case. Let it air out for at least a day before putting the guitar in afterwards so the fumes from the glue do not damage the finish of the guitar.

The wood of a guitar will give off or absorb moisture depending on if the ambient air has more or less moisture than the guitar has been exposed to on average in the past. This will cause the wood to expand or shrink.

If the neck and top get too dry due to exposure to air that is too dry, the top will loose some of its moisture, and the curve and and height of the top will fall. This will cause the strings to get too close to the frets and the strings will buzz.

If the top and neck are exposed to air with too much humidity they will absorb moisture, and the bow of the top will increase. This will cause the strings to get too high to be comfortable to play.

Most good guitars that have a nice low action on the neck can only keep that close nice action if the owner keeps the humidity inside the case within a very narrow range of humidity. With time you will learn that if the humidity in the case is above a certain number the strings will be too high. And if the humidity in the case is too low the strings will be too low.

One of my guitars likes a fairly humid case. In other words, if I keep the humidity in the case about 60 percent + or - 5 percent, it is a nice guitar to play action wise.

Another likes 47 percent + or - 5 percent.

The more expensive radio linked humidistat is nicer because you do not have to open the case to read it, and you can add up to a total of 3 units for $20 each additional unit.

If you keep the humidity in the case constant the guitar will not have problems. The neck will not change in curve, the strings will stay at the same height, the frets will not stick out from the side of the neck, and the top and back will not crack.

Chose a guitar by how it feels to you and how it plays and sounds. If a guitar looks real promising but the strings are very dull / oxidized, kind of like a dirty brass, not shiny, do not judge that guitar until you hear or play it with new strings on it.

Check with your local Community College to see if they have any evening adult cources to learn basic guitar playing. It is a good value for the amount of lessons you will get verses price, and it is a well organized orderly presentation.

Good Luck.
 
Originally Posted By: AdRock
Get the one that feels the most comfortable and is well built. Then take it to a reputable guitar tech and have them set it up for the action you want. Don't even worry about the action height while you're at the store.


Some guitars do not have a metal trus bar through the neck with an adjustment on one end, either hidden by a cover on the head or an adjustment inside the guitar. If the guitar does not have an adjustment for the neck built into it the neck will have to be removed and the mount will have to be worked. This can be expensive if it can even be done. Some are so bad they are un fixable.

If you find a nice guitar but the action requires adjustment be sure it has a way to be adjusted.
 
Yeah. You will have to sit down and spend some time playing the bunch to see which guitar feels best to you. Sounds best to you. And moves you when you play it.
 
If you plan to keep it for a long time, why not save some money and get a better one? You can get a much better guitar for a couple of hundred more bucks.
I'm spoiled by my Gibson, but a $200 guitar will probably frustrate you more than inspire you to play well.
If I were you, I'd save a little more money and go looking for a used Martin, Gibson, Taylor, Guild, etc.
 
Takimine makes some good guitars. In the price range you are looking I would pick up and play anything I found that was in the price range. If it sounds good, fits good, and plays good, and you like it grab it or someone else will.

One of the best places to look is at any shop that works on guitars. Often these shops have used guitars that they have gone over. Sure they are used. Expect them to have a few dings and nicks. But you sometimes get a real nice guitar for a much lower price if you are willing go with a used one.

If you get a new one sooner or later someday you will make the mistake of moving it without being aware of something around you, or something around you will fall or get nocked over and hit the guitar, and it will get a nick or scratch. In the price range you are looking I would pay more attention to the sound, neck action, and how it fits you, and not wory about a few nicks and scratches, and look at used ones. You are lible to find one that is a real pleasure to play.
 
Thanks a lot for the responses guys!

Jim, I've actually got a humidistat at home, I just havent pulled it out of the box yet, and didnt even think of guitar at first. This will give me a chance to pull it out.

Thanks again guys. I'm actually going out over lunch, there is a shop that sells Washburns and more Yamaha's so I can check pricing.

This Art and Lutherie still seems like the best of both worlds. I'll keep you all posted.

thanks again.

Ryan
 
When your guitar case gets outside the desired humidity range you can remove humidity (usually in the humid part of summer) from the case by removing the guitar, and then putting the open case in a room with a window airconditoner running for a few hours and turned to cold setting. Blowing a hair dryer around on the inside of the case for a few minutes every once in a while during this will help drive off humidity. You could also use a sock filled with some kind of desiccant moisture absorber, such as silicon beads designed to absorb moisture. There are some humidity absorbers sold at big hardware stores in the paint section.

To add humidity to your case (usually in the winter) you can use a sponge dampit that you purchase in music stores. You may require more than one. Use filtered water so impurities do not build up on the sponge, and be sure to wring it out well while wrapped in a dry towel so it will not drip on the case or guitar. Or just wet a paper towel and wring it out, and then wrap it in several dry paper towels so it will not drip. Place that in an open plastic bag in the case so the plastic protects the case and guitar from any water leaving the bottom of the paper towels.

When you transport a guitar in a vehicle never let the sun shine through a window on the guitar, or case. The case can act like a solar collector and on long trips the guitar can get hot enough to warp it. Protect case and guitar from sun with anything, such as a coat or blankets.

Never store a guitar in an attic. The extreme summer heat will warp it.

If you want to store a guitar for several months without paying attention to the humidity, put it in a case that has the proper humidity, and then put the case inside very large plastic bags such as christmas tree bags. Close the bag tight with something like a twist tie, or string, put that in another bag and close that also. If you prevent the air from being exchanged from the inside of the case to ambient (this happens when atmospheric pressure changes) you can maintain the same humidity for a very long time. Then put the guitar in case in plastic bags in a closet in a good spot in a house where the temperature will not change much.
 
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ryan -
A low action can be had on a cheap or a very expensive guitar.
Some outrageously expensive guitars have high action, and can't be brought down because of a bad neck angle or high bridge [not the saddle]. Setting the nut slot heights, adjusting the neck bow by the truss rod, and setting the bridge saddle are what we can do.

Look for good large frets. they will last longer and can be dressed when they wear, or to initially get them even [yes, even new there can be high/low ones].

And since you are keeping it for years, consider a Yamaha with a solid top. It is a musical instrument. Maybe $50 more, but a really well built guitar. It's a solid top, of course.
An FG730s is about $300 or less. You won't regret it. I have 12 guitars of various sorts.
Electronics? It's up to you. but it's better to get them now than regretting it later.
 
Not to start this argument again, but you don't necessarily want the action to be incredibly low, or your guitar will sound [censored].
You want it just low enough that the guitar is comfortable to play, but not so low that you lose volume and get strings buzzing or slapping against the frets when you play. It's easier to drop the action than it is to raise it, so don't go any lower than you have to.
There are actually 4 factors you can adjust as far as the overall setup goes.
Mechtech 2 didn't mention intonation.

One problem with cheaper guitars is that often the saddle radius doesn't match the neck radius closely enough.

But at this stage, all that is not something for you to worry about.

Anyway, my first guitar was a Takamine, and it cost $700 in 1974.
They're still good guitars these days, as are Alvarez, but you really should consider spending more than $200-300.
Oh yeah, use medium gauge strings, right from the start. You'll soon get used to them the guitar will sound way better than with light gauge.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
ryan -

And since you are keeping it for years, consider a Yamaha with a solid top. It is a musical instrument. Maybe $50 more, but a really well built guitar. It's a solid top, of course.
An FG730s is about $300 or less. You won't regret it. I have 12 guitars of various sorts.
Electronics? It's up to you. but it's better to get them now than regretting it later.



Agree. I love my FG730S. It has a very nice tone IMO especially with some Martin SP strings. Its very nice looking too with its binding on the neck and body and abalone inlay around the sound hole. Even if its not a Yamaha a solid top guitar will only get better with age.
 
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