Good help is hard to find - forgotten seal…

JHZR2

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I know I have a lot of threads about my 2008 ML320 lately. But this is an interesting one for a different reason. The front of my engine was kind of oily. I have a thread about the belt, other threads on brakes, PCV, etc. but I have been trying to figure out why the front of the engine was oily. The intake manifold connects up there, as does the intercooler in/out connections.

Diesels have blowby, and tend to have oil in the intake when the breather system is looped back into it. But two things bugged me. One was a turbo that I considered to be louder than I had expected for the engine, and the second was the oil that I saw on the front of the engine. I could tell that the oil was coming from someplace in the intake system, but it was very difficult to tell where. When I first got the vehicle, I replaced a few of the most well-known culprits for leaks. Everything seemed OK in terms of the quality of the seals I removed, but who knows. The wetness didn’t stop so I decided to pull the entire intake trunk off.

IMG_3341.webp


this unit connects the output of the intercooler together with the left and right bank of the intake, manifold, and blends in the EGR.

IMG_3346.webp


The oil wasn’t coming from the intake at the engine. I could tell that from looking at what was the most wet. I also knew that there was a lot of oil residue at my alternator, which was very concerning. I knew it had to be from over there.

Perhaps from the oil leak intake air temperature sensor?

IMG_3348.webp


Or maybe someplace else? So I decided to take apart all of the sections of the intake to replace the internal seals.

IMG_3355.webp


IMG_3354.webp


That red seal was not there when I pulled the two halves apart! Sure, there’s a meeting surface that is pretty smooth and pretty flat, and bolted together in four spots. But it was not enough to prevent all of the leakage of turbo boost, and the oil vapor that was with it.

The turbo is never that oily.

IMG_3299.webp


But enough pressurized mist was coming out to make a big mess.

IMG_3291.webp
IMG_3344.webp


I guess it was good to renew the PCV system regardless. But it’s just incredible to me that all of this was due to somebody at the dealership being careless when they were working on the car.

I’m also a little bit surprised that given the seepage and what must have been loss of boost, that no check engine lights were ever set off, and that I could still get over 26 mpg.

I do have to wonder if I will see a decent economy improvement given the efficiency increase of at least the turbo. I guess what was really happening was the loss of boost behaved kind of like a stuck open waist gate. And given that his engine makes plenty of power for my needs, And that I don’t really drive it high boost very often, perhaps the turbo just had enough overhead to provide what was needed.

Knocking on wood, that things will stay nice and dry for a while!
 
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Been fighting this battle for 2 years. Shop #1: My manual transmission was allegedly rebuilt, and appears to have been put back together with no new RTV or seals. Including the input shaft seal, which was putting a tablespoon of oil on my garage floor every night. Shop #2: took the transmission out and resealed it, and missed a few things while putting everything back together. An air intake tube that provides the engine computer with cool air was completely missing, speed sensor for the speedometer was left unplugged, and not so critical, but irritating, a body plug was left out of the fender well, leaving a gaping hole. I drove over there on a Saturday when they are closed and caught some guys doing a little moonlighting, they helped me search the shop from top to bottom for the inside tube and found it. Spoke with the front desk lady who admitted that she found it blowing around out in the field behind their shop.

Folks aren't careful anymore, I guess because there's just no recourse for bad work. Give customers a smile and a shoulder shrug, tell them "it is what it is" - our new standard.
 
After you get everything back together, and are convinced the problem is solved, give that thing a good soaking with Simple Green on a COLD engine. Then rinse it with a low pressure garden hose.

Simple Green really works well as a degreaser, and it won't harm plastic and rubber. I've been using it on my truck for the last 34 years.

View attachment 281546
Looks great! Does your truck have an iron block/head, or aluminum?

I am very tempted to do exactly what you said, at least with dilute SG. But I have concerns with its effect on Aluminum, and also if it will strip grease out of pulley bearings.
 
Looks great! Does your truck have an iron block/head, or aluminum?

I am very tempted to do exactly what you said, at least with dilute SG. But I have concerns with its effect on Aluminum, and also if it will strip grease out of pulley bearings.
The heads are cast iron, but the intake is Aluminum. I use Simple Green straight from the bottle on a cold engine. I just back it out of the garage, then shut it off.

I buy it in the gallon jugs, and apply it full strength with one of those cheapie pump up, 1/2 gallon insecticide sprayers from Harbor Freight. That way you can get more on, and your fingers won't fall off, trying to use a trigger spray. Pump it up good, and it will shoot it all the way to the firewall, if you're standing in front of the hood.

After I soak everything good, I rinse it with a garden hose, with whatever nozzle is attached to it. Don't be afraid to get everything wet. Rinse it good to be sure you get all the Simple Green flushed off.

Then I hit it with compressed air, and blow off as much water as I can. Especially all of the puddles that form around any depressions in the manifolds, spark plugs, injectors, etc. After that I fire it up, and let it run until it's good and hot.

Then I hit the rubber and plastic with Armorall, or whatever dressing you prefer. It doesn't take long, and you'll be happy with the results.

https://www.harborfreight.com/05-gallon-multipurpose-sprayer-56167.html
 
After you get everything back together, and are convinced the problem is solved, give that thing a good soaking with Simple Green on a COLD engine. Then rinse it with a low pressure garden hose.

Simple Green really works well as a degreaser, and it won't harm plastic and rubber. I've been using it on my truck for the last 34 years.

View attachment 281546
I use Aviation Simple Green. It will not harm aluminum.
 
Looks great! Does your truck have an iron block/head, or aluminum?

I am very tempted to do exactly what you said, at least with dilute SG. But I have concerns with its effect on Aluminum, and also if it will strip grease out of pulley bearings.
Per @Trav I use Aviation Simple Green. It will not harm aluminum.
 
I had a 93 Suburban with a reman 5.7 engine. From a UOA I noticed higher silicon than normal. Started to hunt down the possible cause. I found the TBI was mounted on a spacer with no gasket between them. Someone forgot the gasket when putting things back together after the rebuild. Unknown if a major culprit in the higher than normal silicon listed in UOA. But I got a gasket from the dealer.
 
Been fighting this battle for 2 years. Shop #1: My manual transmission was allegedly rebuilt, and appears to have been put back together with no new RTV or seals. Including the input shaft seal, which was putting a tablespoon of oil on my garage floor every night. Shop #2: took the transmission out and resealed it, and missed a few things while putting everything back together. An air intake tube that provides the engine computer with cool air was completely missing, speed sensor for the speedometer was left unplugged, and not so critical, but irritating, a body plug was left out of the fender well, leaving a gaping hole. I drove over there on a Saturday when they are closed and caught some guys doing a little moonlighting, they helped me search the shop from top to bottom for the inside tube and found it. Spoke with the front desk lady who admitted that she found it blowing around out in the field behind their shop.

Folks aren't careful anymore, I guess because there's just no recourse for bad work. Give customers a smile and a shoulder shrug, tell them "it is what it is" - our new standard.

Happens all the time and it is so annoying. I have a Borla ATAK catback on the 2014 Mustang, years ago I had to have the fuel filler neck replace because of a code and it was under extended warranty. The tech at my work, who no longer works here, also had a 2014 Mustang GT and was excited to do the job. I got it back and it was obvious the exhaust was banging against either the body or the rear axle because he didn't line it all up. A few days after the repair, another tech walked in to parts and gave me the little sleeve that my wheel lock key should have been in, they never bothered to put it back. Fast forward to this Monday, I put in a Ford Racing driveshaft which required the exhaust to come out. I spent some time just adjusting everything and no bangs, but there is a slight exhaust leak because I just gave the clamps a sungga dugga to get a couple heat cycles in them. I will tighten them on Friday when I go back to my friends house to use his lift.
 
Per @Trav I use Aviation Simple Green. It will not harm aluminum.
I found this to be a good alternative and much cheaper when the Aviation was scarce as hens teeth and if you could find it it was way expensive. I rebuild some boat injectors that have aluminum housings that need cleaning and uses cadmium plated hardware. It does not harm anything even sitting for a couple of days.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simple-Green-Pro-HD-Heavy-Duty-Cleaner-1-Gallon-2110000413421/100550784

https://simplegreen.com/products/pro-hd-cleaner-degreaser/
 
The heads are cast iron, but the intake is Aluminum. I use Simple Green straight from the bottle on a cold engine. I just back it out of the garage, then shut it off.

I buy it in the gallon jugs, and apply it full strength with one of those cheapie pump up, 1/2 gallon insecticide sprayers from Harbor Freight. That way you can get more on, and your fingers won't fall off, trying to use a trigger spray. Pump it up good, and it will shoot it all the way to the firewall, if you're standing in front of the hood.

After I soak everything good, I rinse it with a garden hose, with whatever nozzle is attached to it. Don't be afraid to get everything wet. Rinse it good to be sure you get all the Simple Green flushed off.

Then I hit it with compressed air, and blow off as much water as I can. Especially all of the puddles that form around any depressions in the manifolds, spark plugs, injectors, etc. After that I fire it up, and let it run until it's good and hot.

Then I hit the rubber and plastic with Armorall, or whatever dressing you prefer. It doesn't take long, and you'll be happy with the results.

https://www.harborfreight.com/05-gallon-multipurpose-sprayer-56167.html
I’ve wanted to do this with my truck. I’ve never washed under the hood.

But I always figured introducing water could do more harm than good.

Same with my zero turn mower - I don’t wash it - I just blow off with my leaf blower.

I suppose if I put a ziploc or the like over the alternator and other electrical components, and blew it out with the leaf blower afterwards, it would probably be OK.
 
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