Going up a grade

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Back in the 1980's through the 90's when my father towed his 8,000 lb travel trailer during the summer months he would often go up a grade say 10w30 to a 10w40, 20w50 or even a HEDO 15w40 in several tow rigs over the years it never seemed to be an issue and his trucks always ran great.

Is it still a common practice to do this and is there any evidence that going up a grade when towing heavy loads is any better for the engine?
 
Well, it's a tough question to answer, any time where the engine is being run very hard say running on a race track the engine will produce a lot of heat, and oil temperature will also rise, soa thicker oil would be beneficial just to be safe, GM for example recomends 5w30 Mobil 1 for normal road use and 15W-50 on the track.
Towing a trailer is not as tough on the engine and on the oil as driving around a track, unless you are constantly at wide open throttle, so towing i wouldn't imagine you would see many benefits by running a thicker oil than what is recomended, i have certainly not seen or heard any engine failures from it.
 
You'd have revs to go with it and plenty of pressure. I'd only consider it if the coolant temp was consistently above thermostat temp... and then I'd look into better cooling.

Yeah oil temp can gain "some" over and above that.

You want the thick film if "lugging" and modern automatics aren't going to allow that. And in the 80's and 90's we locked out overdrive and drove in 3rd to now blow up the AODEs and 700R4s.
 
It depends on the particular engine in question. If the oil temp gauge (not the idiot light) shows insufficient pressure under a given circumstance it would help to correct the pressure, but apart from that circumstance I don't see any benefit.
Remember, as thin as possible & as thick as necessary.
 
All of our Subaru manuals contain the following recommendation, so Subaru clearly saw a benefit:


If the vehicle is used in desert areas, in areas with very high temperatures, or used for heavy-duty applications such as towing a trailer, use of oil with the following grade and viscosities is recommended.

API classification SL (or SJ): SAE viscosity No.: 30, 40, 10W-50, 20W-40, 20W-50
 
Id be more concerned about the trans having a cooler. I dont think the oils of today have issue towing especially syn which handles heat better.
 
Firstly, in decades past there was more need to move up a grade or more when running the engine hard - lube tech has improved substantially since then and that's not as much of an issue now. My dad would always go between 10w40 and 20w50 seasonally in the '86 Chevy K20 he bought new - an expert he's not, but that engine has 361,000 mi. on it and wasn't the reason he quit driving the truck in '08, so I don't think it hurt it.

If the owners manual allows/recommends different oil for severe service, then by all means follow it - heavy loads mean more heat and stress and the manufacturer knows when CAFE-induced oil weight recommendations need beefed up to keep the thing in one piece. However, with today's more resilient oils, depending on the engine and oil used it may be better to stay with the same grade and find a better quality oil instead.

For instance, my '85 GMC (454) had 77,000 mi. on it when I got it. I was 18 so of course I tried several different oils. Dad's recommendation was, "It's a big block, you need thick oil in it if you do much of any pulling with it or you'll be looking through it" but after one or two changes with Valvoline VR1 20w50 (for the ZDDP) I bowed to my better judgement and outside opinions and tried Valvoline 10w30 conventional with zinc additive. After seeing my idle oil pressure drop about 40% after not even 3,000 mi. on that I shyed away from thin conventionals and landed on Schaeffer's 7000 15w40, which I was very satisfied with for the next 35,000 mi. Then last year, after several years of casual learning about oils and debunking some myths I'd believed I decided to try Schaeffer's 7000 10/30 and am even more pleased than with their 15w40 - the difference between the two weights was immedately noticeable in engine feedback and throttle input, and after almost 5,000 mi. and some pretty tough hauls (one with a 31' travel trailer in 95* ambient temps that forced me to baby it to keep below 210*) my idle oil pressure is the same as it was at 0 miles and everything looks peachy otherwise. Point being, in my case a 10/30 with stout thermal and shear properties is just as good or better than a thicker but less stable oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Back in the 1980's through the 90's when my father towed his 8,000 lb travel trailer during the summer months he would often go up a grade say 10w30 to a 10w40, 20w50 or even a HEDO 15w40 in several tow rigs over the years it never seemed to be an issue and his trucks always ran great.

Is it still a common practice to do this and is there any evidence that going up a grade when towing heavy loads is any better for the engine?


Toyota's manuals state that for towing, sustained high speed etc a higher viscosity is required for adequate lubrication. So the practice is not dead. Ford just went back to 5w30 from 5w20 for the 2017 hd pickups in the 6.2L gas engine hmmmm wonder why...
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato


Toyota's manuals state that for towing, sustained high speed etc a higher viscosity is required for adequate lubrication. So the practice is not dead. Ford just went back to 5w30 from 5w20 for the 2017 hd pickups in the 6.2L gas engine hmmmm wonder why...
I hadn't heard that. "The engineers know what they doing, follow the manual to the letter, don't second guess the experts" argument crashes and burns again.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Back in the 1980's through the 90's when my father towed his 8,000 lb travel trailer during the summer months he would often go up a grade say 10w30 to a 10w40, 20w50 or even a HEDO 15w40 in several tow rigs over the years it never seemed to be an issue and his trucks always ran great.

Is it still a common practice to do this and is there any evidence that going up a grade when towing heavy loads is any better for the engine?


Toyota's manuals state that for towing, sustained high speed etc a higher viscosity is required for adequate lubrication. So the practice is not dead. Ford just went back to 5w30 from 5w20 for the 2017 hd pickups in the 6.2L gas engine hmmmm wonder why...


Id really like to know the real reason Ford switched....Was there a tsb? id like to see something on paper as to why they switched...its interesting
 
Originally Posted By: Ohle_Manezzini
Towing is as tough as racing since you endup giving wot at lower rpms and some lugging with a hot oil, so going up a grade is good.
WOT at low or moderate speed won't get the oil as hot as WOT at high engine speeds typical of racing.
 
For my Hyundai / Kia engines the manual states : "5W20 , 5W30 and 10W30 approved with the 30 weight oils being preferred due to load or higher temps . That would appear going up a grade from 20 weight to 30 weight is acceptable if conditions dictate the need to go up a grade .
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
For my Hyundai / Kia engines the manual states : "5W20 , 5W30 and 10W30 approved with the 30 weight oils being preferred due to load or higher temps . That would appear going up a grade from 20 weight to 30 weight is acceptable if conditions dictate the need to go up a grade .

Fuel dilution in GDI engines is another reason to go with the 30 weight. Especially important with longer OCIs.
 
Originally Posted By: CR94
Originally Posted By: Ohle_Manezzini
Towing is as tough as racing since you endup giving wot at lower rpms and some lugging with a hot oil, so going up a grade is good.
WOT at low or moderate speed won't get the oil as hot as WOT at high engine speeds typical of racing.


To some degree, but lower RPM's with WOT can actually cause higher temps if the flow of exhaust is not optimal and causes EGT's to rise, thereby raising overall engine temps considerably. Especially when a stock exhaust system is in play. Sometimes, a high revving engine will have lower temps because exhaust flow is better at those higher revolutions due to tighter pulse width in the exhaust flow. A lot more to take into account. Things external to the engine can affect temps inside the engine.
 
TiredTrucker,

I thought the engine ran cooler in the middle rpms because more oil was flowing......aka the engine was getting bathed in oil versus a light sprinkling/trickling. (E.g. 2800rpm vs 1500rpm)
 
Try a thick 20w before you go up to 30w. Castrol Magnatec or Castrol EDGE Extended Performance.
 
It stands to reason engine temps could come down with a bump from "low" to moderate RPM's - higher coolant and oil flow to dissipate heat, etc. For instance, in the average older gas truck, when towing a load that puts quite a strain on the powertrain, would it not be easier on said powertrain to pull a hill with part throttle at 2,800-3,000 in straight drive vs. WOT at 1,800-2,000 in OD?
 
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