This is the $13 gauge on Amazon that I recommend. The knurled textured QD coupler is sturdier than the other charging hoses with the smooth rimmed coupler.
Going to try an AC recharge kit, should I add oil or UV dye?
- Thread starter jayjr1105
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It doesn't sound like he's going to take it to a shop for a quick fix. And I doubt he's looking to keep his 20 year old car until the cows come home. But if he can get thru the rest of summer with a cheap fix, I'm willing to bet he'll take the easy cheap route. And as a side effect, have cold air blowing on him for less than what a world class air conditioning repair would cost.,,
Most of the recharge kits have a leak detector in them.
Still runs and shifts great with no rust in the northeast. Trying to keep her going as long as possible.
Filter from the oil port in the accumulator clogged up with brown stop leak material...
Oh he's got the receipts!! Nice work.
I asked my local Indy guy about people bringing in cars with a stop leak product in the A/C system and how does he deal with the issue with his A/C machine. He said if it's there the filter will filter it out. So he does not check for stop leak nor worry about it.
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Last week I grabbed a can of ac dye and dumped it into my RAM to find a small leak and the line froze solid and it stopped cooling. In small print the can said contains stop leak and seal conditioner. It apparently clogged up the lines and would barely cool. On the way home yesterday it broke loose and all of a sudden I had ice cold air so at least it all ended well
. If you use it add it slowly.How do you know that's what that is?. I could have been in the system from the time the car was made. Do you have pictures like that from other cars, or just from yours?.,,
You've made up your mind and no proof would be good enough for you.
You could say the same thing about everybody who posted on here. Alot of claims, but no absolute proof. Wouldn't you think that if all the companies that make freon with a stop leak additive, would have been sued out of existence if their products caused all the problems people here say they do?. But low and behold, every auto parts stores have shelves full of the products. Why do you think that is?.,,
Almost certainly you have a leak. So the shop needs to fix the leak and then vacuum check and fill with R134a.
You may have got a bad gauge. Have another vehicle you can test it on?
I do, give me 10-20 min
Not a bad gauge, went even higher on the Mazda until I turned on the car and AC on full blast, then it was perfect. I guess low pressure side reads high until the compressor actually kicks on, in which the Van is not. So perhaps it is just low and compressor not kicking on. I'll leave it for the shop to figure out.
After starting the car with AC on...
After starting the car with AC on...
Correct, the compressor is not cycling on resulting in the incorrect gauge reading. You don't really have anything to lose (assuming your can doesn't have stop leak in it), so just add some refrigerant and see if the compressor will engage. If it does, great! Proceed with the recharge.
Honestly, I would do the DIY recharge and see how long it lasts. If it lasts years, then I'd just keep recharging it overtime. A leak is probably not worth fixing on such an old vehicle. Stock up on R134A before it's outlawed everywhere, and be aware of R12A that is often labeled as R134A replacement.
Honestly, I would do the DIY recharge and see how long it lasts. If it lasts years, then I'd just keep recharging it overtime. A leak is probably not worth fixing on such an old vehicle. Stock up on R134A before it's outlawed everywhere, and be aware of R12A that is often labeled as R134A replacement.
That 100+ psi reading shown in Post #32 is indicative of the "average" pressure reading within the sealed system since the Low pressure (suction) side has reached equilibrium with the High pressure (discharge) side of the system. This occurs within a few minutes of the compressor shutting off. The compressor must be engaged and rotating to get a valid reading on the Low pressure side with your gauge. Since the 2005 Odyssey's low pressure shut-off protection switch trips offline below ~25 psi, your system has enough R-134a charge to close the contacts on the switch.
As such, the problem is either in the A/C magnetic clutch or in the electrical signal circuit powering the clutch (e.g., wiring, relay, fuses, control panel, PCM). If you can connect a test light to the 12V (+) wire lead feeding the compressor, it should illuminate when the PCM sends the signal to turn on the compressor. Alternately, you can jumper 12V (+) to the clutch signal wire with the engine cut off and see if the clutch plate engages. If it does not engage, you have a defective electromagnet coil or excessive clutch plate air gap.
As such, the problem is either in the A/C magnetic clutch or in the electrical signal circuit powering the clutch (e.g., wiring, relay, fuses, control panel, PCM). If you can connect a test light to the 12V (+) wire lead feeding the compressor, it should illuminate when the PCM sends the signal to turn on the compressor. Alternately, you can jumper 12V (+) to the clutch signal wire with the engine cut off and see if the clutch plate engages. If it does not engage, you have a defective electromagnet coil or excessive clutch plate air gap.
On Odysseys, I believe some of the AC clutch relays are suspect quality. And I think that they may be swappable for another one of the relays. So you could pop open the underhood fuse box and swap the AC relay as an easy troubleshoot.
Clutch relays, Compressors & the magnetic clutch itself....Many Honda models besides the Odyssey as well.
