going from synthetic to dino? (also lowest $ usable filter)

[853okg]

Originally Posted by ctechbob
[/quote]
The OP has a plethora of filter options, but for my Honda V6 (98 Acura) there are very, very few choices.....


NSX?
[/quote]

I only wish. 3.2 TL. I do remember the TV ad where they tried to emphasize the similarity of the two. But no.

 

[Shannow]

0W just simply isn't required for the majority of the US and Canada.

The fact that you can "only" get 0W with synthetics is not demonstrable of superiority in cases where 0W simply isn't required...like most everywhere (Oh, and BTW there are 0W syn blends, Klondike had/has one, there are "recipes in Mobil's blend guide)).

Which "stringent specs" can synths only meet...just a few would be useful...and how are they superior in the OP's high mileage, 15 year old case.

Bear in mind, we aren't talking your new Vette, this is the OP's reason for asking the questions.

 

[Patman]

I wasn't specifically talking about using synthetics in this 15 year old vehicle, I was responding to alarmguy's outlandish question asking "why on earth do people think synthetic is better?" I think it's safe to say we all know on here that synthetic is technically better than conventional oil. Whether or not someone needs it for their particular situation is up to them, but you can't argue with the fact that synthetics outperform conventionals in many ways.

 

[Patman]

And as far as which specs can only synths meet, I'm pretty sure that all of the big European specs for MB, BMW, Porsche, etc, will not be met with a conventional.

 

[ctechbob]

Quote


I only wish. 3.2 TL. I do remember the TV ad where they tried to emphasize the similarity of the two. But no.


Interesting, never had to work on one of those. Must be a space issue. The specs for the filter match up with every other Honda filter ever (almost) used so they must have had to shoehorn it in somewhere.

Ohh, right, I forgot about the "C" engines. I always forget there was another series before they started making the "J" series.

 

[gotnogunk]

Just my opinion you can get a major name synthetic for $12 plus change if you don't mind rebates or wal mart or meijers or rural king etc for the same, ALL good. Many good filters for around $3.50 or less IF you look around.

 

[OilUzer]

I have lots of 5Wx30 and 10Wx30 Chevron Supreme from Costco.Its a good oil.
Also have some dino Pennzoil and Castrol
When I need 7.5Wx30 I just do a 50/50 mix of 5W and 10W

 

[fdcg27]

As I've noted before in threads concerning timing belt Honda engines, I'd be a lot more concerned about whether and how recently the timing belt service was done as well as the quality of parts used in doing it.
The engine will be okay with any oil and filter you'd care to use while a timing belt failure, or one involving anything it runs on will be fatal to the engine.

 

[columnshift]

Originally Posted by DIANgEMinONV
Mobil 1 runs their rebates twice a year, and a synthetic costs around $12 after a rebate. The same with Pennzoil. .


Hmm okay i've never gone synthetic before, when do they do their rebates or is it random? Maybe i'll stock up next time they do it.


Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Switch back and forth as much as you like. But in your location a synthetic would prob help with start ups in the morning or in cold temps. Then go back to conventional in the summer if you want..

The more important thing is to do regular drain and fills on the transmission with oem Honda atf. This is easier than doing an oil change since there's no filter to mess with.


That's a good point, since we get pretty cold here (minnesota) it's prob not bad in winter, esp if I can get a good deal.

News to me on draining the transmission - is that something listed as suggested maintenance from the factory or just something people have figured out? The prev owner did whatever the stealership told him - including a 'transmiission flush' that killed the transmission at 105k just after extended warranty ran out. >_< It's 178k now - so the suggested process is just to drain and fill with the right amount, nothing special?

 

[columnshift]

Originally Posted by jongies3
It's a Honda, it'll probably go 300k on vegetable oil. There's nothing wrong with switching back and forth between the two! And you need to visit the oil filter section, it's been proven many times that FRAM makes a great filter.


Even the cheap FRAMs? The only thing stuck in my mind is a cutapart video from youtube I saw showing a FRAM so poorly made the element wasnt even properly mounted so oil at the end of the filter wouldnt even get filtered. That alarmed me.

I'm less worried about the engine than the rest of the car - the trans got redone at 105k, but how long wlil those 5 speed autos last? Even if properly rebuilt? (and I dont know how well rebuilt it was just that a dealer did something that cost $3500 and he was pretty annoyed at it which I would be too) I figure if the trans dies in the future, what does it matter the engine would've gone another 50k... i'm not sure i'll be up for a transmission swap unless I ultra fall in love with the car. But it's already 15 years old...


Originally Posted by BrocLuno
Have never been able to find any professional papers that say synthetics are any better at actual lubrication than a quality dino ... They do offer some advantages at the low and high end of the temp range

I'm willing to accept that while the oil is warmed up and changed properly and such, but i'll tip my hat to the idea that until it's at warmed up temperature cold start wear is going to matter more than probably a 500 mile trip. I used to take nothing but 500 mile trips in my Saturn so I didn't care about bothering with a synthetic, but now i'm switching to heavy city use so i'm still catching up on the things I ideally should be reading.

Like the oil filter section here with pictures - lots of info - but I dont even know what i'm looking for.

I'd be happy to just get the final conclusions from people until I have the time to research deeper...

Also I tend to change oil more often than "necessary" as my main concession to removing crap from the engine. (including winter clouding and stuff which cant be filtered out - anything else chemical that would get into the oil wouldn't filter either) That was my dads strategy and it seemed to work for him... i'm just sticking with it until I research better. He wanted me to change every 2000-2500 miles like clockwork, I doubt i'll exceed 3000 at worst tho for the next few cuz I wonder if he overdid it.


Originally Posted by Linctex
Originally Posted by dwendt44
. No name or off brand filters are worthless.

My 2¢


Based on what?

We have been seeing some AMAZING cut-n-post pictures on here lately from foreign filters after being used in normal intervals.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forums/6/1/engine-oil-filters


What am I looking for in those cut and post pictures though? I see a huge amount of posts and i'm not sure how to compile that into an easy answer of "what filters to buy"...

 

[columnshift]

Originally Posted by Patman
I wasn't specifically talking about using synthetics in this 15 year old vehicle, I was responding to alarmguy's outlandish question asking "why on earth do people think synthetic is better?" I think it's safe to say we all know on here that synthetic is technically better than conventional oil. Whether or not someone needs it for their particular situation is up to them, but you can't argue with the fact that synthetics outperform conventionals in many ways.


Well thats just it. I agree synthetics are better - but is it really going to make a difference in my situation? It sounds like my engine will last 300k just fine on dino oil. I question whether the transmission will. Since I dont think i'll be up to a transmission swap at that time, is the normal cost difference worth it?


Originally Posted by fdcg27
As I've noted before in threads concerning timing belt Honda engines, I'd be a lot more concerned about whether and how recently the timing belt service was done as well as the quality of parts used in doing it.
The engine will be okay with any oil and filter you'd care to use while a timing belt failure, or one involving anything it runs on will be fatal to the engine.


I'd be 90% sure the timing belt was done whenever the dealer scheduled - i'm guessing near 100k - the guy always listened to his stealership including when they told him to backflush the transmission and it killed it. But they wouldn't have told him to NOT do something they could sell him as a service.

I suppose my next timing belt service would be what, 200-210k then? About 20-30,000 miles off? I hope it's not too horrific to do... :- / I still have a Honda 4cyl half apart for a year that I haven't finished the timing belt on because it's confusing to me... (another car "not worth paying others to fix" due to resale value)

 

[anndel]

I would run Mobil 1 High Mileage and a Fram Ultra filter. Go 7500 miles then change the oil collect/send a sample to Blackstone Labs for oil analysis which gives hints on engine condition. Then follow their advice as they may say go 10000 on your next change.