GM synchromesh Friction Modified details please

[6spdkeg]

So I bought 4 quarts of GM synchromesh Friction Modified from a GM dealer. Read some good reviews and I have a little notchyness in my 2008 Civic Si with K20Z3 motor with 6spd. I'm 2nd guessing my decision mainly b/c I found that the viscosity of it @ 40degC is lighter than the normal GM synchromesh which was unexpected.

Anyone have the real deal data sheet for the Friction modified stuff?

All I have is the AC delco friction modified sheet showing it's at 35 cSt @ 40degC and the reg non-FM stuff is at 41.6 cSt at 40degC. Doesn't state 100degC viscosity.
http://www.koiauto.com/msds/AC_Delco/Acdelco_104016.pdf


I know penzoil synchromesh is the same as the GM stuff so here's the details on it
http://www.pennzoil.com/#/transmission-f...nsmission-fluid
http://www.pennzoil.com/documents/Synchromesh Manual Trans Fluid.pdf


Flashpoint temp of the Friction modified stuff says 305F.
Should I be worried to use this stuff during 25 minute HPDE tracks days?

Thinking I maybe should have just got Amsoil MTF 5W-30 full synthetic.. .

Thanks


reference of S2000s with success with this newer FM oil
http://www.koiauto.com/msds/AC_Delco/Acdelco_104016.pdf

 

[6spdkeg]

no help?

AT 14,500 miles on my car with the same on the tranny oil. Need to do a change. should I use the GM synchromesh FM or get something different?

 

[INDYMAC]

I have used GMSMFM in a 2004 S2000. I've also used the old Honda MTF, the new Honda MTF, and a 60/40 blend of AMSOIL MTF/MTG. Here's how I rank them for notchiness improvement:

1. New Honda MTF
2. GMSMFM
3. Old Honda MTF
4. AMSOIL blend

I have not tried AMS MTF and MTG separately, but other S2000 owners have with good success.

I hope this helps some, even though I couldn't answer your question specifically.

 

[6spdkeg]

hmm, so new Honda MTF is suppose to be better than GMSMFM huh? I didn't think that would be the case.

so basically I just need to change the Honda MTF more often??

And I guess I just bought $45 worth of oil to flush my transmission out with lol! (4 quarts)

For the race track, I think I might go with the Amsoil Synthetic 5W-30 and add their MTG at 25% ratio. The Si has a mechanical LSD which I think still needs some extreme pressure lube/friction modifiers for longevity and to work optimally.

I do plan on having this car around for the next 4 years at minimum.

 

[unDummy]

If its a helical diff, friction makes it work.

Honda MTF is a ~30wt. See the UOA section.

Redline MTL, BG SyncroshiftII, Amsoil MTF, Wynn's TC/MTF, along with Synchromesh are pretty much ~30wt equivalents.

I don't know why you'd want to use a motor oil.

Stick with like fluids when blending. Amsoil MTG + MTF, Redline MT90 + MTL....if you want to blend your own weight.

Typically, thicker protects better until it becomes a flow issue. Higher additive level protects better until corrosion(if unbuffered or overextended).

Thicker also could cause shift issues, like the shifter stirring honey or molasses. This is a big issue with the limp wristed crybabies buying manual trans these days. Doesn't help that rod linkages are replaced with cables for easier routing of shift mechanicals. Add in excessive drivetrain movement caused by smooth soft wimpy isolating/insulating mounts and cost cutting to keep the wallet happy, all adds to manual issues.

What do you want? shift quality? transmission longevity? balance(which is usually the factory fill)?

 

[INDYMAC]

Just take the GMSMFM back for a refund. It costs twice as much as the Honda MTF, so you'll be a happy camper.

Every MTF that I've tried seems to last around 5-10K miles in my car. So yes, you will probably be changing it out often.

If you want, try the AMS MTF. Some say that it lasts the longest of all of them. How much notchiness you are willing to accept is a subjective thing. Only you can decide when it's time to change the fluid.

 

[6spdkeg]

Ohhh I want it all guys! I was talking about the Amsoil MTG that is a 5-30 weight.

I'm far from a limp wristed shifter and no I didn't take that as a direct bash.

yes the car has soft mounts and a shatty cable setup. I've moded the mounts with 3M window weld and it helped notchyness for a while but along with the mounts wearing out, the tranny fluid has too.. . I'm buying some better product to fill another set of mounts I have so they will be more like race mounts (80A)

since the car is an 08, I think I'm actually going to take it to the dealer and have them drive it as it is, tell me if they think the oil is causing the notchyness and an occasional 1-2 grind. Maybe they will give me an oil change for free. doesn't hurt to get the issue documented and a service note on my Carfax.

gotta go find that GM receipt.. .

I'm coming to the concensus MTF oil in Arizona will only last 10,000 miles unless it's full synthetic.

 

[Mr Nice]

I would use

1. Amsoil
2. Honda MTF

 

[mechtech2]

6spdkeg - Since there are not piles of cars on the road in AZ with 10,001 miles on them, it is silly to state that dino is no good for such a short term.

Good options are Redline or Amsoil.
What only one guy feels in one car may be quite different from yours.
You gotta try it and see. Give it 2-500 miles before judgement.

 

[6spdkeg]

I've pretty much found a (internet) consensus from S2000, miata and others that most Dino Tranny oils on these sophisticated trannies just don't last long. I have tripple synchros 1st through 4th and double from 4-5 and 5-6. Even with little power, I think these K20 trannies shear up oil quickly.

Like I said before though, I think it's more than just the oil, it's the smushyness of the engine mounts effecting cable shifts as well as the rev hang I get which is mainly caused by the OEM tune and heavy flywheel.

Thanks for the replies guys!