GM parts counter U/L Control Arms

[outrun]

Quick question,

I am researching aftermarket control arms. Do you know if GM Control Arms are "unloaded" or come with pre-pressed in Bushings? Of course, I am expecting to buy the ball joints separately. GM are not saints they are business people

I was considering aftermarket race type units but further readings on the problems with Polurethane bushings turned me off. Now I am considering factory GM 1LE track pieces using harder durometer rubber bushings.

2nd question are GM/AC Delco replacement suspension pieces "lubed for life" type or greasable or both? My car has lubed for life tie rods, ball joints etc. However replacement pieces by MOOG and Spicer for my car are all greasable.

Thanks-

Final question on front end work. Is it wise to wait till tie rod, ball joint, etc play or pre-emptively replace them? My ball joints have no play, nor do they have a wear indicator either.

 

[Oil stain]

quote:

---

Originally posted by outrun:
Quick question,

I am researching aftermarket control arms. Do you know if GM Control Arms are "unloaded" or come with pre-pressed in Bushings? Of course, I am expecting to buy the ball joints separately. GM are not saints they are business people

-------------------------------------------------
The bushings in the control arms are bonded to the control arms. In order to replace the bushings of any type, they must be cut out or burned out using a torch. Check out this website www.p-s-t.com. They sell complete kits including the ball joints, tie rod ends and bushings .
-------------------------------------------------


I was considering aftermarket race type units but further readings on the problems with Polurethane bushings turned me off. Now I am considering factory GM 1LE track pieces using harder durometer rubber bushings.

2nd question are GM/AC Delco replacement suspension pieces "lubed for life" type or greasable or both? My car has lubed for life tie rods, ball joints etc. However replacement pieces by MOOG and Spicer for my car are all greasable.
------------------------------------------------
I think all replacement parts from GM have a grease fitting, only from the factory do they have sealed units .
------------------------------------------------


Thanks-

Final question on front end work. Is it wise to wait till tie rod, ball joint, etc play or pre-emptively replace them? My ball joints have no play, nor do they have a wear indicator either.
-------------------------------------------------
That's a tuff question to answer, you can never go wrong replacing parts before there time, As stated above, PST sell the whole kit. I'm using there kit and I like it.

---

-------------------------------------------------

 

[cousincletus]

Why are you replacing? I replaced a bent control on a friend's 1993 Grand Am with a junkyard unit for 25 bucks from a low mileage wreck. I think the dealer wanted about 150 bucks for a new one.

 

[The_Jeff]

A lot of GM control arms have the ball joints riveted in. Aftermarket ball joints get a nut and bolt. (Serviceability should have been considered here.)

The rivets are monsters that are no fun to remove.

I grind 'em on the ball joint side, and grind into the metal of the ball joint a little. Don't want to mess up the control arm I'll be reusing.

Then with a 1/8" drill I put holes in the remaining rivet at 12 and 6 o'clock. This is tedious. Go slow and don't snap the bit.

With the holes in place I hit what's left with the air chisel and out it comes.

GM could have shaved hours off a ball joint job by spending the extra nickel for a nut and bolt fastening system.

I assume when you mention upper and lower, this is some RWD or truck job?

 

[Clyde65]

quote:

---

Then with a 1/8" drill I put holes in the remaining rivet at 12 and 6 o'clock. This is tedious. Go slow and don't snap the bit.

---

How big are these rivits you're talking about?

The rivits I've drilled have only been about a 1/4 inch diameter and the 1/8 hole drilled through the center of them weakens them significantly. Then I just hit them from the side with a small chisel and bam, their off, no grinder neccessary.

One more thing eljefino, I use a center punch on the rivit to mark the drill spot; that way there is no wandering bit.

 

[johnd]

I always just used a chisel. It is kind of satisfying to bend something to your will with a BMF hammer. I will make a confession that I hold the shank of the chisel with pliers when I hit it. I do have strong self preservatory skills.

 

[Jim Spahr]

Look at the Global wEst aftermarket control arms. They are made of welded tubes, not stamped steel. As to the 'unloaded' question, ask the GM counter parts man. His computer will tell you whats included.

 

[The_Jeff]

Bonneville. No fun. 3/8" diameter, times 3.

Same ball joint from 84-99 though, and they were $12 each.

That makes up for my drill bit and grinding wheel collection being depleted.