GM 5.3 engine with 4 speed AT

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Considering this combo. on a Suburban/Tahoe after being in Mopar products the last 15 years. After a bit of research on the 5.3, it looks solid. Any input on it?

I'm also very in the dark on this transmission. Anyone with knowledge care to share your experience? Stout? Temperamental? Reliable with service? Expensive to rebuild?

Mileage wise, I'm considering vehicles in the 70K to 120K range and hope to drive to 200k. Thanks.
 
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I had an 03 Yukon with that combo....I loved it. Easy to maintain...I bought it with 50K miles and got rid of it with 100K. I did many drain and fills with supertechs Dex VI which has a license. So the fluid was cheap. The transmission is not its strong point but can be reliable with proper care and not working it to death from what I experienced and have read online....however if you do need it rebuilt which you will eventually ...its not expensive and you can rebuild it to take care of its weak spots to make it very reliable.
 
Yea not the best gas mileage compared to newer 5/6 speed versions but pretty bullet proof if it was maintained and you keep it up as well.

Motor is LS based and that trans has been around for a long time. Just drop the pan and change filter every 30k and that's all. No flush's needed, just the pan and fill.
 
I have the combo in my 08 Z71. It is bullet proof, but it's not the most fuel efficient. About 16-17mpg. Change oil and service the transmission and it will last a long time for you.

I wish I had the six speed transmission, but the 4 speed versions are more affordable.
 
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There are things to look for. Like rusting exhaust manifold bolts that fall off allowing the manifold to separate from the head. Might need the knock sensors replaced but its not a big deal. The hidden weak spots are the front diff and transfer case. People don't change the fluid and you get problems. Hard to see during inspection. As far as the transmission the 1-2 shift is a little rough but you get used to it. Kind of clunky in and out of gear. The drivetrain is a bit loose IMO. My 6.0 which is very similar to the 5.3 doesn't burn a drop of oil. Squeaky clean tailpipe. Verify no oil burning. If the tailpipe is full of carbon you know they are lying walk away. You also have to check on the air leveling system for the towing package. The compressor and rear shocks are good for about 5 years towing or not.

I enjoy working on mine. Its relatively easy. Excluding the transmission. Gotta lower the [censored] exhaust on mine.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
As far as the transmission the 1-2 shift is a little rough but you get used to it.


AcDelco OEM 1-2 Solenoid is, no joke, $10 on Amazon. Also very easy to replace.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
As far as the transmission the 1-2 shift is a little rough but you get used to it.


AcDelco OEM 1-2 Solenoid is, no joke, $10 on Amazon. Also very easy to replace.

I may try that next time I open up. Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
As far as the transmission the 1-2 shift is a little rough but you get used to it.


AcDelco OEM 1-2 Solenoid is, no joke, $10 on Amazon. Also very easy to replace.


A rough/bump 1-2 shift is not caused by a shift solenoid, The ratio jump from 1st(3.06) to 2nd(1.63) is the root cause.
Loose 2/4 Band Clearance, Broken 2nd Accumulator Spring/s, Excessive Accumulator Circuit pressure, To large of a 2nd clutch orifice in the Separator Plate....All aggravate this issue, A loose Band & excessive accumulator pressure are factory installed on all C/K truck 4L60E's.

The 1-2/A Solenoid is turned Off/Exhausts when 2nd gear is commanded, The Solenoids ability to exhaust in a timely manner is not a normal/common mode of failure on this particular unit. I have seen lazy shift solenoids take to long to turn On/Close but not off/exhaust.
In theory, the end screen on the solenoid can become clogged & effect exhaust timing, But at that point you have more wrong than shift solenoids are going to fix
 
Yeah, a bit clunky, especially 1-2, like others have said. Get it to cruising speed and all's good.
smile.gif


I've got an '05 Suburban 1500. It's AWD, which adds a little clunkiness to the equation. Especially when making tighter turns on pavement. Mine only has 105k on it. Only issue I've had is I had to replace the evap vent valve. $20. Mine has the autoride suspension, but no problems yet. It's not rocket science either, though.

A buddy has an '03 Denali. Its trans went out at 205k. I pulled it at my place and took it to a trans shop for rebuild. $900 including torque converter. That's pretty much the going rate around here. I pulled another buddy's 4L60E out of a TrailBlazer and was charged the same price at a different shop. Add a few hours of labor for R&R.

I've got another buddy who has an '03 Suburban he bought brand new. 240k miles and the trans is still going strong. I did replace the brake lines and fuel pump for him in the past few months, though.

Originally Posted By: clinebarger
...The ratio jump from 1st(3.06) to 2nd(1.63) is the root cause. ...


This is one of my biggest dislikes of these vehicles. They fall flat on their face going into 2nd.
 
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If it's an 01-06 make sure the coolant is full. I've seen several of the LS engines with an unhealthy amount of coolant in the oil sump due to the porous head castings they were using. We actually had two traded in in the same day where I work.
 
Originally Posted By: cb_13
If it's an 01-06 make sure the coolant is full. I've seen several of the LS engines with an unhealthy amount of coolant in the oil sump due to the porous head castings they were using. We actually had two traded in in the same day where I work.


Should just be intake gaskets unless it was run low on coolant.

I get better mileage in my 08 Suburban than I did in 11 1500 crew cab with the six speed.
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
A rough/bump 1-2 shift is not caused by a shift solenoid

You're exactly right. My mistake.
 
Perhaps my experience may give you some insight. I have an 09 Z71 Tahoe with 212k so there may be some similarities. I purchased it as it came off lease in 2012 with 55k. It has been one of the most reliable cars I have ever owned.

Here is what it has needed besides normal wear items:

1) All 16 lifters per service bulitan for AFM - covered by factory warranty (78k)
2) Water pump - also covered under power train warranty (86k)
3) Serpantine belt tensioner (160k)
4) Pinion seal and radiator hose (205k)
5) Upper contral arms (209k)

For me it looks like it needs front brakes every 30k with rotors lasting two sets of pads. Rear pads and rotors last 100k for both.

The interior materials are very cheap but seam to manage fine. There a few rattles.

It just started to use some oil so I think I may need to resolve a PCV issue. Other than that I swear it runs smoother now than ever. I always stay on top of all fluid services and regularly do filters, wires plugs etc...

Parts are cheap and easily available. Most work is easy ( brakes, belts, plugs, hoses, fluids etc... ) with super
accessiblity. Keep rust at bay with regular inspections and braking out the occasional wire brush and
rust proofing.

I love the car so much I've decided that even if for some reason the engine blows tomorrow. I'll have it stroked and put in a stick shift.
 
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Originally Posted By: jhellwig
Originally Posted By: cb_13
If it's an 01-06 make sure the coolant is full. I've seen several of the LS engines with an unhealthy amount of coolant in the oil sump due to the porous head castings they were using. We actually had two traded in in the same day where I work.


Should just be intake gaskets unless it was run low on coolant.

I get better mileage in my 08 Suburban than I did in 11 1500 crew cab with the six speed.

No its porous head castings. GM had a tsb for it.
 
Originally Posted By: cb_13
Originally Posted By: jhellwig
Originally Posted By: cb_13
If it's an 01-06 make sure the coolant is full. I've seen several of the LS engines with an unhealthy amount of coolant in the oil sump due to the porous head castings they were using. We actually had two traded in in the same day where I work.


Should just be intake gaskets unless it was run low on coolant.

I get better mileage in my 08 Suburban than I did in 11 1500 crew cab with the six speed.

No its porous head castings. GM had a tsb for it.


Only the "706" Castech castings had issues & even then it was probably a 1% failure rate
 
Originally Posted By: jhellwig
Originally Posted By: cb_13
If it's an 01-06 make sure the coolant is full. I've seen several of the LS engines with an unhealthy amount of coolant in the oil sump due to the porous head castings they were using. We actually had two traded in in the same day where I work.


Should just be intake gaskets unless it was run low on coolant.

I get better mileage in my 08 Suburban than I did in 11 1500 crew cab with the six speed.


Dry intake. No coolant touches it.
 
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Only the "706" Castech castings had issues & even then it was probably a 1% failure rate


People forget the unbelievable production numbers for this engine family. Your chance of getting a bad head is far less than one percent!

A TSB does not indicate anything as far as numbers go. It simply means they are aware of the issue...
 
Originally Posted By: HawkeyeScott
Considering this combo. on a Suburban/Tahoe after being in Mopar products the last 15 years. After a bit of research on the 5.3, it looks solid. Any input on it?

I'm also very in the dark on this transmission. Anyone with knowledge care to share your experience? Stout? Temperamental? Reliable with service? Expensive to rebuild?

Mileage wise, I'm considering vehicles in the 70K to 120K range and hope to drive to 200k. Thanks.

Mind the piston slap. There's a redesign in 2003 that makes them a little better, but the problem is still there

4l60e is pretty weak. The v8 pushes the thing to it's limits. IMO it's better suited for a v6 of the era not a v8

Oil leaks

Steering is weak as a whole, but it's easy and inexpensive to repair

Oil pressure sending units like to leak or take a dump. Everyone will tell you they're hard. They aren't, it's a 10-15 minute job. Use a wobble extension and a thin wall socket.

Wheel bearings like to go around 150k. Easy/cheap to fix

Do a search on transfer case pump rub

Seat heaters like to take a dump. Annoying to replace but not overly difficult

Uhh that's really all that comes to mind at the current moment. I have an '05 tahoe. They have their quirks but it's my favorite vehicle so far

Edit: Oh yeah and mind the cracked heads. Check casting numbers or see if you can get an oil analysis prior to purchase
 
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Another issues is the brake lines...rusty, crusty brake lines with the 800s.

I'm not a professional. Just a guy with a garage in the backyard with a lift. I've done three sets of brake lines on 800s for friends and family. I don't have many friends or family, either.
smile.gif
 
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