Hello, I have a 2005 Chevy Venture with 250k mi on the clock. Today while driving it just completely shut down. Was able to coast to a safe place and tried to restart it and it would turn over but not start. I left it sit for an hour and tried again and it started right up. Drove it home and then around the block a couple of times and it ran normal, also did a code scan and everything was normal. My first thought is the crank sensor and I see this vehicle has two. Any thoughts on if this is a logical first step and if so , is one of the crank sensors more prone to fail than the other?? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
GM 3.4l V6 stalled today!! No codes
- Thread starter JohnMack
- Start date
Thanks for your reply. I completely agree with you but it's a daily driver for the family and I just feel the need to do something. I don't feel comfortable taking it anywhere now knowing it's possiblity going to stall.
You probably don't want to hear this but with 250K miles it's time to think of a new(er) car for the daily driver.
No stored codes? Bad gas? Rainy or misty day?
Bad karma?
No stored codes? Bad gas? Rainy or misty day?
Bad karma?
I think you let him worry about that.
I just put a fuel pump, crank sensor, water pump, and serp belt on a 350,000 mile Camry. Some might even call that crazy but doing the work yourself amounts to less cost than an average car payment.
I had that problem on my ‘92 olds 88 (3800 V6)… it was the crank sensor.
Thanks, everyone for the advice. Based on what I've heard here and elsewhere, I think I'll start with both crank sensors and see what happens. If I still have an issue I'll do the ignition control module.
Have you been having unusually warm weather up there in WI?
Green Bay is pretty much at the end of the pipeline, and will be the last to get low RVP summer gas.
Could be vapor lock.
Green Bay is pretty much at the end of the pipeline, and will be the last to get low RVP summer gas.
Could be vapor lock.
Can you get vapor lock in a car where the fuel system is always pressurized (ie fuel tank mounted electric pump with check valve?)
Thank you, if I cant get it to act up again that's one of the parts in the cannon
Thank you, that never crossed my mind
I would check your fuel line pressure to make sure that it meets the spec. Vapor lock is unlikely in a modern pressurized fuel injection system but it can happen if your fuel pressure is low. I would also check the operation of the pressure regulator as well. At 250k miles it wouldn't surprise me if the fuel pump is going bad. It could be that the motor of the pump itself is going bad and intermittently cutting out. That type of issue is hard to prove without firing the parts cannon. For now check the fuel pressure and volume to see if it meets the spec. Good luck 
I would also recommend checking your fuel pressure.
Our 1992 Olds 88 would die and then later restart and not die again for varying periods of time (3 days to 18 months). Turned out to be a bad ground connection for the fuel pump on the fuel level sending unit which held the fuel pump.
Figured out it was fuel related when the fuel pressure dropped and then the engine died seconds later while I had a fuel pressure test gauge connected. Tried to restart the engine but had zero fuel pressure. 30 minutes later had fuel pressure and then the engine started.
The ground wire involved had melted insulation and there were burn marks on the metal plate surrounding the negative terminal where the wires fed through.
Our 1992 Olds 88 would die and then later restart and not die again for varying periods of time (3 days to 18 months). Turned out to be a bad ground connection for the fuel pump on the fuel level sending unit which held the fuel pump.
Figured out it was fuel related when the fuel pressure dropped and then the engine died seconds later while I had a fuel pressure test gauge connected. Tried to restart the engine but had zero fuel pressure. 30 minutes later had fuel pressure and then the engine started.
The ground wire involved had melted insulation and there were burn marks on the metal plate surrounding the negative terminal where the wires fed through.
Nothing wrong with a high milage daily driver and not everyone is in a position to run out and buy a car.
I'm driving the 02 wrangler I bought new. Currently sitting @212000 miles. The 07 Toyota we bought 9 years ago is @230000.
Thank you!! After getting it restarted and back home, I did a fuel pressure test and looked to be within or close to spec.I would check your fuel line pressure to make sure that it meets the spec. Vapor lock is unlikely in a modern pressurized fuel injection system but it can happen if your fuel pressure is low. I would also check the operation of the pressure regulator as well. At 250k miles it wouldn't surprise me if the fuel pump is going bad. It could be that the motor of the pump itself is going bad and intermittently cutting out. That type of issue is hard to prove without firing the parts cannon. For now check the fuel pressure and volume to see if it meets the spec. Good luck
Resting PSI was 48 and with engine on , I was at 43.
Thank you, I was originally just focusing on changing both crank sensors but now am thinking I need to slow down and also look at fuel related issues as was mentioned here.
I have had one crank sensor go bad on a vehicle. It was extremely difficult to diagnose. The vehicle kept stalling until one day it stalled and wouldn't start back up. The thing was, I was getting no codes on my code reader, but it is a Dodge, and when I checked for codes using the ignition switch while reading the odometer a code for the crank sensor came up. It was easy enough to fix at that point.
