Not to sound like an arrogant poster but you still not getting it, do you? (RE: vacuum_6)
-The proper technical description RE: glazed cylinder walls has to do with the proper machining texture of the wall in preparation for new piston rings to bed in and conform themselves comfortably, which subsequently forms a proper sealing surface(between the rings and the cylinder walls) and texture (for oil film retention and such) for proper oil film retention, etc..
-yes, while it is indeed true that during an engine rebuild, there's likeliness of moly additives in the oil (due to engine assembly lube, moly coated rings for quick seating, or mixed in with cam lube, etc.), truth is, these minute amount of moly isn't enough to cause any significant hindrance to the breaking in of the rings and the properly machined (honed) cylinder walls to cause any further glazing down the road (I have yet to come across 1 single instance of such during my engine rebuild/blueprinting days). Don't believe me? Ask any engine builders/rebuilders about this part then and you'll understand.
- Only an improperly machined (cross-hatched) cylinder wall(s), improperly installed oil control rings, excessive oil pressure (too high of the oil pressure release spring rate),etc. would have caused your "so-called" glazing (or subsequently excessive consumption of motor oil during your 750miles run). Better yet: an engine rebuild job where the guy forgot to hone/deglaze the cylinder walls properly and I've seen this many times before.
Yes, I agree with what doityourself's posting RE: 2 types of glazing so far, the likeliness of observation #1 is fairly remote, IMHO and then only time I've heard this happening was guys using non-detergent SAE 30 (like API SA) on a high powered Vee 8 engine breakin. Any decent high detergent recent API release motor oil shall have the ability to combat the forming of hard carbon deposits on the cylinder walls very nicely and a wet/dry compression test (assuming that the oil control rings are conforming well to the walls with proper tension for oil scraping) shall give you some tell-tale signs. But then again, there's nothing one can be stop from using API SA grade oil during high-power engine break in due to sheer arrogance though...for I've seen this happening with my very own eyes before.
IMHO observation #2 from doitmyself is likely the culprit.
Again, I simply cannot emphasize enough that this is a mechanical issue and you need to look toward that direction(even if it calls for tearing down the engine for inspection). Don't ever think that miracle-in-a-can will help you in this case for afterall, your engine is considered "new" in this case and not worn.
My 2c's worth.
Q.