Getting through emissions testing...

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So I've got a p0420 code on my truck and I'm about to register my truck in oregon next month (it's got washington registration now), I could just renew in WA but since I live in oregon I'd prefer to have it registered here. I've had a p0420 code for a little while now but I've been strapped for cash since I'm a student working part time. The catalytic converter that's in there now was installed about 3 years ago, it's a magnaflow(never buying their garbage again...) and I haven't got any fuel pressure issues, plugs look good, compression is good, cat doesn't rattle, all I can think of as the reason for its failure is because it's an aftermarket part and not oe.
All that aside, I've got enough money saved up to register my truck next month and I'd really hate to have to blow that money on a new cat. I've done a little reading on cleaners that supposedly help you pass emissions but I'm not really convinced. My truck can run on e85 so I was wondering if it may help to fill the tank with that and clear the code before the test. Anybody know?
 
+2 on the warranty, 5 years or 50k for an aftermarket IIRC.

You have to flunk emissions to cash in on the warranty.
 
My toyota manual indicates front and rear O2 sensor should be checked/replaced prior to the converter, as well as making sure there is not a vacuum leak

I had a P0420 code, replaced both sensors and the code did not come back on until last week. The sensors were replaced spring/summer 2011.
 
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Unfortunately magnaflow only has a 2yr warranty on the substrate.... Go figure it fails shortly after that time period has elapsed. I've got an obd scan tool so I can clear the code and wait for everything to reset after a few drive cycles.
Aside from Michael any opinions on the e85? I just filled up with regular so I'll have to wait a little while before I need to fill up again to try it
 
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/factshts/catcvrts.pdf

ugh, so it's only 25000 miles for emissions performance and 50k for the "shell and pipes".
frown.gif


There's always the "anti fouler" on the rear o2 trick.
 
I was thinking about the anti fouler trick but before I try that I wanted to get opinions on cleaners and running e85 when I do the test
They don't use a sniffer and only scan the computer, so as long as the systems are ready and the light is off I'm in the clear.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino


ugh, so it's only 25000 miles for emissions performance and 50k for the "shell and pipes".
frown.gif


This is the second magnaflow cat I've had fail right afte the warranty has expired. There aren't any engine issues that should be causing it to fail. Needless to say I'm not very impressed with magnaflow
 
A cat failing? The only way that can happen is if you're running so rich that it cannot process the exhaust as intended: Recall from HS chemistry that the term 'Catalyst' refers to a chemical reaction where the original material is used and then replenished in the chemical process. If you're running rich, you're literally burning thru the catalyst, it's being consumed but not replenished at the end of the cycle, resulting in a 'burned out' cat. There are a lot of reasons for this, but an O2 sensor sounds like a likely culprit, NOT the quality of the Magnaflow. Get a new O2 sensor, especially if it;s been more than 30,000 miles. And forget the additives, They're a waste and it won't correct your issue.
 
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most aftermarket converters suck.. thats why they are 300$ instead of 1200-2000$ like oem.
 
There's a couple other ways cats can fail other than a rich mixture alone. All the plugs are showing normal wear and nothing indicative of a rich mixture. I have my doubts that the cat is failing from a rich mixture or a HG leak.
I did order a new o2 sensor a couple days ago and plan on installing it
I know I eventually will need to replace the cat but my question in this thread is if there's any merit to running a cat cleaner or using e85 for the 'test tank'.
I've got until the end of August to either register in oregon like I would prefer, or spend the money I have for registration on a new cat and renew my registration in Washington(no emissions test this year)
 
what year is your vehicle? if it is 2000 or before, you are allowed to have two ANY INCOMPLETE monitors. If your scanner gives you the I/M status, you might be able to time it such that while CAT MON is still INC, you get your sticker. ABSOLUTELY make sure that you are not going to fail the test before going to the inspection station. If you fail, the re-test NEEDS to have the CAT MON completed and you will never pass it with your converter (well, you can put the anti-fouler but if you are going to do that, you might as well do it before showing up for the emission test).

The rules are bizarre that initial test allows incomplete CAT MON but the re-test does not.

By the way, many manufacturers have ridiculously stringent requirement for P0420/P0430 to light up. For example, you might get the light if the CAT efficiency drops below 95%! If real tail pipe test is done, you will pass with flying colors with the CAT efficiency of 90%. Some manufacturers have TSB which changes the trip point but I am suspecting your car is too old for free TSB or 8/80 federal emission warranty.
 
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Yeah it's a 2002
I did a little looking on the oregon dmv website and didn't see anything about an alternate 'sniffer' test. I may call and see if it's available
I think first I'll try out the non-fouler and see if that does the trick. I'll keep my obd scanner plugged in and make sure all systems are to before I go to the testing station before the code is thrown. If a no go then I'll try running e85 and if still no dice, I guess I'll just bite the bullet and buy another cat... This time not a magnaflow
 
If you have a Washington registration, that means that you will also have a Washington title. In order to do what you want, you will have to get it retitled in Oregon. There will be fees and taxes. Could get expensive. You might want to think about it some. Good luck.

Wayne
 
For 2002, you are only allowed to have single incomplete. If you are going to do non-fouler (on the bank 1 secondary O2 sensor), you should get be able to I/M readiness complete easily.

If you are still worried, just take it in when all but one I/M readiness monitors are complete. The last one to complete is usually EVAP or CAT.

EVAP needs 3/4 to 1/4 gas tank to run and CAT needs to have gentle deceleration of highway speed to run. So if you drive like a maniac or never take on the highway speed, the CAT test may not run for a while.
 
It's actually titled in Utah, I just finished making payments on it last month. Part of my motivation to register in oregon is to not have to title it needlessly in Washington. All the costs and everything in oregon total $252. I ordered a non fouler that has already been drilled out from a guy on eBay for $5. I'll give that a shot and if that doesn't work I found a guy parting out a low mileage s10 in my area who said he'd sell me the cat for $80. According to him at least there's no error codes but I've got my fingers crossed on the non fouler. Don't get me wrong, I'm going to do a proper fix and replace the cat eventually, but at the moment my budget and registration timeline are very limited.
I'm going to clear the code and drive around with my obd tool plugged in, and as soon as it's good to go ill head straight to the deq.
It's mostly just a commuter car and doesn't get on the highway much, but it always makes it to operating temp on each drive
 
Something interesting I found http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html
Apparently for the drive cycle to test all the emissions systems, a poor or marginal catalyst may take 5 drive cycles to be tested.... Following all the other drive cycle instructions I reckon I can clear the code and perform that ccle on the road on the way to deq
 
But you need to have the scanner showing you the test results. If you end up at DEQ with two incompletes, you are done for :-( On the re-test, you will have to have CAT test completed and you will get the P0420 and cat test will fail turning on the CEL.

I am quite sure the non-fouler will work though.
 
A buddy had his cat hollowed out and they ran a straight pipe through the center. Looked normal but no more cat issues. Passed emissions cleaner than the year before.
 
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