Getting an '02 Honda Shadow 750: What Oil?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 11, 2007
Messages
1,267
Location
Tennessee
Alright, this will be my first bike. I'm doing some trading to get it, and to me it is a win-win situation. I'm not really into bikes, and have never owned or even driven one besides a few dirtbikes... and a bicycle, of course.

Anyone know what oil is best for these? It's the 750 with 6 valves, v-twin, SOHC engine. Supposively not a powerhouse by any means, but it will surely get better gas mileage than my latest aquired '86 Ford F-150 with 3.50 axle/4-speed with bulldog/granny gear.

Btw, if anyone has any insight on this bike, let me know all about it. I don't have it yet, but should today or tomorrow. I'm kind of excited, yet kind of scared of it. Not the power, I've had a highly modified twin turbo'd car that would run all over most all cruiser type bikes, and even some crotch rockets from a roll. It's just the fact of only have 500 pounds in between my legs, instead of being in a 6000+ pound truck, or howmuch ever an F-150 from '86 weighs.
 
Jaymus, welcome aboard. I don't have any specific information about your 750 Shadow other than it sounds like you made a great choice for a first bike.

I urge you to take the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Beginner Rider Course. Info can be found here: http://msf-usa.org/

The MSF is the best way to learn to ride and the course goes a long way to reducing the tremendous risk a new rider faces. They really have worked this out to a science and I promise you'll be glad you did it. Don't rely on trial and error when the cost of an error can be very bad!
 
MSF before you get out in traffic is a great idea. I had a earlier Shadow...dang, was it a 700? Wow, it's been a while, I bought it used in the early 90's...but, my nephew has it now...it's got close to 90,000 miles on it. I used HDEO's all it's life. Still doesn't consume any oil at this point.
 
Quote:


The MSF is the best way to learn to ride and the course goes a long way to reducing the tremendous risk a new rider faces. They really have worked this out to a science and I promise you'll be glad you did it. Don't rely on trial and error when the cost of an error can be very bad!




Yes, take a rider training course before you even worry about the oil your going to put in that thing. Should be a good bike to start on.
 
Rotella (either mineral or synthetic) is popular with Gold Wing owners. I think the Shadows use the same oil filter, which means any Honda auto filter will work for you.
Drive shaft or chain?
 
Thanks for the helpful responses!

So, not most important, but in regard to my original question: Rotella Shell will be ok? Is this not the wet-clutch (or whatever) set up that requires the special motorcycle oil for engine/transmission?

If not, I would love to use Rotella Shell 15w-40. I know a 70's model Honda motorcycle that has used only that and has over 150,000 miles on it. That's a lot for a bike. It's his daily driver, too. I assume he doesn't require that engine/transmission oil for wet-clutches?

The guy I'm getting it off of says it doesn't take that kind of oil. Once again, bikes are new to me, although I know much about automobiles. (Just put a 6-speed transmission in a 2004 Ford F-350 XLT Super Duty... simple, I know... but HEAVY). So, I know little to nothing about bikes, really... yes, I'm young, not experienced it ALL, yet.

And, I do want to take a training course. I've read much about the one listed. I might as well take it. I'm a good driver, and I test drove the bike well. It felt comfortable to me within a couple of minutes. And, yes, I've layed a dirtbike over, so I know that these 2 wheel creatures have limitations, so I drove it knowing that. It was extremely ... awesome. Even though it's a Honda. I loved it.

So, as soon as I get the ok for some Shell Rotella, I'm going to throw some in it. And thanks for the recommendations on taking that road course. I definitely will have to take it. Wish me luck on not getting ran over while riding it. I've been in a LOT of wrecks all due to the other driver's fault.
 
Quote:


And, yes, I've layed a dirtbike over, so I know that these 2 wheel creatures have limitations, so I drove it knowing that. It was extremely ... awesome. Even though it's a Honda. I loved it.

Wish me luck on not getting ran over while riding it. I've been in a LOT of wrecks all due to the other driver's fault.




I can appreciate your enthusiasm, and honesty. Welcome to the world of 2 wheels. I cannot emphasize enough the need to take the MSF course BEFORE ever getting on the street. Your laying a dirtbike over is nothing at all like going down on pavement. There is no comparison to getting the wind knocked out of you by going over the bars, or getting your soldiers bruised by coming up short on an 80 foot triple. An accident on the street is in the life threatening category. You can lose a limb, be paralyzed, or worse. I encourage you not to think you will be a great rider because you are a good driver. In a bike/car tangle, it doesn't make any difference whose fault it is. The MSF course not only teaches you basic skills, but also how to be visible in traffic, how to watch for and identify hazards, (SIPDE: scan, identify, predict, decide, execute) and some basic emergency maneuvers. Get a DOT approved helmet, not some half pint brain bucket popular with the open pipe crowd. Arai makes a very nice, light, quiet helmet line. A leather jacket will serve you well for along time. Hein Gericke, or Joe Rocket come to mind. Check the tires for dry rot. Lots of bikes are stored more than ridden, and tires are often rotted before the tread is gone. The two accidents that occur with bikes most frequently are vehicles turning left in front of them and the bike t-bones the car (But Officer Piggens... I didn't see him!) and bikes running off the road on corners. There are hundreds of videos on YouTube where some guy runs right off of a curve. The natural reaction if a curve tightens up (say you entered the curve not being able to see the exit: just a leisurely ride through the hills, maybe over one of those mountain passes you have down there in Tennessee..) will be to grab a handful of brake, and try to STOP before running off the road. Braking makes the bike stand up, and you aren't negotiating a turn if your vertical. You have to override the brain's reaction (it's hard.. all the blood from there will be moving toward your hiney to pucker it) and push harder on the bars, while applying more throttle. This lean the bike over harder, and 9.5 times out of 10 your will make the corner. Nothing on a bike is risk free, it's all about increasing your odds. I have a good friend, an MSF instructor, that has 230,000 plus accident free miles. I have 100,000 AC (after course) miles myself, and 10,000 BC miles. Luckily, none of my injuries from the collision with the car were permanent. I know you didn't ask, but I'm giving advice anyway. Take the course before riding. You are buying the bike to enjoy and have fun. Be just as hungry to find out how to ride safely, as what oil to use. Don't let that experience be cut short by a lack of knowledge. BTW, Rotella 15-40 is fine for your scoot.
 
Quote:


Rotella Shell will be ok? Is this not the wet-clutch (or whatever) set up that requires the special motorcycle oil for engine/transmission?


In theory the friction modifiers in a car oil could cause the wet clutch to slip. In practice, this never happens unless the clutch is starting to fail already. Many of us have been using Rotella or other car oils and I've not heard of anyone actually experiencing clutch slippage. And at $16 per gallon for the synthetic at Walmart it's less than half the price of moto-specific oils.
 
It's the 'energy conserving' oil, usually 10W-30 or thinner, that is supposed to cause clutch slippage.
On high output crotch rocket type bikes it may do so, for the more sedate touring and/or cruiser bikes, it's less likely.
Rotella has been used for years by Gold Wing owners with good results. They prefer the synthetic(blue Jug), but the conventional (white jug) will work good too.
 
beanoil is right. Another thing to mention is that on a motorcycle, when you accelerate, the rear suspension RISES...that's one of the reasons that in a hot corner, you want to be able to add throttle...it gives you more clearance so you won't drag parts as early. Dragging in a turn is something that makes newby's (and some not-so-newby's) want to let off throttle...which makes the condition worse. If you drag too much, you lose traction and you are down.
You'll learn about this, learn how to push-to-swerve...push longer to swerve more, and to look where you want to go...not where you don't want to go. Hard to learn for some, but, it can save your bacon! Once you take the course, you need to practice, practice, practice. Best of wishes as you learn...
 
Quote:


Anyone know what oil is best for these? It's the 750 with 6 valves, v-twin, SOHC engine.



If you're not already discovered it, go check out the "Honda Shadow" forum:

http://www.hondashadow.net/forum/index.php

Lots of good info there. I've been a member there for almost two years. Lots of good folks.

Oil ... any decent oil will do. You can't go wrong with Rotella, either 5W-40 or 15W-40. Basically, the one things that seems to be the golden rule is: no oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the label. Maintain a reasonable change interval and you'll be fine.
 
Ok, looks like I will be going with Shell Rotella, probably in the synthetic flavor? Is that desireable?

Also, I want to say that yesterday was the first day with my bike, and the first day with ANY bike. I rode all... day... long. I had no problems, no close encounters. I 'feel' the whole thing about accelerating out of a curve. I've not hotrodded it or anything, maybe 3 or 4 first and second gear wind outs where it's clear to do, but it's not a speed demon, and neither am I on a motorcycle. This bike has been easy for me to handle, but I am 6'4", 220 - 230 pounds (depending on what I've ate that week, lmao).

Thanks for all the tips, I've learned a lot just reading this thread. I still plan on taking that motorcycle class sometime, soon. I'm sure I can learn a great deal from it.

So, should I use conventional Rotella, or synthetic? I'm thinking synthetic if it has been tried and proven in these bikes.

And, not so relevant, but I must say that this bike is a ton of fun, and I rode it straight for over 6 hours yesterday and had no problems. Ya feel free when riding on a bike.
 
Either Rotella is a good choice. If it were me, I'd start with the conventional(white jug), and run 2 or 3 thousand miles and THEN switch to the synthetic. The blue jug stuff, depending on how many miles you put on in a year, could be a once a year oil change; at winter storage time.
First year, you'll likely go out of your way to ride it, I know I would, so you'll likely put more miles on this year.
 
I've ridden it so much I'm sun burnt as ____ and my ____ feels like it's been beaten with a club. I'm already wanting more power. This is plenty of torque for cruising, and it has a very nice sound to be a stock exhaust. Actually sounds pretty loud. I was afraid it'd sound like my friend's Yamaha 650 cruiser (not sure which make). While that Yamaha is a beautiful bike, it is hardly louder than a car. This one sounds pretty loud, but nothing to some Harley's I've heard that bust your ear drums.

May I ask why you would start with conventional? FYI, it already has 12,500 miles on it. Well, it did when I got it, it now how almost 12,900. ____... 400 miles in less than 24 hours? Sounds about right, lol.
 
Quote:


I'm already wanting more power.



You're not going to get that with the 750 ... it's just not that powerful a bike. It's a nice ride, and it has sufficient power to motor around, but there are lots and lots of people over on the Honda Shadow forum who are moving from the 750 up to the 1100, the VTX 1300 and 1800, or even over to the Yamaha cruiser line.

Make no mistake about it ... the 750 Shadow is a nice, practical bike ... but it is nobody's beast of a bike. Not by today's standards.

Quote:


May I ask why you would start with conventional?



No reason ... cheaper as a first time trial, probably.

As for JASO MA ... I doubt the '02 owner's manual called for that. It might have, but I'd doubt it. The Honda GN-4 oil, which is their standard recommendation, wasn't JASO then. It didn't get JASO MA until just recently.

The truth is, all that bike really needs is a decent oil rated API SG or better with no friction modifiers. After that, the intended change interval is going to dictate the oil you should get. Amsoil is darn fine oil ... but if you're planning 2K or 3K changes, then you'll never get the benefit out of that oil. 8K and beyond? Then definitely consider the Asmoil. But 3K or 4K? Rotella maps beautifully to that space.
 
Why conventional oil for now?
Well, not knowing what kind of OCI the previous owner did, and since the summer is half over(sort of), I'd go conventional to clean out the old oil, any soft build up, for one; and since the fall 'put a way' is close, why spend the extra cash? The white jug Rotella and a new filter(wal-mart or car filter) should last you till the fall.

I AM NOT CHEAP! i'm frugel.
 
You will find there is a huge difference in accel, when comparing cars to bikes.....In a car you have a huge seat behind your back, not to mention 2 tons of steel around you......, true that 750 is not a sport bike, but the acceleration will still put a huge grin on your face, when you WOT........,
Ill take any 600cc super sport over ANY sport car......,

The acceleration on a bike, will do two things, 1-get your heart racing, and 2- upgrading to a faster bike.....,

Personally I find accelerating in cars just plain boring...!, mash the pedal and go , a motorcycle is 10x more fun,,,,, your 750 will be a blast......,

If this is your first course, maybe take a course or two.
ride safe....and get soem good gear....., sweat comes off, scars can take years to heal.
 
Yeah, I already have the bike. The 0 - 60 is the most fun part about it. I don't hot rod it or anything, but the acceleration is, as you say, the best part of these cruisers.

And, yeah, I've had the thing for like 3 days and the 750 is missing that extremely hard grunt pull down low that I really want. I want something that makes me hang on for life ;-)

This will do for now... since it is my first bike. I've punches some more holes in the baffles, and I'm ready to ride some more. This thing is not a beastly bike or anything, but it is a good size for a bike, and it has great down-low acceleration, which is all anyone wants from a cruiser, anyways. Thanks for the tips.

BTW, on the hondashadow.net forums, it seems like Rotella-T 15w-40 is safe to use. Also, they have a crossreference list I saw and it told a 2.5" and 3.25" Purolator Pure One filter that I can use on it. I'm going with the 3.25" Pure One for my filter. Thanks for the tips.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom