German Castrol 0w-30 - MINI Cooper S - 5267miles

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Here is my latest report with GC. I had Mobil 1 5w-30 in the engine prior to this sample but failed to get it tested. My previous report was for the BMW Castrol Syntec 5w-30 oil. I also added an Airaid cotton air filter which seems to be filtering well.

I would like to hear all comments, especially with the increase in iron this sample.

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While I don't see any big problems with this analysis you do have elevated chrome and tin. This would tell me the oil is not ideal for your valve train. While I am unfamiliar with this engine, If this where my car I would be using M1 0w-40.
 
Spectrographic analysis only detects solid particules of 5 um or less, along with dissolved ions. So silicon levels in a UOA can be very deceiving

Your aftermarket air filter is j-u-n-k and is causing a significant increase in upper engine metals. I'd take it back and demand a refund....

TS
 
Tin strikes me as odd. It's hard to draw conclusions on one sample. This one look good though. I would run the next one for a similar interval to compare data assuming the fill is the same oil.
 
It may be that the mini likes thinner oil. The GC is thick for a 30w. Does the Manufacturer recommend 5W30? TeeDub may be right about the air filter, change one thing at a time, so you know what's working. What oil are you running now?
 
The BMW Castrol Syntec 5W30 report was very favorable. Why did you decide to try M1 and then GC after that UOA? Was the TBN low or something. Maybe that's the oil you should go back to. After reading many UOA's for various applications on this forum, it's apparent that one size does not fit all when it comes to engine oil.
 
The BMW 5w-30 is close to the viscosity of the GC. I get about the same wear rates between the BMW 5w-30 and the green or gold GC in my 2003 BMW 330Ci.
I posted a VOA of the BMW 5w-30 a while back.
BMW does suggest 5w-30 for the Mini.
 
Quote:


The BMW Castrol Syntec 5W30 report was very favorable. Why did you decide to try M1 and then GC after that UOA? Was the TBN low or something. Maybe that's the oil you should go back to. After reading many UOA's for various applications on this forum, it's apparent that one size does not fit all when it comes to engine oil.




I went with M1 because that is what I had been using between the free dealer changes. Then I heard about GC and thought I would try that since it is similar to what the dealer uses.

I currently have GC in the engine.

I went with an Airaid filter because it has 4 layers of cotton and 1 synthetic layer for extra filtration. I was expecting to see the Silicon higher this UOA since my previous UOA was with the stock paper filter. However it was not higher.

I know you all dislike oiled cotton air filters and don't really want to debate that here. If the filter turns out to be really really bad for the engine, I'll take it out.

In about 3600 miles, I'm due for my last free oil change at the dealer. I may consider buying oil from them at that time. For my previous report,Blackstone suggested at that time to take the change interval out to 7 or 8 thousand miles. Previous Report Discussion
 
Your choice of oils does not affect abrasive wear of the intake and exhaust valves and valve seats. This is strictly a filtration issue....Feel free to go back and try the BMW 5w-30 with this same air filter and you'll see.
 
I have gone back to the paper filter and will test again with this new run of GC before I go in for my free maintenance and oil change. I have gone about 650 miles on this change with the gauze filter, so I should see my bad numbers go down since I switched back to paper. Correct?
 
I agree with TD. My best guess would be an abrasive issue. That would make the filter the primary suspect, though there might be sealing issues. At any rate, I'd also say change one thing at a time, be patient, and see what works. It's not as if your engine is on a fast track to reduce itself to iron filings -- there's time. I'd stay with the GC and just swap back to an OEM filter, and work from there.
 


Huh
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. MINI does recommend 5w-30. I've used M1 5w-30 in mine and then recently switched to GC. I don't have any oil analysis done though. As for filters, I agree that you should go back to OEM. The MINI's canister filter design makes it a little harder to find a media replacement that fits right.
 
I don't know if this has any bearing on the results or not, but I also ran a bottle of Redline Fuel System Cleaner through during this oil interval.
 
One more thing. The flywheel was replaced during this interval as well. Forgot about that.
 
Overuse of fuel system cleaner can cause higher iron (and perhaps other metals) if I'm not mistaken. Hopefully TeeDub will check in on this thread again, notice you said that and provide more comments. I believe the dosage for redline's fuel system cleaner is not to use the whole bottle in one tank.

Anyhow, I noticed higher iron when I used the Redline fuel additive in my BMW. By the way, as Shanneba said, the BMW 5w-30 Synthetic is a good oil, so is GC. Both are heavy 30 wts, almost exactly the same viscosity at 100c.

Also if I'm not mistaken, the upper engine metals TeeDub is talking about are tin and chromium as TR3-2001 pointed out.

As you are a newer member, I thought it would be helpful for me to point out that there are several people with a great deal of knowledge to add, and you are lucky when they pipe-up with respect to your oil analysis. TeeDub and Ekpolk are among those, so you are lucky to have their advice. In my own case, from what I have observed on this site, my own approach if I were in your shoes would be to take that advice.

Good luck to you and welcome to Bitog!
 
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