I recently bought a low (115K) mile '95 Chrysler Cirrus with the 2.5 V-6. It is really nice condition and appears well cared for. The timing belt replacement interval is around 100K. I only have recent receipts for repairs. In removing the plastic cover over the timing belt, it "appears" to have been recently replaced. I can still read portions of the part numbers on the back of the belt. The teeth on the inside of the belt have some texturing that looks fresh. There is no fraying or cracking apparent anywhere. Ditto on the serpentine belt for the alternator-A-C. Where the 2.5 is an "interference" engine, I am extremely leery of the problem. Has anyone seen a belt needing replacement that shows these type of indications? Any insight greatly appreciated.
General timing belt question
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I think when I removed the old TB on my girlfriend's Beetle there was still lettering you could clearly read on it. I don't know if that's a good indication of the age of the belt.
Yes it is an interference engine.
Personally, I would change it out as part of your post-purchase maintenance regime. Belts can and often do look fine until they break or shear off teeth with no warning. Change it out (and all the necessary rollers, idlers & tensioner) so you know the condition of the timing system going forward.
Lest anyone think I am anti-belt, I am very much pro-belt. They are quieter, lighter, don't shear engine oil and are more dimensionally stable than chains. A timing belt system should be designed for relatively easy replacement compared to a chain.
FWIW, the timing belt on my wife's Beetle TDI was 21k miles overdue when we bought the car. It was changed out immediately. Despite it looking practically new when it came off the pulleys, it was well on its way out as it weighed far less than the new belt that replaced it and the injection timing was noticeably retarded.
Lest anyone think I am anti-belt, I am very much pro-belt. They are quieter, lighter, don't shear engine oil and are more dimensionally stable than chains. A timing belt system should be designed for relatively easy replacement compared to a chain.
FWIW, the timing belt on my wife's Beetle TDI was 21k miles overdue when we bought the car. It was changed out immediately. Despite it looking practically new when it came off the pulleys, it was well on its way out as it weighed far less than the new belt that replaced it and the injection timing was noticeably retarded.
I would change it - you don't know the age and/or mileage...but you do know what a broken belt will do...
So, as has been said, replace the belt, tensioner and idler pully, then you can stop worrying....
So, as has been said, replace the belt, tensioner and idler pully, then you can stop worrying....
Originally Posted By: Astro14
I would change it - you don't know the age and/or mileage...but you do know what a broken belt will do...
So, as has been said, replace the belt, tensioner and idler pully, then you can stop worrying....
+1
here is the oem belt on our 04 neon 2.0L w/ 130k. It got a new belt, tensioner/pulley, water pump, cam seal, and crank seal. (and other stuff) I used a Gates kit.
http://i45.tinypic.com/16bx37r.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/2rrnlmt.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/2638rbs.jpg
I would change it - you don't know the age and/or mileage...but you do know what a broken belt will do...
So, as has been said, replace the belt, tensioner and idler pully, then you can stop worrying....
+1
here is the oem belt on our 04 neon 2.0L w/ 130k. It got a new belt, tensioner/pulley, water pump, cam seal, and crank seal. (and other stuff) I used a Gates kit.
http://i45.tinypic.com/16bx37r.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/2rrnlmt.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/2638rbs.jpg
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Looks do not tell the tale!
When and if you do install a new belt, get new pulleys also. They cause the belt to go bad, not the other way around.
Go without a few lunches if you have to.
Can you do the work yourself? This will save huge bucks!
Start gathering parts and tools and information now.
When and if you do install a new belt, get new pulleys also. They cause the belt to go bad, not the other way around.
Go without a few lunches if you have to.
Can you do the work yourself? This will save huge bucks!
Start gathering parts and tools and information now.
Off topic-
That engine looks GREAT inside. Really clean for 130k miles, IMO.
That engine looks GREAT inside. Really clean for 130k miles, IMO.
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Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Off topic-
That engine looks GREAT inside. Really clean for 130k miles, IMO.
yeah I was surprised... previous owner was a DIYer and a fan of Pennzoil. not sure on OCI.
Off topic-
That engine looks GREAT inside. Really clean for 130k miles, IMO.
yeah I was surprised... previous owner was a DIYer and a fan of Pennzoil. not sure on OCI.
go to a Chrysler/Jeep dodge dealer, bring your VIN # and ask them if they can run it in dealer connect, they can look up what if any maintenance was done on the car. They can give you a print out or at least tell you if a Chrysler dealer ever did the timing belt service on it.
Perhaps you will get lucky and know if it was done.
Perhaps you will get lucky and know if it was done.
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Originally Posted By: VNTS
go to a Chrysler/Jeep dodge dealer, bring your VIN # and ask them if they can run it in dealer connect, they can look up what if any maintenance was done on the car. They can give you a print out or at least tell you if a Chrysler dealer ever did the timing belt service on it.
Perhaps you will get lucky and know if it was done.
The Nissan dealer here wouldn't do that for me. Claimed that privacy laws prevent it. But maybe our laws are more strict in that area.
If the belt truly has no signs of deterioration, I don't think I'd change it. I'd accept the risk. There's some risk involved in installing new parts too. I would change it if it looked old and oily like the one on Texan4Life's Neon.
go to a Chrysler/Jeep dodge dealer, bring your VIN # and ask them if they can run it in dealer connect, they can look up what if any maintenance was done on the car. They can give you a print out or at least tell you if a Chrysler dealer ever did the timing belt service on it.
Perhaps you will get lucky and know if it was done.
The Nissan dealer here wouldn't do that for me. Claimed that privacy laws prevent it. But maybe our laws are more strict in that area.
If the belt truly has no signs of deterioration, I don't think I'd change it. I'd accept the risk. There's some risk involved in installing new parts too. I would change it if it looked old and oily like the one on Texan4Life's Neon.
t-belts can die spontaneously. If it has more than 8 years on it, replace it.
I'd go by miles, with special attention to extraordinary heat.
For instance, what about belts that have sat on a shelf for 5 years? Are they used up?
For instance, what about belts that have sat on a shelf for 5 years? Are they used up?
How much do you have into this car, and what condition is it in? To do this right, you should replace the WP, Tensioner and Idler pulley.
I had a '95 Neon, and around 115k I just put a belt on it. 25k later the bearing on the idler pulley froze and bent every valve in the head. The Cirrus was already in the family at that time, as I have sworn off ever buying another car with a timing belt after that!
I had a '95 Neon, and around 115k I just put a belt on it. 25k later the bearing on the idler pulley froze and bent every valve in the head. The Cirrus was already in the family at that time, as I have sworn off ever buying another car with a timing belt after that!
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I'd go by miles, with special attention to extraordinary heat.
For instance, what about belts that have sat on a shelf for 5 years? Are they used up?
The warehouse has temperatures under control, unlike being under the hood of the car.
That is why I go by the amount of time the belt has been on the engine, if the mileage has not been reached.
I'd go by miles, with special attention to extraordinary heat.
For instance, what about belts that have sat on a shelf for 5 years? Are they used up?
The warehouse has temperatures under control, unlike being under the hood of the car.
That is why I go by the amount of time the belt has been on the engine, if the mileage has not been reached.
I can corroborate that-my brother's '87 Tercel with less than 25K miles had one of the worst non-broken timing belts I've ever seen. Dry rotted and cracks visible between the teeth, and several teeth came off when trying to use it to hold the cam pulley steady. Age definitely does hurt them, especially 25 YEARS!
Originally Posted By: dishdude
How much do you have into this car, and what condition is it in? To do this right, you should replace the WP, Tensioner and Idler pulley.
I had a '95 Neon, and around 115k I just put a belt on it. 25k later the bearing on the idler pulley froze and bent every valve in the head. The Cirrus was already in the family at that time, as I have sworn off ever buying another car with a timing belt after that!
interesting... when I did mine I noted the old idler/tensionor was a little rough when I spun it, so I was glad I decided to get the belt/idler kit.
How much do you have into this car, and what condition is it in? To do this right, you should replace the WP, Tensioner and Idler pulley.
I had a '95 Neon, and around 115k I just put a belt on it. 25k later the bearing on the idler pulley froze and bent every valve in the head. The Cirrus was already in the family at that time, as I have sworn off ever buying another car with a timing belt after that!
interesting... when I did mine I noted the old idler/tensionor was a little rough when I spun it, so I was glad I decided to get the belt/idler kit.
Thanks everyone. It is difficult to replace as it is very tight in the engine compartment and I have a lot in this car now. I will keep an eye on it and replace it in the fall.
Though erring on the side of caution is always the best way to go, especially when the stakes are high... in my limited experience of changing timing belts on Hondas the old belts always seemed to be in good shape. Even the one with 270k miles on it. However, I always found another issue that justified the procedure, such as a grainy-sounding tensioner bearing or a leaky crank seal.
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