Gate valve?

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Any idea where I can get a gate (?) valve? I am looking to stop the flow of AF into a rear heater core on my E-150. When I turn the A/C on or the defroster in warmer weather the rear heater blower comes on and blows heat out of the rear heater. I want to put this valve into the 5/8" heater hose and stop the flow of AF into the heater core. The local radiator shop sold them, he's no longer in business.

Any idea where I can get one?

Thanks,
Frank D
 
If that is really what you want to do, any local big box store or plumbing store will have water valves in the style your after. Add a couple fittings to convert it to hose barb and you're in business.

Check the temperature ratings on the valves...
 
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I don't see many other options, but am open to suggestions. The rear heater core has coolant flowing through it all the time. The way it's wired when the front A/C defrost is on, the rear blower fan comes on at a low speed (really dumb). I don't want to start messing with the wiring to the rear blower motor.

Now that I have people riding in the back of the van they're complaining they can feel the heat when the A/C is on. I put it off since it was late in the season, now it's no the list of things to get done.

I'll have to check for the valves at Home Depot, and see if they can handle the heat.

I'll have to check the shop manual to see which hose is the inlet for the heater core and put the valve on that hose. I was told it didn't matter which hose the gate valve went on, but think the inlet hose would be best.

Thanks!
 
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Get a threaded ball valve, it wont crud up most of the ball valves home depot and other home stores sell are rated high enough to handle the temps, get the hose barb fittings in brass and some hose clamps and your good to go.
 
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Thanks, I just got off the phone with my brother and he said the same thing. Will that fit on a 5/8" heater hose?
 
The van should have a heater valve in the hose somewhere that turns off the flow of water when the heater is off. Usually it's vacuum operated.
Maybe it's leaking or it's vacuum hose fell off?

The hardware store will have valves. Just screw a piece of pipe into the valve and clamp your hoses to the pipes. The big semi trucks use gate valves to shut off the water to the heater in the summer.

The ones they use are the same as the hardware store ones.
 
Thanks for the replies. There is nothing to shut it off, its been a problem since day one, but no one really sat in the back to complain. Now I'm hearing the complaints, so 21 years later it's time to address it.
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Does it matter which hose it goes on, I was told it didn't but common sense is telling me put it on the inlet side?
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Thanks for the replies. There is nothing to shut it off, its been a problem since day one, but no one really sat in the back to complain. Now I'm hearing the complaints, so 21 years later it's time to address it.
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Does it matter which hose it goes on, I was told it didn't but common sense is telling me put it on the inlet side?



It doesn't matter which side you put the valve on. But if you doubt my sage advice... then go with said 'common sense'. It'll work either way.
 
If you have a Lowes, they usually have a better selection of plumbing stuff and cheaper too then HD. All the plumbing stuff except PVC and PE are meant for hot water. I agree on getting a ball valve, and brass would be best.
 
Originally Posted By: onion
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Thanks for the replies. There is nothing to shut it off, its been a problem since day one, but no one really sat in the back to complain. Now I'm hearing the complaints, so 21 years later it's time to address it.
55.gif


Does it matter which hose it goes on, I was told it didn't but common sense is telling me put it on the inlet side?



It doesn't matter which side you put the valve on. But if you doubt my sage advice... then go with said 'common sense'. It'll work either way.




I'll take your advise on either side, since the guy at the radiator shop IIRC said the same thing, along with my brother. It will make the job a little easier too! Thanks!
 
My last plumbing foray into the basement resulted in replacing the remaining gate valves with ball valves. My water rots the bibb screws, making the gates useless. If you get a regular plumbing fixture, get a threaded one and run a couple of 5/8 hose barbs into it. It will outlast the car.
 
I am amazed at the way gate valves have hung on. I was introduced to ball valves at a supplier Christmas party in 1979. When I started talking business even after generous portions of liquor, the guy gave me a 1/2'' Lunkenhiemer 707 HST. I was being given a small factory to manage the next week. It was a plumbers' nightmare,and the maintance people didn't even know about adjusting or repacking a valve stem.

Over the next 6 years, his company was well repaid for his generosity. I bought a bunch of butterfly valves for stuff over 2''. We had steam, water, natural gas, propane, powder, compressed air, and vinyl plasticizers. Phthalate esters, I think in some synthetic oils. It was an old rundown factory with materials that OSHA and the EPA didn't like. Everything leaked.
 
Yep, on applications that are on/off, I Love ball valves.

In power stations, gates are next to useless that day that they are installed, and only get worse.
 
Actually ball valves are better for throttling than gate valves. If throttling is needed go with a globe valve, or for critical things, a needle valve.
 
Originally Posted By: labman
Actually ball valves are better for throttling than gate valves. If throttling is needed go with a globe valve, or for critical things, a needle valve.


Never considered a gate valve for throttling in an industrial setting.

We've got some neat throttling requirements. 17MPa, 320C to atmosphere (PM me, I'll tell you which valve doesn't work, LOL), 17MPa 180C to 1MPa 150C for feedpump leak-off.
 
Originally Posted By: Dualie
you cany buy a vacuum actuated heater shut off valve from any major auto parts store. just T into the line that controls your defroster vent door actuator.


I was looking for something very simple, open the valve in the fall, close it in the spring. The coolant needs to be drained and refilled soon and now is as good a time as any to install a ball valve. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
One reason that there is no valve is that water circulating through the heater equals less corrosion than water trapped in the heater. This may not be true but was a theory several years ago, also it costs the manufacturer less if there is no valve.
 
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