Gas Engine That Will Make 500,000 mi.

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CBODY67, I hope you're right about the 500K mile issue. I'm sure shooting for at least 300K, and with all my highway miles and a decent engine to start with, and of course rigorous pm, I think I can get there.

I understand what you're saying about the domestics vs. the imports, but I don't totally agree. I think the margin is certainly much closer than it used to be, and there are definitely domestics engines that are superior to their import competitors. But the U.S. automakers really hurt themselves with cavalier attitudes towards imports and definitely put out some inferior quality for a while. Even during the dark days of poor quality, there were some good ones (many have been mentioned in the "best engines" thread). But there was a definite difference in attitude, desire, fit/finish, consistency, and attention to detail.

Again, I think that has greatly, greatly changed, and I hope the U.S. car companies can convince the public to give them another shot.

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By observation, not only did many of the domestic auto manufactuers hurt themselves in not really paying attention to the imports' products, but many didn't know how to gauge what they were seeing or what it would lead to in later years. In the middle 1970s, I went out to look at new cars as a "cheap entertainment" situation. I started to notice that Pontiac Grand Prix seats were not contoured as you might expect them to be on the upper part of the front bucket seat seat back--they were ALL crooked and angled from horizontal. These were the same years of Grand Prixs that had the "thin" vinyl roof material that was gone in a few years. But the drive trains were pretty bulletproof and generally had no problems, other than a possible timing chain issue at about 80K miles.

By observation, almost EVERY engine family in EVERY manufacturer's vehicle will have some cyclical issues. My '77 305 never had any unusual engine noises, but in '78 the change to lighter-weight cylinder heads did result in valve jobs needing to be done by 35K miles. There were also some Chevy 4.3L V-6s in the earlier Astro vans that had oil sludge issues at about 80K miles or so, yet no problems in other vehicles it was used in. The middle 1980s Toyota minivans, the ones with the engine between the front seats, the engine would cook itself in extended-idle (think a flower shop delivering flowers to a hospital in July in TX) situations. All of these problems lasted for a few years on certain models and then we didn't see those things any more.

By observation, we generally don't see the whole vehicle segment and the problems that each one might have from time to time. For example, we heard how sorry a particular Chevrolet/GM diesel engine was (due to the starter becoming loose and then shearing starter bolts or breaking the block in that mounting pad area), but when I got around people who owned Ford 6.9L diesels, they had the same problems--just that the disgruntled Ford owners didn't talk to the disgruntled Chevy owners. Basically, both owners were in the same boat and didn't know it, on that particular issue. And there were others too, then and now.

I concur that domestic manufacturers are producing much better products now--even if some of them might appear to be incredible flimsy compared to prior designs. The reason I'd not have any qualms about a 500K+ mile domestic engine is due to the general beefiness of the lower end of the short block. This would include bearing surface areas and widths, for example, which I suspect would be more generous than many similar import engines (just a hunch).

A situation which "bit" Mercedes a while back was their oil change interval (generally a Euro length) vs the type of oil which USA buyers were putting in the cars (generally the least expensive dino oil). Seems that European owners are supposedly more prone to use synthetic oil and go for a longer OCI, but when USA owners used the same OCI with less expensive oils, things cratered and Mercedes generally paid the bill. It also became apparent to me that one reason that BMW went to a "full maintenance" warranty was to make sure that only specified oils were used in their vehicles . . . and then turned that into a selling point for their vehicles, which saved them money in the long run and the issues which Mercedes had to endure. I recall seeing some threads in here about which BMW engines took which particular viscosity of oil so they would live as long as they should.

I suspect that in the 1970s, the Detroit operatives looked at a Toyota Corolla and though "WE do better than that". More size, more comfort, more style, etc., which was probably true, but when the economy advantage of the imports became important, it WAS important to the purchasers of them. As for fuel economy, the old Mobil Economy Run was for domestics only and demonstrated what ultimate fuel economy could be achieved with OUR vehicles. Some of the favorites might have been a little shaken if there had been some imports in the mix, I suspect, but in the total mix of things, Ford and GM and Chrysler all had viable economy cars back then, which would generally hold up as long as if not longer than many of the imports would. One high school friend had a couple of paper routes stacked together. He drove Plymouth Valiant Slant Sixes exclusively. Engines never had any problems, but the rear axles did (for some reason). I don't recall any such stellar recommendations from similar Ford or GM owners, though, of cars in that size class.

Yet some of the things that were important to import buyers were not the same things as for domestic vehicle buyers, it seemed. Only thing was that when buyers branched out to purchase an import, it was a basic bare bones sort of vehicle rather than a high-style domestic-type vehicle. It was obvious that these people didn't feel the need to trade every year or so, so when the cosmetics went away, all they cared about was reliability and such. To some, it was "kool" to drive an import. And those loyal buyers returned to buy another import when that one was finally not worth fixing, which began a pattern that Detroit did not address, although they certainly knew what brand loyalty was (thinking they had a handle on that). The imports responded with some typically American responses of nicer vehicles and expanded model ranges. Hyundai, KIA, Toyota, Nissan, etc. have ALL followed the former General Motors orientation of "A vehicle for every purse and purpose", but many critics have not realized that, even now. What Toyota does is great, what GM does is less so--no matter what, for example.

In the middle 1980s, Toyota had a "Cheap to Keep" advertising campaign. One day, I was at a larger Toyota dealership and picked up one of their factory-recommended maintenance schedules, with appropriate pricing on the chart. It was a pretty good maintenance list. For the first two years or so, there were lots of "check" items with "No Charge" by them, but by the third year, there were many things that had started to creep in which did cost money to get done. MANY of these things were things that a similar domestic would not have needed (by observation and experience), like changing the rear axle fluid at 36K miles (when the domestic vehicles did not even recommend that, unless it was a P-Trac or similar). So, it became apparent that the least expensive vehicle to own and maintain over the very long run was something like a Chevy Caprice with a 305 V-8 (rear wheel drive, rugged and reliable engine--all known technology that anybody could generally work on and maintain pretty easy, which was also highly durable). They certainly didn't have any $80.00 choke pull-offs as some of the imports and domestic 4-cyls did. So . . . what you generally saved on fuel with an import should have been put in a savings fund for when it might break and cost to get it fixed or for general maintenance, as you drove around in a smaller car with less space to carry people or "stuff" in. In reality, the costs would have been pretty much equal, I suspect.

I know that some people rag on a particular engine for various reasons and these things get spread around the Internet community as gospel. Everybody has their own experiences and observations on these things, which is understandable and I respect that, but I also feel that by and large, USA designed engines are just as durable as any import brand engine--especially with the same level of required maintenance which is seemingly necessary to keep an import engine alive (and also affect ultimate resale value when "the books" are requested by a potential owner). And that situation is not something that just materialized, but something that's been here for at least 40 years. If you bought a domestic brand car, you were expected to get a newer one in a few years to prove your affluence and related prosperity, yet it was fine to buy a VW beetle and keep it forever, for example. Same if you bought a used Corolla and used it to commute to work, age and miles did not mean you were doing something wrong with keeping that car. An American car would have done the same things, if kept an extended period of time, too, but nobody was really oriented to do so.

Detroit seems to have a somewhat bad habit of not doing something until they are under the gun to do so (possibly a "financial" orientation to maximize shareholder returns??), whereas the earlier imports all tended to have highe levels of build quality, even for an inexpensive vehicle whose paint would fade and die within a few years. Comparatively, the oriental imports were doing something they didn't have to do, but did it anyway.

The Chrylser people proved that for the same money you can do something mediocre, you can do something neat. Look at the difference in the Chrysler K-cars and the LH cars that replaced them. Both cars had their place in Chrysler's history, but it was the LH cars and their different designs that put the golden eggs in the Chrysler bank accounts back then. Not to forget about the Ram truck's new designs that are still influencing what Ford and GM do. Or the current Chrysler 300.

I know there can be some compelling reasons to buy import brand vehicles (even ones assembled in the USA), but my orientation is still toward the "home team" (including the Chrysler Group) for having the generally most durable vehicles on the planet that will live with minimal maintenance and care and still look pretty decent in the end. I feel sure that any of them have a decent chance of making 500K+ miles with no serious engine problems, with at least factory-recommended service intervals (even using the GM Oil Life System to gauge OCIs). Of course, all of this is somewhat dependent upon use and user as some could wreck an anvil in a sand pile and not know what they had done as they did it. Not everybody desires to keep a vehicle past when the payment book is empty, or a year past that, and how they take care of the vehicle can reflect that orientation.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
^ Interesting point. Referring to the German cars, their bottom ends (at least in BMW/MBZ/Porsche) are built very stout to endure the high revving for extended periods of time found on the Autobahn/Autostrada and that has been one large reason those engines can run so long when maintained.

I still can't imagine that a typical V6 domestic engine could handle the hard driving a typical I6/V6/H6 German engine could for 250k miles.
 
^^Cbody, a lot of valid and interesting points. I remember years back when I was a kid and my parents were in some financial trouble when building a new house and some unfortunate things happened. We were given a 1977 Toyota Corolla with just over 110k miles on it. My parents drove it between 1991 and 1993 I believe until it was jsut about completely non-roadworthy. The replacement vehicle was a 1979 Chevy Impala wagon bought off a used car lot for $800 safetied. Ran the Impala for about 6 years under the same operating conditions. Despite the 305's camshaft losing a lobe (common problem in late 70's) it was driven another 3 years on 7 cylinders and cost almost nothing to maintain or repair. The Toyota on the other hand broke down several times in 2 years and cost much more for parts. The Impala never left us standed anywhere as far as I can remember and started in -20 and colder even with a screwed up choke while my moms late model Taurus at the time usually wouldn't. Oil changes were almost non existant the last 2 years as he thought the engine was just about dead anyways but it kept going and didn't even burn oil. At the end it was retired due to a carberetor problem and could have been easily fixed for $30 and an evening of work, but since the car needed brakes, tires, exhaust, etc. by that time and the financial hardship had finally ended partly due to that car he replaced it with a $1200 1983 Pontiac Grand Prix that was almost as good of a car.
 
If one wanted to stash a " Day After " car a 170-225-198 Mopar slant six ( in that order of preference ) mounted in a '63 thru '76 Valiant or Dart would be very tough to beat .

When considering this thread's question and answers in terms of current production engines and their designs it makes for an interesting comparison .
 
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In the middle 1980s, Toyota had a "Cheap to Keep" advertising campaign. One day, I was at a larger Toyota dealership and picked up one of their factory-recommended maintenance schedules, with appropriate pricing on the chart. It was a pretty good maintenance list. For the first two years or so, there were lots of "check" items with "No Charge" by them, but by the third year, there were many things that had started to creep in which did cost money to get done. MANY of these things were things that a similar domestic would not have needed (by observation and experience), like changing the rear axle fluid at 36K miles (when the domestic vehicles did not even recommend that, unless it was a P-Trac or similar). So, it became apparent that the least expensive vehicle to own and maintain over the very long run was something like a Chevy Caprice with a 305 V-8 (rear wheel drive, rugged and reliable engine--all known technology that anybody could generally work on and maintain pretty easy, which was also highly durable). They certainly didn't have any $80.00 choke pull-offs as some of the imports and domestic 4-cyls did. So . . . what you generally saved on fuel with an import should have been put in a savings fund for when it might break and cost to get it fixed or for general maintenance, as you drove around in a smaller car with less space to carry people or "stuff" in. In reality, the costs would have been pretty much equal, I suspect.





Great post, but I think the reason why domestics have such a bad rap is internal to what you were saying...

If 36k diff fluid changes are required on foreign vehicles, why arent they so on a domestic? I think that the number one reason why domestics dont last as well is that the users hold their domestic vehicles to a lesser maintenance standard, which causes them to not last as long...

Many a person will take their vehicle into the toyota or honda dealer and not bat an eyelash at their required 24, 36, 48k, etc. service... at the same time, people think theyre gtting ripped off when their domestic vehicle dealer tells them that their diff fluid or trans fluid should be changed 3yr/36k.

People hold foreign and domestic vehicles to different standards. Say all you want about plastic dashes, generic switchgear, etc for domestic cars, they may be real criteria upon which to judge... but unless there is true apples to apples maintenance, which I propose to be NOT the case, then there cannot be an argument in the longevity category...

Great post!

JMH
 
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[If 36k diff fluid changes are required on foreign vehicles, why arent they so on a domestic?




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I got the diff fluid changed on my 1988 Mustang GT at about 160K. I have no idea if it had ever been changed before. It seems to be OK though.

Neither Ford nor Saab specify a maintenance interval for manual transmission fluid. Regardless, I change it every 60K or so.

I've also changed power steering fluid, usually by pumping out the contents of the reservior and refilling it several times.
 
Great post, but I think the reason why domestics have such a bad rap is internal to what you were saying...

If 36k diff fluid changes are required on foreign vehicles, why arent they so on a domestic? I think that the number one reason why domestics dont last as well is that the users hold their domestic vehicles to a lesser maintenance standard, which causes them to not last as long...

Many a person will take their vehicle into the toyota or honda dealer and not bat an eyelash at their required 24, 36, 48k, etc. service... at the same time, people think theyre gtting ripped off when their domestic vehicle dealer tells them that their diff fluid or trans fluid should be changed 3yr/36k.

People hold foreign and domestic vehicles to different standards. Say all you want about plastic dashes, generic switchgear, etc for domestic cars, they may be real criteria upon which to judge... but unless there is true apples to apples maintenance, which I propose to be NOT the case, then there cannot be an argument in the longevity category...

Great post!

JMH



The euro cars are doing very long intervals now, much more so than the Americans. BMW for example says ~15k oil change intervals and change the auto tranny fluid at 100k miles. It's basically to suit there massive leasing and "free" maintenance.

The bad rap American cars get is there evolution is at a snail's pace, surely they should be reliable since they tend to use the same engines, drivetrains, etc. for a long period of time. I just read an article where Bob Lutz said "We need to be not just good enough to compete but be ahead of the competition." I couldn't help but laugh, when were they good enough?? I'm talking about their cars, I know out west anytime I see an American car I can usually be guranteed it's a rental or an out of towner. It truely is embarassing the level their cars are at and the scariest part for the big 3 is that most people 30 and younger could care less for their junk...talk about no future!
 
Yes, but the Euro cars are, at least for oil, using oils that will go the distance.

At the rate at which the oil life monitor has been counting down on my Saab, the oil would be changed at 15K, except that it has a 1-year time limit on the oil so it will likely be changed at perhaps 9K instead. The Saab requires an oil that meets a certain specification of which only two oils sold in the USA meet. German Castrol and Mobil 1 0W40.

As far as auto tranny fluid at 100K, I do believe GM started specifying those sorts of maintenance intervals a while ago.
 
My Jeep Cherokee 4.0 has 896,xxx miles on it. The thing is falling apart though. The 4.0's shoes will be hard to fill when discontinued next year.
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Friend at work has a 1992 Honda Civic hatchback (Canadian) with 450 000 KILOMETRES on it. Still going strong, needed a new clutch at 400 000 KM. I will admit - mostly highway driving.
 
Its not hard to put 400+ km on any vehicle when you drive on the highway for 40 mins each way to work. We have done it with many vehicles, all domestics.
 
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My Jeep Cherokee 4.0 has 896,xxx miles on it. The thing is falling apart though. The 4.0's shoes will be hard to fill when discontinued next year.
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got pics?
 


(it's Saab)
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I don't think 3 head gaskets and prob 3 rebuilt heads is a wonder on gas engines that will last.

I'd be more impressed if the engine was never opened like the guy with the Chev truck who made it to 1 million. His engine was stock and never worked on as far as torn down.

I've done 2 head gaskets jobs and put rebuilt heads on the engine the first time.

New Valve guides, Stem seals, Valve job and possible valves makes things last longer.

Take care, Bill
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I don't drive that much (about 25,000km/15000ish miles a year) so, the farthest any car I've owned has gone is 275,000 km. That car was a 1986 Mercury Lynx. It stopped prematurely when an "Old Man in Hat" saw a red light as green and tried to skewer -like a giant kabob- the "Lynky's" drivers door, with his 400cid-driven missile. Had this incident not occurred I'm sure the engine would have hummed along, with only basic maintenance, to 300,000 miles. But, the problem with a 500,000 mile scenario isn't the engine, it's the body. The Lynx wouldn't have made it 500,000 miles without at least one $5,000-6,000 body job.
At my current rate of accumulation it would take 33.3 years to hit 500,000 miles. Although several thousand people hit the 500,000 mile mark every year in North America, they’d have to be less then 1% of the driving population.

The simple fact is, that most car bodies can't do 500,000 miles, so generally the engine question is moot.
 
No votes for the GM 5.3 liter.
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My 02 Suburban has 84K on it right now, and I'm hoping for at least 300K.
 
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