Garage workbench

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Quattro Pete

Quattro Pete

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I decided I want a no frills sturdy table in the garage. I want to be able to mount a 4"-5" vise to it without the thing tipping over. Other than that, I just want a place to spread out my tools and stuff while I'm working on something, as opposed to keeping it all on the floor as I do today.

I saw this Craftsman one at Sears last night, and it looked rather decent - the butcher block seemed rather solid and it has no support bar up front, so it'll allow me to store stuff underneath it relatively easily, but may detract from its sturdiness somewhat, although I am not planning to keep anything very heavy on top of it.

It's a bit long (8 feet), but I have the space to accommodate it.

What do you think of this one? Any other ones I should look at that may be just as good but cost less?
 
I have an old slab exterior door as a bench top, add a few 2x4's for legs and bracing in some triangle configurations and its solid enough that it would probably go through the floor in my shed before it failed.
I don't like the lack of cross bracing on the table in your link but it could be added easily enough. Or just bolt the top to the wall with some brackets.
 
That one looks good, there are other pre-fab benches you can buy, I know Harbor Freight sells some metal and some wooden benches. I built my own work bench out of 2x4's and used 3 pieces of heavy 2x10's cut to length to make the top. I also added a center 2x4 between the bottom support 2x4's and nailed a piece of 3/8" plywood across it for a shelf. For the 4 legs of my bench I used 2 2x4's cut to exact length and nailed together, one set at each corner. My work bench is heavy, it is very solid and sturdy enough you could rebuild transmissions on it if you wanted to. I think I paid about $80.00 total for all the lumber, nails, screws and glue I used to build it. It was a very fun and rewarding project I did on a Saturday afternoon.
 
Originally Posted By: TooManyWheels

Also, again assuming you want to do any woodfabbing, Northern Tools has this interesting leg kit.


I got this kit from Amazon (it's cheaper). Plan to build it next week. It comes with all the screws and necessary hardware. Made by Blitz, makers of the Rhino ramps.
 
I got two of the cheapest kitchen lower cabinets (all particle board, no laminate), and use one on each end. They provide good support and hold stuff in the drawers. I then got about 6 or 7 2x6s, cut about 1/8" of an inch off each side (so there was no rounded edge) and glued them all together using 2 or 3 pipe clamps. I have moved it a few times. Still strong like bear.

My Dad made one in the 1950s of 2x4s where the 4" dimension was vertical. Could have driven a truck on it.
 
Thanks. That is an interesting kit. It'd let me make a 2x6 bench which would be an even better fit for me. Assuming I get a 1" thick particle board for the top shelf, I should be able to screw a vise to it, right?
 
You wouldn't want particle board for anything workbench related. Three quarter inch plywood is the thing, possibly even two layers if the supports are sparse. As for attaching the vise, you would probably want to bolt "through", not "to".
 
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From looking at the design of the leg to shelf junction, I'm guessing it would be stable. BigMike, the poster who has it in his posession might think differently, though.

If you look at the second page of the customer supplied images on Northern's sight, it looks like the very last one has either no shelf, or the shelf placed very high. He also has a vice mounted, so it might well be suitable for your needs.
 
Thanks.

A follow-up question: does the type of plywood matter? Should I get the more expensive birch one or will any of them do?
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Thanks.

A follow-up question: does the type of plywood matter? Should I get the more expensive birch one or will any of them do?


Ikea has some very inexpensive Butcher Block tops, that would work good for a bench top.
 
The problem with IKEA is that they won't be able to cut it down to size for me, and I don't have any tools at home to do it myself, hence I'll go with a place like HD where they'll do it for me.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Thanks.

A follow-up question: does the type of plywood matter? Should I get the more expensive birch one or will any of them do?


My approach would be to, first - buy exterior grade, second - buy the cheapest, worst surface that is acceptable to you, knowing that you will get it gouged, soiled, oiled, etc. In other words, not interior/cabinet grade.

If you do some googling on "workbench ideas", you will find a lot of ideas on tops and finishes (over and above the plywood). Many people seal their tops with urethane, others put a layer of galvanized metal on them, some a piece of sacrificial masonite.

Also, re stability - Perhaps it would be possible to run a pair of angle braces from the middle of the rear legs to the rear cross piece. If that could be done, it would be stronger than the left-out shelf would have been.
 
Polyurethane would be a better coating than lacquer. Lacquer is not very solvent resistant.

I build my workbenches with CDX plywood, or a solid door slab, covered with heavy duty laminate (i.e. Formica, Wilsonart).
 
motorcity,
Tell me more about the IKEA butcher blocks. How big?

Tom Slick,
Tell me more about a "solid door slab." What is it made of?
 
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Pete,

I'd go with plywood, at least 1/2" but less than 1" because that's the thickness limit of the kit. You'll find the compromise is 23/32nd.

You could coat it with polyurethane, which is what I recommend doing. 3 coats would be more than sufficient. You can buy stain with urethane in it (Polyshade), if you'd like to stain it in the same step. You might top coat it with spar urethane, which is exterior grade. I usually do 3 coats of polyshade and 1 or 2 coats of spar urethane on most of my projects that are going to take some abuse.

I'm in the process of building mine. The top has a support brace (2x4) that spans diagonally under the plywood. For a 6'x2' bench, you'll need (7) 2x4s and 3 6'x2' pieces of plywood. They have a cut list on their site.

You can skip the middle shelf if you want. I recommend keeping the bracing 2x4s on 3 sides (open in the front), if you decide to do this though.

For my bench, I've decided to go with sanded plywood and premium 2x4s. This will save me some work when I get to sanding and staining it later. For an extra $10 you could use birch or extra $5 SandePly hardwood, which is close to cabinet grade.
 
Originally Posted By: j_mac
motorcity,
Tell me more about the IKEA butcher blocks. How big?

Tom Slick,
Tell me more about a "solid door slab." What is it made of?


I'd go to Home Depot and buy a plain/smooth, solid, (as opposed to hollow core) blank (slab) door with no holes bored and not "pre-hung". They are usually faced with something like masonite, has hardwood around the edges and a particle board core.
example:
http://www.homedepot.com/Doors-Windows-E...catalogId=10053
 
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