Garage door insulation

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Mar 21, 2004
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Near the beach in Delaware
I have your typical lightweight garage door and would like to insulate it. It's got the sections that one could put some insulation in. In my case trying to insulate to keep garage warmer.

Some of the insulation seems to be a thin layer of foam and I guess depends upon an air gap for the R-value. I see some fiberglass also.

Need to worry about adding too much weight to the door.
 
Did mine last year and I used this:


Considered this but the reviews were lousy and the kit seemed to add too much weight on the doors:


Primary issue I was trying to solve was my doors were southwest facing and afternoon sun in the summer was baking them. Not a great R value but it helped the heat a lot. Seems to provide OK protection in the winter but my garage is not fully insulated. Be sure to buy a roll of T-Rex tape too.
 
WOW Great thread. I WAS just thinking this yesterday. Not kidding. BITOG for the win!

Otherwise my 2 door shop is VERY well insulated. I have some nice 240V heaters that have not driven the electric bill up too much (I am not living out there. Heat as needed)

ODDLY even without the two plastic roll ups being insulated, I heat the place from say 8AM to 10AM. Shut all down, go in house, come back to the shop at 3PM and it's still not freezing yet in there.
 
Two layers R19 in the attic, one layer runs east / west, second layer runs north / south…
Watch out for the vents under the roof soffits, do not block.
Use a rafter baffle to allow airflow

Remember, there is 15” wide, run in walls, and 24” wide, run in attics.
There is also kraft faced, to keep moisture in, put the paper to the living space, and unfaced…
Use the unfaced as the second layer…

I have used foam board on garage doors a long time ago…
 
I used the pink foam on mine. Looked a little haphazard but it worked fine for about a year until my wife backed her new car into the garage door. The new replacement came insulated from the factory. 😁
 
Be careful with the pink blanket insulation and even some of the foam panels. Their weight can be an issue. My neighbor is a garage door tech and warned me against this, so I ended up using the foil "sheets". This is the stuff I used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058W5M08/. It helps some but not as much as I was hoping. Of course, the garage isn't heated except for "leakage" from the house (garage is attached).
 
Be careful with the pink blanket insulation and even some of the foam panels. Their weight can be an issue. My neighbor is a garage door tech and warned me against this, so I ended up using the foil "sheets". This is the stuff I used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058W5M08/. It helps some but not as much as I was hoping. Of course, the garage isn't heated except for "leakage" from the house (garage is attached).
I wonder if it's the weight of the new from the box fiberglass panels or after they absorbed some water vapor?
 
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I bought 4x8 sheets of 5/8” cheap styrofoam from HD and cut the panels myself. Each panel has two pieces doubled up. The stuff looks similar to the R-Tech, white styrofoam with a translucent blue plastic film that has slowly peeled off over the past 18 years. I actually used a white glue fillet to hold in place. It didn’t work great but if cut corrrectly, the panels don’t fall out. We see overnight temps usually in the teens in Winter and this quick fix keeps the garage above freezing. The dents are from my rear hatch.
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Reflectix.
Did not know about this, thanks!

 
The other thing I noticed is the loose or worn rollers allow the door to move in or out about 1/2". So not tight to the seal and frame? I can see daylight if the door has the maximum 1/2" gap.
 
I have your typical lightweight garage door and would like to insulate it. It's got the sections that one could put some insulation in. In my case trying to insulate to keep garage warmer.

Some of the insulation seems to be a thin layer of foam and I guess depends upon an air gap for the R-value. I see some fiberglass also.

Need to worry about adding too much weight to the door.
I have been thinking about this for a year or two now and in the same dilemma.
Im thinking I am going to go with the Owens Corning garage door kits. I have two doors to do. I don't see how it can add too much weight.
Yeah, my doors are the "newer" light weight production builder type doors but they do have 1/2 hp Liftmaster door openers, I doubt that would be an issue for them, in fact the light weight doors would be a benefit. After all Owens markets this product based on an average home.

I thought of the foam panels too, even bought foam at one time to cut my own but I doubt I would do it as good as something pre-made.
Im also a believer in no replacement for displacement and know the r-factor is real and higher in the fiberglass Owens.
Many foam products can be a fire hazard/ I know the Owens Corning is made fire resistant.
 
Reflective bubble wrap would be my pick, foam second. Be sure to check for door balance by testing your door, if it doesn’t stay open at the mid-point when you let go(it closes or goes all the way up), you have weak springs.
 
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