fx730v engine in Toro Zero turn

[va_life]

Hi,

I have this engine in my zero turn. I am noticing what appears to be high consumption (like half a quart every few hours or so) with whatever the dealer filled it with.

It now has 29 hours on it. I want to cover myself from warranty issues in case this continues to be a real oil burner. The operator's manual goes on to state that 10-40w is the preferred engine oil and that I can use 20w-50 to reduce consumption. I mean this is a pretty universal understanding. However, if the oil burning persists (there is no visual smoke) and the dealer says that I must use 20w-50 do I have to do that or can I stand my ground and say that I shouldn't have to.

Also, the manual does not preclude the use of Synthetic should I wish to use it (and I would really like to) but I would imagine that using a good quality dino oil is my best bet to support my argument?

I don't want to have to buy pricey "Toro" or "Kawasaki" oil either as per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and don't think that I need to based on that.

What oil would you recommend?

Do I have to cave to the dealer and run 20w-50 if that is what they want me to do? I don't think I should have to with such a young engine but I wouldn't be surprised if they asked me to.

Any other thoughts?

Everyone talked me into this Kawasaki Engine for reliability and the ZT cost me nearly 2k more over the Toro engine but now I am pretty sure I wasted my money.

Thanks.

 

[Dutchy491]

So there’s 29 hours on the machine or on the oil? Could you clarify this. If it’s a new machine, why wasn’t the oil and filter changed yet? General practice is an early change because of the break-in process. Check your manual and see what it says. However, I’d buy factory oil and filter, to prevent a warranty issue, service it and monitor it for the recommended interval…
ps, are you checking the oil level as prescribed? Remove and wipe dipstick clean. Reinsert and turn backwards until it drops into the thread. Remove and check the oil line. Best oil level check is hot. Cold check is simply to verify oil in the engine.

 

[va_life]

So there’s 29 hours on the machine or on the oil? Could you clarify this. If it’s a new machine, why wasn’t the oil and filter changed yet? General practice is an early change because of the break-in process. Check your manual and see what it says. However, I’d buy factory oil and filter, to prevent a warranty issue, service it and monitor it for the recommended interval…
ps, are you checking the oil level as prescribed? Remove and wipe dipstick clean. Reinsert and turn backwards until it drops into the thread. Remove and check the oil line. Best oil level check is hot. Cold check is simply to verify oil in the engine.

I understand that oil/filter should traditionally be changed quickly due to break in but the the manual specifies 100 hours for the Kawasaki and 5 hours for the Toro.

I am pretty sure that the oil level check procedure is different in my manual but I can check.

On the dipstick tube it says not to turn the dipstick onto the threads for the proper level. Let me check the owner's manual for the full procedure to be sure.

Thanks.

 

[va_life]

Here is the operator's manual procedure for this engine/mower.

 

[va_life]

As you can see, this engine/ZT combo requires the oil to be checked cold. The illustration and the label on the dipstick require level to be checked without threading the cap/dipstick combination.

Thanks.

 

[meep]

You could mention it to the dealer, but idk if it’s done breaking in yet. Kawasaki makes good engines, and air cooled engines can’t have the same precision as water cooled. I’d probably just run it and keep an eye on it.

 

[MParr]

Go ahead and change the oil and filter. Use a Kawasaki oil filter and try a 20W50 oil. Monitor the consumption.
Keep notes on the maintenance and consumption.
Change again at 100 hours or yearly, whichever comes first.

 

[va_life]

Thanks all. This unit did spend a good amount of it's life under dealer control as well for non engine related issues so even if I were required to change it at "x" interval I didn't have it in my possession for the first 6 hours or so.

 

[MParr]

Thanks all. This unit did spend a good amount of it's life under dealer control as well for non engine related issues so even if I were required to change it at "x" interval I didn't have it in my possession for the first 6 hours or so.

Another thing, operate at full throttle.
You could use a Synthetic oil. I don’t think it’s necessary.

 

[va_life]

Another thing, operate at full throttle.
You could use a Synthetic oil. I don’t think it’s necessary.

What happens if we don't. I operate at full throttle but the wife doesn't.

 

[#18FAN]

What happens if we don't. I operate at full throttle but the wife doesn't.

The engine is more efficient and cools it's at wot you always mow with it at wot.

 

[meep]

Mine clearly stated to always run it at full throttle so that the transmissions have full cooling moving over them, while you are cutting or doing any real work. If you are tut-tutting and pulling a cart around the yard here and there, not running a real load, then part throttle is probably just fine.

I would not run a synthetic yet. I would stay with a dino oil to promote continued break-in.

 

[va_life]

The engine is more efficient and cools it's at wot you always mow with it at wot.

Is this the same as having the lap bars all the way forward for top speed or are we talking about the throttle control like rabbit/turtle?

 

[va_life]

Mine clearly stated to always run it at full throttle so that the transmissions have full cooling moving over them.

Thanks..see below post. It's always on rabbit but we don't always run as fast as we can with the lap bars.

 

[meep]

Thanks..see below post. It's always on rabbit but we don't always run as fast as we can with the lap bars.

Oh, that’s fine. Vary the speed as needed and to preference.

 

[MParr]

What happens if we don't. I operate at full throttle but the wife doesn't.

Teach her to run it at full throttle and have her read the operation manual.

 

[MParr]

Is this the same as having the lap bars all the way forward for top speed or are we talking about the throttle control like rabbit/turtle?

Throttle control. Full Rabbit.
The lap bars control the ground speed.

 

[football]

Run 20W50 for the first 100 hours then switch to synthetic 15W50 after that.

 

[userfriendly]

I have the same 726cc Kawasaki engine in my JD X320. 20w50 motorcycle oil in it now, was 10w40 before and 15w40 before that.
Most owners use a 3614 filter. If there’s lots of room use a 3600, ph16 or ph8.

 

[varmint]

When I bought my snapper, first oil change per Kaw. manual was 8 hrs. I used Rotella T6 5W40. Engine would use about 1/2 oz.
per hour. After first year ( 82 hrs. ) I changed to Mobil 1 15W50. Still uses some oil, about 1oz. every 8 hrs. Air cool engines in hot weather
need a thicker oil and a synthetic will handle high oil temp. better. My oil temp. is 260F + on a 90F day.