Furnace Blower Replacement

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Hey all:


This weekend my wife mentioned to me that she started smelling something hot and some investigation showed that the furnace blower was not running. I went downstairs and turned the blower on to "ON" instead of "AUTO" and heard the motor humming, not turning. This is a belt driven unit. I oiled the two oil ports on the motor and got it spinning again. I attempted to adjust the belt tension and found that the bushing (for lack of a better term) that holds the bearing on the shaft of the squirrel cage is disintegrated. The whole unit still works but is very worn out and will need replaced soon. I took phone pictures of the placard on the electric motor and went to my local builders surplus place and bought a used/good condition/tested direct-drive squirrel cage blower fan that matches the output 'flange' dimensions and is also a 115v 1/2hp. I'm wondering if wiring it up is going to be straightforward and if there are any concerns. Both units have a total of three wires, the new one a red, white and black, and to the best of my knowledge, the old one has three unmarked black wires, one of which is obviously a ground. I'll snap pictures when I get home but does anyone foresee any issues making this change? I think the direct-drive unit should be more reliable and I'm also pretty sure with how gunked up the old one is, it's not pushing nearly enough air.
 
If you are not 100% I would suggest getting an A/C guy in there to replace it. Shock, fire or damage to the rest of your AC is what your are risking. Many bad things can happen if this is done wrong vs saving a few bucks.

Is the blow air output rated the same as your unit? if it is higher or lower you will have some problems with the HVAC since the system is expecting a certain air flow velocity for proper operation.

Three black wires to a motor does not make since. They must be marked somewhere or the motor would not spin connected arbitrarily. A ohm meter between the wires may give some insight.

there should be a system schematic showing the motor connections in the unit somewhere.

There is probable an metal can style AC capacitor. I would replace that if it is old as well. They are cheap off Amazon. Any brand with good reviews Genteq is my brand preference.
 
Can you disconnect your current motor and ohm out the wiring?

The belt-driven one might be quieter.
 
Originally Posted by eljefino
Can you disconnect your current motor and ohm out the wiring?

The belt-driven one might be quieter.


I had tried to check online how I could deduce out which wire was which but came up empty. I may need to look again and see if one wire may have a white stripe or something.

With condition of the belt driven one currently, I think almost anything else could be quieter.
 
like on washing machines + auto engines belts smooth out harmonics, ever hear the shorter lived washing machines clank, thats the abrupt direct drive!!!
 
Absolutely change out the starter capacitor/s. Blower motor and fan induction motor. Just replaced both motors/capacitors on my gas furnance. My wiring for the new blower motor was color coded exactly as the original motor. Sorry can't help w/your black wirings question. If your heat exchanger is old, there's a static pressure test that can be done to see if there's are any cracks/leaks. This is what I learned from my research regarding HVAC's. Thankfully, my 15 yr. old RHEEM is now working perfectly. Good Luck!
 
First and foremost, check the electrical source aka the electrical wiring that goes into the unit.
Verify that there is electricity before doing anything else in the unit.

Sometimes, it is just a breaker bar goes off or a burnt light switch or loose electrical wires, etc.

If you have not done so.
 
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