Fully synth or just normal mineral

4WD

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The problem is with ambient temperature 5w wont work in summer maybe i could get away with it in winter but at summer it would evaporate and make the lifters noisy as hell
You will find what you are looking for here … somebody to agree with you. Only they will not be from a motor company or an oil company. There are plenty articles written about oil quaility over just plain thick in high temperatures
If what you stated is a concern, might want to shop based on Noack …
 

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No reason not to use a 15W-50 if synthetic. A 120+ VI Group III, IV or V Base is naturally going to have a wider multigrade viscosity spread than a 70 VI Group I or 100 VI Group II or blend.
 

Espada

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No reason not to use a 15W-50 if synthetic. A 120+ VI Group III, IV or V Base is naturally going to have a wider multigrade viscosity spread than a 70 VI Group I or 100 VI Group II or blend.
there are 2 options for 15w50 in Egypt, 1st is mineral oil 2nd is semi-synth we don't have much options for synth oils in the heavy weight oils but Amsoil all of the other brands start with 5w for fully synth oils
 
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another idea i have is to use 10w60 at summer to provide that extra protection from long exposure to high RPM and 10w40 at winter
Stick with 15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40, 20W-50, 25W-50, or 25W-60. They will have the thickest base oil and least amount of VII. 10W-60 is one of the worst SAE viscosity grades, as it has too much VII. You don't want 10W-40 in the warm Egyptian winter either, as it has more VII and a thinner base oil than that of 15W-40. Between 20W-50 and 15W-40, typically either is fine. An HDEO 15W-40 will usually be of higher quality than a PCMO 15W-40—same with 20W-50. Stick with name brands.

VII and HTFS table of selected oils
 
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Espada

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Stick with 15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40, 20W-50, 25W-50, or 25W-60. They will have the thickest base oil and least amount of VII. 10W-60 is one of the worst SAE viscosity grades, as it has too much VII. You don't want 10W-40 in the warm Egyptian winter either, as it has more VII and a thinner base oil than that of 15W-40. Between 20W-50 and 15W-40, typically either is fine. An HDEO 15W-40 will usually be of higher quality than a PCMO 15W-40—same with 20W-50. Stick with name brands.

VII and HTFS table of selected oils
Sorry for my ignorance but what is PCMO and HDEO ? :) as my 2nd thought was 15w40 or 10w40 as winters are becoming colder than before here in Egypt, it used to be warm all year round not its blazing hot in summer and gets real cold in winter '' Colder than what we are used to ''
 
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Can you list the price per quart of few available oils?

If I wanted to or had to dump a 16093 km (10K miles) oil after 4828 km (3K miles), the price would be near the top of my list. At 4000 km oci, you would hope or think most brand name oils on the market should handle the job. Even olive oil should last that long. lol
No? :unsure:
 

Espada

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Can you list the price per quart of few available oils?

If I wanted to or had to dump a 16093 km (10K miles) oil after 4828 km (3K miles), the price would be near the top of my list. At 4000 km oci, you would hope or think most brand name oils on the market should handle the job. Even olive oil should last that long. lol
No? :unsure:

Mannol safari full mineral oil 20w50 SN rated = 280 EGP per 4 liters ( 4k KM change )
Motul 2000 full mineral oil 20W50 SL rated = 280 EGP per 4 liters ( 4k KM change )
Local brand ( Tawon oils ) full mineral oil SL rated = 205 EGP per 4 liters ( 4k KM change )
Amsoil Premium protection 20w50 = 680 EGP per 4 liters ( 10k KM change )
 
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Mannol safari full mineral oil 20w50 SN rated = 280 EGP per 4 liters ( 4k KM change )
Motul 2000 full mineral oil 20W50 SL rated = 280 EGP per 4 liters ( 4k KM change )
Local brand ( Tawon oils ) full mineral oil SL rated = 205 EGP per 4 liters ( 4k KM change )
Amsoil Premium protection 20w50 = 680 EGP per 4 liters ( 10k KM change )

Are the 4000 km and 10000 km change intervals something you decided to do or is it in the owner's manual or the recommendation for your new engine? Curious what your owner's manual recommend. I am sure they take into account the heat & dust in your area.
 
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Sorry for my ignorance but what is PCMO and HDEO ? :) as my 2nd thought was 15w40 or 10w40 as winters are becoming colder than before here in Egypt, it used to be warm all year round not its blazing hot in summer and gets real cold in winter '' Colder than what we are used to ''

PCMO: petroleum car motor oil. For gasoline powered vehicles.

HDEO: heavy-duty enginge oil (usually for diesel engines but many are also approved for gasoline powered vehicles).
 

Espada

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Are the 4000 km and 10000 km change intervals something you decided to do or is it in the owner's manual or the recommendation for your new engine? Curious what your owner's manual recommend. I am sure they take into account the heat & dust in your area.
As per the manual and the oil manufacturer, Amsoil distributor in Egypt recommends 15k interval but i wont go that far
 
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i do change the air filter and fuel filter every 10k to 15k KM maximum shell and castrol here are Egyptian made and filled and both suck imported oils are much better than the local ones we have here '' Mobil, Shell, Castrol '' we have imported oils like Motul, Mannol, Amsoil, Liqui moly all of the imported brands are much better than the ones made locally here

just read some of your previous posts more carefully ...

If Mobil, Shell and Castrol are made locally and available and they have their names on the bottles and meet a certain spec then how could they "suck"?
don't limit yourself unless you have some insider info or data to back it up and not based on what your mechanic and/or neighbor says.

You are cornering yourself into dino vs. Amsoil and I think you mentioned that money is no object and you want the best ... In that case, your choice is very clear.

Having said that, Amsoil is 2.4x the price of dino so if you go 2.4x4000 (9600 km) plus you save on a filter and labor, you will still be ahead. Cut that (9600 km) to 8000 (almost half of amsoil recommendation) and everyone should be happy and you should break even ... I would take 8000 km with Amsoil over 4000 km with dino anywhere on the planet. :)
 

Espada

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just read some of your previous posts more carefully ...

If Mobil, Shell and Castrol are made locally and available and they have their names on the bottles and meet a certain spec then how could they "suck"?
don't limit yourself unless you have some insider info or data to back it up and not based on what your mechanic and/or neighbor says.

You are cornering yourself into dino vs. Amsoil and I think you mentioned that money is no object and you want the best ... In that case, your choice is very clear.

Having said that, Amsoil is 2.4x the price of dino so if you go 2.4x4000 (9600 km) plus you save on a filter and labor, you will still be ahead. Cut that (9600 km) to 8000 (almost half of amsoil recommendation) and everyone should be happy and you should break even ... I would take 8000 km with Amsoil over 4000 km with dino anywhere on the planet. :)
I have owned the car for 9 years now and tried every local made oil and when it comes to castrol they make 2 options for my car 20w50 SG high mileage or 20w50 SL and they both suck equally due to no quality control in Egypt and they follow pricing technique of making the product pricer than it should be to give the illusion its a good product same goes for mobil they make a very pricy mineral oil for 15w50 full mineral oil is priced at 365 EGP as for Shell sadly its the most brand i used to like and use but over the years alot of fake products came to the market carrying Shell's name so either i have to search for a trusted source which might be far or order online which might take time " i do use Shell's 20w50 high mileage oil whenever i get my hands on authentic one " but for my new engine i wanna use the more quality controled oils aka imported oils as quality is a big issue here in Egypt whatever is made locally is never made with high quality as for mobil i am not paying for their marketing campaign or brand name i want a good oil not heavily marketed oil
 
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i have changed my motor from 1300cc to 1500cc as my old engine was done for '' a Mitsubishi lancer 1998 '' the mechanic used Mannol safari 20w50 SN rated mineral oil '' i live in Egypt temp never goes below 10 Celsius and at summer it reaches over 40 Celsius '' for the 1st 1000KM to help clean and test the new engine and it was fine then changed again with the same oil and recommended to change it every 4000KM as our roads are dusty and heavily crowded, i wanna shoot for extra protection i want the best oil i could put into the car i wanna try full synth oil and the only full synth oil that comes in that 20w50 grade is Amsoil premium protection, now the question is should i change for Amsoil and extend the drain interval to 10000KM will it give more protection to the engine component and better flow ? my summer driving is mostly traveling for long long distances on a high RPM while mostly at winter its normal driving, is the change worth the money that will be spent ?
20w50 or 15w40 dino would be fine. Just change frequently and use a quality filter.
 

4WD

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PCMO: petroleum car motor oil. For gasoline powered vehicles.

HDEO: heavy-duty enginge oil (usually for diesel engines but many are also approved for gasoline powered vehicles).
Think it’s passenger car but companies might call it PVL (passenger vehicle lubricants)
IMO, one of the improvements as Grp1 starts to fade away has been 15w40. Delvac can use a couple grades of EHC etc.
A Noack of 10 is decent for a $12/gallon lube.
 
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Sorry for my ignorance but what is PCMO and HDEO ? :) as my 2nd thought was 15w40 or 10w40 as winters are becoming colder than before here in Egypt, it used to be warm all year round not its blazing hot in summer and gets real cold in winter '' Colder than what we are used to ''
Passenger car motor oil (API S* spark ignition categories) and heavy-duty (commercial diesel truck) engine oil (API C* compression ignition categories).

That's basically the same climate as here in Southern California, with coldest nighttime temperatures in the winter around 5 °C (41 °F). 20W-XX is definitely fine at temperatures above freezing. 25W-XX would work, too.

You can use synthetic, but it could be a waste of money, especially with short oil-change intervals. I am sure you have quality brand-name mineral oil available there. As I said you may want to go with a brand-name HDEO, especially if you're concerned about counterfeit oil. I can't imagine they are selling counterfeit brand-name HDEO.

You have a plethora choices there, perhaps more than what we have here. 5-liter jug of Shell Rimula R3 X 20W-50 is selling for only 260 Egyptian pounds, which is $16.

 

Espada

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Passenger car motor oil (API S* spark ignition categories) and heavy-duty (commercial diesel truck) engine oil (API C* compression ignition categories).

That's basically the same climate as here in Southern California, with coldest nighttime temperatures in the winter around 5 °C (41 °F). 20W-XX is definitely fine at temperatures above freezing. 25W-XX would work, too.

You can use synthetic, but it could be a waste of money, especially with short oil-change intervals. I am sure you have quality brand-name mineral oil available there. As I said you may want to go with a brand-name HDEO, especially if you're concerned about counterfeit oil. I can't imagine they are selling counterfeit brand-name HDEO.

You have a plethora choices there, perhaps more than what we have here. 5-liter jug of Shell Rimula R3 X 20W-50 is selling for only 260 Egyptian pounds, which is $16.

I can use diesel oil in a gasoline car? o_O i mean those oils are diesel oils not for gasoline
 
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I can use diesel oil in a gasoline car? o_O i mean those oils are diesel oils not for gasoline
Now, you've learned something on BITOG. It would definitely work. Shell Rimula R3 X 20W-50 is a full-SAPS oil though, and the main issue is that it may not be the best choice for newer cars due to emission-system protection issues, certainly not for a diesel engine equipped with a particulate filter. For an old engine, it's more than OK. Some HDEO are dual-rated for gasoline engines, such as CJ-4/SM, CK-4/SN, etc., and you can have peace of mind using them in a gasoline engine.

For example Mobil Delvac MX III 20W-50 is a similar oil. Even though it's not dual-rated, the spec sheet explicitly mentions gasoline engines:


You can also get it for very cheap:


In any case you have a plethora of choices there, and use whatever you want. Fill with Mobil 1 if money is not an issue.
 
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I'll also confirm the suitability of diesel oils in older gasoline cars.

If you can afford Amsoil, then by all means it's a great choice, but I suspect it is very costly in Egypt and not necessary for good protection. Can you get brands like Castrol, Shell, Mobile, Motul or Total? Any SAE or Euro spec oil will give good protection. In a very dusty area, a good conventional oil that gets changed more often is likely to be better than an expensive synthetic oil that stays in service longer.

As you are aware, what will kill an engine faster than anything is particulate ingestion and overheating. I would focus my efforts on these areas.

As for the viscosity requirements, if your motor has 1.5 bars of pressure at an idle and 3 or more bars at speed in all temperatures, then it's thick enough. If 10w40 can maintain that much pressure, then there is no benefit to going thicker. There are places in the USA where temperatures are 40C very often and nearly all modern cars still use oil ranging from 0w20 to 5w30 weight oil without any negative effect.
 
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SWS

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My thoughts / suggestions based on your environmental conditions, driving style and stated desire for quality & robustness, with cost-not-a-factor:

-> Use a full synthetic like Mobil1 or Mobil1 EP.

-> I don’t know what viscosity to suggest.
Maybe it does not matter that much (?) with
full synthetic. Try some middle grades such
as 5W-30 or 10W-30 and decide from there.

-> Find an oil you can find & buy easily.
You will probably get tired of special-ordering,
for example.... and what you can special-order
now may not be available easily in the future.
You don’t want that inconvenience.
If Mobil1 is available easily from several
locations, then there is a good solution.

-> Change the oil & filter as often as you like.
If you change it yourself, you will gain
a sense of when to change it based on your
environment & recent driving history.
I think you can already determine when oil is
worn-out or excessively dirty based on
your experience with counterfeit oils.

-> As stated previously, check air filter -and-
all intake air tubing & clamps for leaks.
A wise person on this site said,
“The best Oil Filter is a good Air Filter.”
 
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